Can’t remember if one can monitor battery current on a pre-FL?
If possible, you can check if the heating activates: start the car, take a note of the battery current, manually turn on the battery heater, current should increase by 10-15A
No surprise
Your battery will most likely be at 10deg when arriving at the Rapid Charger.
At this stage the heating should automatically activate but that doesn’t seem to be happening? The resulting low charge current alone won’t heat the cells significantly, especially if they are LFP..
Pre-heating on an MG5 doesn’t work as one would think, i.e. that I heats the battery and keeps it at that level.
It only starts heating if the cell temperature is below ca 10deg C.
Once it reaches set temperature (around 30degC) the heater simply turns off.
Only when the cells have cooled...
Showing 12.6V after being charged is a good start, question though is how long will it last?
Common consensus is that ‘sulfation’ can cause irreversible damage to a 12V aux with just one deep discharge ( < 10.5V)?!
The main function of the 12V aux is to get the car to start, once in READY (or charging) the DC/DC converts the HV battery voltage to around 14V. (You could actually disconnect the 12V battery, the car will keep running).
As long as the DC/DC is working, the 12V battery is charging.
Once you...
Might have something to do with how accurately one can measure actual fuel consumption in an ICE car?
On the other hand the Coulomb counting method (integrating current over time) used in EV’s is very accurate?
Not of you know what you’re doing 😉, as @siteguru correctly pointed out, it’s a quick way to determine battery degradation without a diagnostic tool, e.g. if the GOM shows 230 instead of 250 miles (WLTP), your SoH has reduced to 92%.
If you do a BMS calibration charge and the range doesn’t...
Nice work, how do you accurately estimate efficiency though?
Ambient temperature is just one factor; others like speed, no of passengers, terrain, weather, driving style etc can have a big effect aslo?
Future range is calculated using the current capacity (SoC x SoH) and rolling average of (past) consumption.
Battery capacity looks OK, therefore the cause of dismal range seems to be efficiency (which does go down a bit in winter).
What was your accumulated miles/kwh before you reset trip...
For ‘peace of mind’ reset trip info when charged to 100%, the car then computes range with a ‘generic consumption’.
Obviously that will change once you start driving.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.