What OBD code for disabling handbrake for rear brake change?

[luke94]

Looking to change the rear pads but can’t find a tonne of info on servicing it myself. Anyone able to offer advice?

[ Moderator: "ODB" -> "OBD code", presuming you mean a code to send via the On Board Diagnostic port. ]

 

[Jomarkh]

What sort of milage has it done as it is unusual for the rear discs to fail due to Kers braking?

 

[kevin ellard]

Looking to change the rear pads but can’t find a tonne of info on servicing it myself. Anyone able to offer advice?

I wouldn't. There have been some horror stories of the callipers not being wound back properly and the electronic braking system failing. I think it is one of the jobs that I'd get a main dealer to do (although I'd also trust Cleverly's to do it).

 

[Gomev]

I wouldn't. There have been some horror stories of the callipers not being wound back properly and the electronic braking system failing. I think it is one of the jobs that I'd get a main dealer to do (although I'd also trust Cleverly's to do it).

* Cleevely

 

[luke94]

What sort of milage has it done as it is unusual for the rear discs to fail due to Kers braking?

25k miles - back brakes are screeching worse than the mother in-law

I wouldn't. There have been some horror stories of the callipers not being wound back properly and the electronic braking system failing. I think it is one of the jobs that I'd get a main dealer to do (although I'd also trust Cleverly's to do it).

That takes away the cheapness of the EV - shame, I’ll bite the bullet and pay the stealers.

 

[Lovemyev]

25k miles - back brakes are screeching worse than the mother in-law

Extremely unlikely that the pads are worn out given the milage you have covered.
It just needs a brake service / clean contact areas and then brake lub applied to the ears of pads and the mating surfaces of the callipers, you know, the lub the factory never installs .
Just be a little guarded here, if the dealer gets their hands on that job, they don’t use the opportunity to whack you to replace the pads and discs, which is going to be a very expensive job ( £900.00 ish ).
Just a thought, If you intended to remove the original pads in the same locations, then why the need to push back the pistons ?.
Unless you are fitting new pads of course !.
Are you 100% sure the squealing is coming from the rears and not the fronts by any chance ?.
Of course, working on brakes should only be tackled if you have previous experience of this type of work and the necessary tools and skill sets required here .

 

[slmorgan42]

Daft questions have you tried doing a few hard brakes forcing the physical brakes to kick in vs kers?

I only ask as I do low millage and just round London. My brakes are always getting surface rust and make noises when I drive it after letting it stand. Normally a few quick brakes cleans them off.

 

[Lovemyev]

Try turning the Regen to the lowest setting once a week and this will help keep the surface rust at bay.

 

[kevin ellard]

Try turning the Regen to the lowest setting once a week and this will help keep the surface rust at bay.

I don't think that setting does what you think it does.
Firm application of the break pedal will definitely work regardless of the KERS setting.

 

[Lovemyev]

If you reduce the Regen strength, then you are required to use more of the friction brakes to reduce the speed of the car.
That is simply how it works.
More Regen means less use of the friction brakes is required.

 

[Pebblefeline]

It isn’t in the 5 though.

Regen settings affect how the slowing affect is applied when the accelerator released

Pressing the brake pedal also increases regen first and then when pressed harder allows the mechanical brake

Having regen in 1 does not mean you will automatically use the brakes.

Brake hard and the brakes will be applied

This is how cleverly explained it to me

 

[Gomev]

It isn’t in the 5 though.

Regen settings affect how the slowing affect is applied when the accelerator released

Pressing the brake pedal also increases regen first and then when pressed harder allows the mechanical brake

Having regen in 1 does not mean you will automatically use the brakes.

Brake hard and the brakes will be applied

This is how cleverly explained it to me

Who's cleverly ?

 

[Pebblefeline]

Typo

Cleevely

 

[dragon2611]

Lightly tapping the brake pedal will regen brake first regardless of the KERS setting, you can see this happening on the power gauge as it goes into the charge/regen portion.

 

[emmrecs]

Lightly tapping the brake pedal will regen brake first regardless of the KERS setting, you can see this happening on the power gauge as it goes into the charge/regen portion.

Agreed, IF you are using ACC.

But if you simply "take your foot off the accelerator" doesn't KERS (at whatever selected level) activate immediately?

Or have I misunderstood? (Perfectly possible!)

 

[Pebblefeline]

Yes it does

Then using the brake increases the kers level until the mechanical brakes are activated

 

[pollenface]

No idea what's under an MG but other electric park brakes I've seen have an actuator which applies pressure to a park brake cable, one would isolate the actuator to release the pressure.

 

[MG Fred]

Electric park brakes can get in the way of removing pads etc, as on my previous cars they will automatically apply the brakes after a few minutes even if the park brake is off and the car turned off. A safety feature I guess. The callipers pushing in when you have removed the pads can be a right pain! The way around it is to unplug the motor on the calliper that is doing the EPB activating. It may trigger an error code if the car is turned on, but hopefully not if still off and replugged in.
At some point I will have a go at stopping the brake squeal on mine by putting some copper grease where it is lacking. DIY is often easier and quicker than a trip to the dealer!

 

[Lovemyev]

The way around it is to unplug the motor on the calliper that is doing the EPB activating

This would be my plan of attack.
It maybe a good idea to disconnect the negative terminal on the 12 volt battery also, as the foot brake pump is electrically powered.
It can not be charged and action the foot brake if it has no 12 volt supply / power surely.

 

[jr1]

Looking to change the rear pads but can’t find a tonne of info on servicing it myself. Anyone able to offer advice?

[ Moderator: "ODB" -> "OBD code", presuming you mean a code to send via the On Board Diagnostic port. ]

If it's similar to the ZSEV it's a very easy job, check my post with photographs on how to do it