Recent content by MickeySw

You may be right, or wrong making that assumption, one way to determine ‘which is which’ is to look at the min/max cell voltages across the whole battery: Battery Cell Min Voltage Battery Cell Max Voltage No, LR has the same setup, LFP might make sense

A MG5 (NMC) battery consist of 6 modules with 16 cells each, making it a 96S1P pack. What CarSanner’s ‘CMU1 to CMU24’ -data actually relates to is therefore anyone’s guess?

Ok, looks like you’re using CarScanner; the app’s ‘CMUXXX’ values don’t make much sense (i.e. a fully charged cell is around 4.2V). What seems to be accurate though are ‘Battery Cell Min/Max Voltage’, what do they read?

That’s sound about right, degradation isn’t linear, it tends to slow down after the initial drop of SoH. Curious what do you get for min/max values?

Standard range FL MG5s sold in France have a LFP battery (46kWh usable) https://ev-database.org/car/1646/MG-MG5-Electric-Standard-Range

You’re probably not far off, not because of your method rather than that’s what one would expect given the particulars. 😉 If you want to know exactly, next time you charge to 100% reset the trip counters, range in ‘Normal’ mode (nor ECO or Sports) displayed is WLTP - degradation, e.g. for LR...

Looks my crystal ball was right (post #29), maybe take a video the next time it happens again??

Peak charge power as per specifications is usually at a cell temperature of around 25 deg C, any lower and your rate will drop..

Absolutely, bigger inverter, larger battery is the way to go (I also use a 5kW inverter with an ex Zoe battery), never looked back.. 3 days backup without much limitation, plus the MG's V2L capacity to recharge the batteries if (localised) outages last longer…

FL relates to the ‘face lift’ model, yours is it’s predecessor although it’s using the same battery system (NMC chemistry) I’m merely quoting the manual which suggests to do a balance charge once a week and a deep discharge (10%-100%) to re-calibrate the BMS (SoH) every couple of months. That...

The MG5 (FL) user manual states the following: “When using the vehicle on a daily basis, it is recommended to fully charge it at least once a week, which is conducive to the health maintenance of the high-voltage battery pack; every 3 months to half a year, a low-power (less than 10% or 1 grid)...

Water (screen wash) in an electric circuit is something you want to address immediately, not wait weeks for a warranty repair appointment?! Contact below for details Post in thread 'MG5 won't turn off' MG5 won't turn off | MG5 EV Forum

The garage most likely has their own DC charger to troubleshoot, it doesn’t use the (faulty?) AC/DC section of the CCU (DC/DC seems to be working) It’s a quick way to determine that issue isn’t caused by the HV battery itself. The car can therefore usually be charged @ any DC rapid station.

To reach max charging rates the battery needs to be at optimum temperature (the fingerprint in most specs states around 25C). Unless ambient temperatures are of that magnitude, it will take a couple of minutes for the cells to warm up when charging. The whole idea of pre-condition a battery...

This is specially true after DC charging sessions where the battery can heat up close to optimal (NMC) temperature and therefore performance. I have also noticed that the SoC decreases slower than usual after you drive off until the battery temp is back to 'normal' levels?