Recent content by MickeySw

Not on the MG5, it’s spot on..

The CCU is protected by a 150A fuse which will give you on paper about 2000W. When the car is READY, all low voltage power is supplied by HV battery via the CCU , e.g. there is no load on the 12V aux, hence it cannot be ‘flattened’ The alternator on an ICE car has the same functionality as the...

As per that post, the simplest way would be to use a 12V DC 1.5kW sine wave inverter and connect it to the Aux battery terminals. The car needs to be READY before you power an external load as otherwise the 12V battery will deplete rather quickly.

That feature doesn’t work as advertised … better look at it than for it…

It’s not the HV battery you need to worry but the 12V aux, best to put it on a battery maintainer…

Once solid state battery operated EVs are well established (5 years?), you will get ‘old tech’ EVs as cheap as chips and bi-directional DC chargers will be the norm, at least according to my crystal ball 😏….

Probably doesn’t make much sense presently, but when energy providers stop paying for excess solar energy, getting a cheap pre-loved EV and park it outside the house could be cost effective..

Probably not cheap, but there are providers out there, just one example https://wallbox.com/en/quasar-2-bidirectional-ev-charger

small corrections

Can you overlay the average ambient temperature in your area, might make for interesting reading?

Cold month, but slight improvement..

The GOM makes a prediction of range based on past performance, it can therefore only be accurate, if the driving profile doesn’t change. Most EVs transmit SoC on different PIDs on the OBD bus, depending on what it’s used for internally, values may vary slightly. It could well be that the...

I think so, battery capacity fluctuates with seasonal temperatures changes.

LFP cells have a lower internal resistance (vs NMC), the theory is that this results in very little thermal output. Looks like your quick test seems to confirm that…

If all the data you provided is correct, then it looks like you've been sold a pup and your car has a 53kWh SR battery. 55% of (useable) 48 kWh is about 26kWh. The charging process isn't 100% efficient, e.g. you need to supply more energy as seen by your smart meter. The same math for a 61kWh...