Afaik Pre-FL MG5's were only sold in the UK & Ireland, the rest of Europe got the FL models later on. SR versions were always equipped with LFP batteries, LR stayed NMC.
I think @5teep is referring to the NMC (pre-FL) SR version (49kWh usable) when stating range. If that’s the case, expect less range from LFP models (46kWh) especially in winter.
https://ev-database.org/car/1646/MG-MG5-Electric-Standard-Range
You can check charging losses by comparing your wall box power (energy going into the car) vs iSmart/console values (energy going into the HV battery)?
If your battery is really LFP then frequent DC charging should not cause such a low SoH, however leaving it fully charged for an extended period of time (weeks) is known to cause excessive degradation.
I gather nobody has managed to increase a low SoH by re-calibrating the BMS on an MG5?
The...
How far you get on a full charge is definitely influenced by your right foot, however the ‘shrinking’ of your ‘tank’ due to seasonal changes in battery performance cannot be avoided presently (the future seems brighter though).
It does indeed, but who reads manuals?
In order for the heating to work the car needs to be READY, same applies to access the Energy Management tab in FL models, (manually start/stop the charging process)?
I have never felt the need to do ‘forced balancing’ as I trust the BMS to take care of it if required, looks like I was right, after 3 years the min/max difference on our MG5 is just 13mV?
Actually there is another ‘theory’ that by deep discharging one can trigger a ‘proper balancing’ which...
Maybe SoH is only changed if there is a significant difference?
Another reason to deep discharge is to force ‘proper’ balancing (according to some opinions) any chance you did look at min/max cell voltages after charging/balancing was finished?
Slowing down however, will significantly decrease air resistance by about 27% (velocity squared).
Lower drag means less energy required, resulting in an increase in range
Looks like 20min wasn't enough, as stated before, one needs to monitor the battery temperature via OBD to get this right, i.e. have the cells at optimum temperature just as you plug into the rapid charger.
Apparently the MG4 has a better solution for this, you just select a rapid charger from...
Can’t remember if one can monitor battery current on a pre-FL?
If possible, you can check if the heating activates: start the car, take a note of the battery current, manually turn on the battery heater, current should increase by 10-15A
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