Recent content by MickeySw

LFP cells have a very low internal resistance therefore less heat is generated by the current flowing through them. The MG5’s heating circuit is also used to cool the cells while driving, hence cruising will not heat to battery to the 30-40 deg C required for optimal LFP charge rates.

As you have noticed CarScanner doesn’t display all PIDs correctly (CMU min/max voltages, Battery cells' data). I wonder if ‘Battery temperature average’ is to be trusted? It could well be that the OEM MG diagnostic tool shows different values? I see roughly the same slow 40-50kW in winter on...

Sorry, I misunderstood, are you’re saying that after the latest upgrade your NMC battery now thinks the average cell temperature is 10deg lower than actual? That’s obviously very concerning, anyone else experiencing the same issue?

I’m guessing you have LFP cells, if that’s correct, then what you see is as good as it gets, unfortunately.. The MG5 is designed to keep the battery at 10deg C or ambient temperature, whichever is higher while driving. It’s therefore a common misconception that cruising at motorway speeds is...

Afaik LFP SR FL models were never sold in the UK market therefore there doesn't seem to be much 1st hand experience available on this forum. But according to European colleagues LFP charge rates (especially in winter) are disappointing to say the least..

Afaik Pre-FL MG5's were only sold in the UK & Ireland, the rest of Europe got the FL models later on. SR versions were always equipped with LFP batteries, LR stayed NMC.

I think @5teep is referring to the NMC (pre-FL) SR version (49kWh usable) when stating range. If that’s the case, expect less range from LFP models (46kWh) especially in winter. https://ev-database.org/car/1646/MG-MG5-Electric-Standard-Range

You can check charging losses by comparing your wall box power (energy going into the car) vs iSmart/console values (energy going into the HV battery)?

If your battery is really LFP then frequent DC charging should not cause such a low SoH, however leaving it fully charged for an extended period of time (weeks) is known to cause excessive degradation. I gather nobody has managed to increase a low SoH by re-calibrating the BMS on an MG5? The...

How far you get on a full charge is definitely influenced by your right foot, however the ‘shrinking’ of your ‘tank’ due to seasonal changes in battery performance cannot be avoided presently (the future seems brighter though).

It does indeed, but who reads manuals? In order for the heating to work the car needs to be READY, same applies to access the Energy Management tab in FL models, (manually start/stop the charging process)?

I have never felt the need to do ‘forced balancing’ as I trust the BMS to take care of it if required, looks like I was right, after 3 years the min/max difference on our MG5 is just 13mV? Actually there is another ‘theory’ that by deep discharging one can trigger a ‘proper balancing’ which...

Maybe SoH is only changed if there is a significant difference? Another reason to deep discharge is to force ‘proper’ balancing (according to some opinions) any chance you did look at min/max cell voltages after charging/balancing was finished?

Slowing down however, will significantly decrease air resistance by about 27% (velocity squared). Lower drag means less energy required, resulting in an increase in range

Lowering speed is the easiest way to increase range? Try 60mph next time.