Recent content by MickeySw

14.2V sounds about right, 14.8V seems therefore way too high for a MG4 Too much of a coincidence imho. My best guess is that somehow the low voltage isn't always read correctly which triggers the faults when driving and activates the DC/DC unnecessarily when the car is off? Nice try...

I’m not convinced it’s a glitch: 14.7/8V for a running DC/DC seems high (not sure if that’s normal for a MG4)? A 12V stater battery is never going to show 14.8V unless it’s charging. Maybe accessing the MG4 via iSmart enables the DC/DC, our MG5 certainly doesn’t? If the aux was @ 12.8V when...

When the car is READY all low voltage is provided by the DC/DC converter (around 14V give or take). If you get a 12V battery charge fault at that stage suspect the CCU rather than the aux.

I assume they will blame the 12V battery for not starting the car, but let them explain how the aux can be responsible for shutting down the car when ‘READY’..

My 3phase cable spends most of its time under the bonnet (fits perfectly without a frunk). I probably only needed to use it a handful of times but when I did I the extra phases made a big difference…

Yes, make sure you get a 22kWh rated cable, this will allow you to charge @7kWh on a single phase EVSE

Sounds like the EVSE is only supplying 11kWh on 3phases, therefore you only get about a 1/3 on a single phase cable. However using the same EVSE with a 3phase cable will increase charging speeds 3 fold on a MG5 LR FL..

Beggars can’t be choosers, but curious where would one need to sit in the car waiting to AC charge, unless you don’t have an EVSE at home?

If the heater is not working, how can it get hot @27 deg ambient??

Curious, why would you need the heat on full blast when ambient is >25 deg C??

I just turn off the car before a rapid charge, then wait until charging is in progress before I start it (READY) and turn on the heat? … the chanting of some magic words is optional…. However it doesn’t work the same way when AC charging, you need the app (FL models only) to pre-heat the car...

..or don’t believe everything that’s written in a manual, our MG5 (Trophy) will charge and heat just fine?

It’s a bit better for NMC as their optimum temperature is a few degrees lower. Bottom line is that when driving a MG5 the HV battery is actively cooled to prevent the cells from heating up.

When the car is READY, all low voltage power is provided by the CCU (around 14VDC) which is supplied by the HV battery. The 12V battery is doing nothing at this stage (other than being charged)... Actually you do, EV's require a stable voltage to engage the HV contactors while ICE cars need...

Heating set to cosy 22 C.. Interestingly SoH (95.39%) has gone slightly up this month?