Recent content by MickeySw

While EVs are certainly more efficient than ICE cars on a hilly track, they won’t be able to fully recoup the extra energy used to climb??

Reading out the archived fault codes via OBD should give you some pointers..

Might try and do a hard reset (disconnect 12V aux)? If it’s still the same afterwards you could read out the actual fault codes with a bluetooth dongle which could give you some pointers what to do next..

Why both poles?

Same applies to NMC batteries, once SoH hits the mid 90s, degradation seems to slow down significantly?? See also post #30

You may be right, or wrong making that assumption, one way to determine ‘which is which’ is to look at the min/max cell voltages across the whole battery: Battery Cell Min Voltage Battery Cell Max Voltage No, LR has the same setup, LFP might make sense

A MG5 (NMC) battery consist of 6 modules with 16 cells each, making it a 96S1P pack. What CarSanner’s ‘CMU1 to CMU24’ -data actually relates to is therefore anyone’s guess?

Ok, looks like you’re using CarScanner; the app’s ‘CMUXXX’ values don’t make much sense (i.e. a fully charged cell is around 4.2V). What seems to be accurate though are ‘Battery Cell Min/Max Voltage’, what do they read?

That’s sound about right, degradation isn’t linear, it tends to slow down after the initial drop of SoH. Curious what do you get for min/max values?

Standard range FL MG5s sold in France have a LFP battery (46kWh usable) https://ev-database.org/car/1646/MG-MG5-Electric-Standard-Range

You’re probably not far off, not because of your method rather than that’s what one would expect given the particulars. 😉 If you want to know exactly, next time you charge to 100% reset the trip counters, range in ‘Normal’ mode (nor ECO or Sports) displayed is WLTP - degradation, e.g. for LR...

Looks my crystal ball was right (post #29), maybe take a video the next time it happens again??

Peak charge power as per specifications is usually at a cell temperature of around 25 deg C, any lower and your rate will drop..

Absolutely, bigger inverter, larger battery is the way to go (I also use a 5kW inverter with an ex Zoe battery), never looked back.. 3 days backup without much limitation, plus the MG's V2L capacity to recharge the batteries if (localised) outages last longer…

FL relates to the ‘face lift’ model, yours is it’s predecessor although it’s using the same battery system (NMC chemistry) I’m merely quoting the manual which suggests to do a balance charge once a week and a deep discharge (10%-100%) to re-calibrate the BMS (SoH) every couple of months. That...