Pink fluid levels

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fourevah

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Lancaster UK
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MG4 Trophy LR
Into my 5th month of ownership now and time for a few questions for the lively community here.

I checked under the frunk and found that the two pink fluid containers are running a min-level.
Is this expected or should I be concerned?
Also, what's the recommended replacement (brand, spec) to top it off?

We are planning a trip to York during Easter break and want to be sure we are motorway ready.

I also see spots of condensation inside the light-bar area in the rear part of the car.
Again, is this something worth a check?

Also, I am used to front-wheel drive with my previous car.
Are there any tips/guidance for the fancy rwd because it seems like there's a sensation of a skid everytime I take a right turn at a specific location.
 
The coolant tanks will be on MIN most of the time when they are cold, the level will rise when the coolant gets warm. As long as it's not below MIN then there's nothing to worry about. Topping it up may cause it to go over the MAX mark when hot.
 
fourevah said:
Into my 5th month of ownership now and time for a few questions for the lively community here.

I checked under the frunk and found that the two pink fluid containers are running a min-level.
Is this expected or should I be concerned?
Also, what's the recommended replacement (brand, spec) to top it off?

We are planning a trip to York during Easter break and want to be sure we are motorway ready.

I also see spots of condensation inside the light-bar area in the rear part of the car.
Again, is this something worth a check?

Also, I am used to front-wheel drive with my previous car.
Are there any tips/guidance for the fancy rwd because it seems like there's a sensation of a skid everytime I take a right turn at a specific location.
Click to expand...
Condensation in the rear light bar is normal. It is a pain but it is a consequence of having such a big enclosed area and minimal air flow. I don't know of a fix.
 
Kithmo said:
The coolant tanks will be on MIN most of the time when they are cold, the level will rise when the coolant gets warm. As long as it's not below MIN then there's nothing to worry about. Topping it up may cause it to go over the MAX mark when hot.
Click to expand...
Yes and by definition, if the level is between min and max then it is fine.
 
tsedge said:
Condensation in the rear light bar is normal. It is a pain but it is a consequence of having such a big enclosed area and minimal air flow. I don't know of a fix.
Click to expand...
My neighbour has a BMW and the headlights have a lot of condensation in them told him to remove the access points for changing the bulbs when not I use this allowed air to circulate and dry out the lens it worked. Have a look to see if there is any access points for changing the l.e.ds. If so remove them and let it bake in the sunshine.
 
For the skidding, if it’s still on the stock tyres, that’s likely the issue. Stock tyres are far from the best for grip. I changed my rears to Michelin Cross Climates and it transformed the car, especially in damp/wet/slippy conditions
 
If you are loosing traction at the same right turn every time it suggests the road surface is the problem, either a drain cover, smooth tarmac or oil spill. Just don't boot it but feed the power in gentle at that junction.

I've just looked at my pink fluid levels. The car hasn't been used since yesterday lunchtime and it's covered in frost. So I guess that means the car is cold. Both levels are on Max and have been ever since I've had the car nearly 2 years ago.

The fluid is Glycol (OAT*) and is available ready mixed form Halfords, Eoro Carparts etc.

*Organic Additive Technology
 
Note that in general the "Min" and "Max" levels are cold levels so if it is cold and at rest on the "Max" then that's fine. It may well head over "Max" when hot but that is also fine.
 
For the rear light just check that your expansion/drain holes are clear>
If you inspect it you will find a couple of drilled holes about 1-2mm diameter.
This is to allow the moisture to evaporate over time, just park with the back end in the sun and it'll dry out.
 
Every car I've had, including the MG4, the coolant level has always been close to max when the car is cold. If it is close to min I would top it up.
 
As others have said:
The coolant should be between the Min and Max during operation, so as long as it is not below the minimum its fine (it will naturally be lower in cold weather than warm weather due to expansion).

Condensation in the rear light bar is normal, especially in cold weather or when close to dew point.

The car has a bit of a hip motion on greasy roads, I find if I just keep my foot in it the traction control sorts it and I get to enjoy a bit of a slide. Had I done that in the Mustang GT I used to own it would have pirouetted quite nicely. Only way for it to not happen is to not use as much power.
 
tsedge said:
On skidding, generally the traction control should prevent this, the MG4 is pretty benign and balanced, but the best way to minimise it is not to accelerate on fast wet bends until the road straightens out.
Click to expand...
Unless you are in the mood to drive it like you stole it ;) There's a left hand corner on the way home from work that I always enjoy flooring it on the apex as the car just steps out a bit and then just goes into warp! (Until I reach the speed limit that is.)
 
BTW rear wheel drive used to be the norm for mass produced cars and is in no way fancy.

Unless you see Austin A35, Cortinas and Sierras as fancy
 
stevegus said:
BTW rear wheel drive used to be the norm for mass produced cars and is in no way fancy.

Unless you see Austin A35, Cortinas and Sierras as fancy
Click to expand...
They’ve become rarer though in the last two decades or so. Most “efficient” ICE cars all had front mounted front wheel drive cars, and pure rear wheel drive has become something normally seen on the more expensive/powerful cars.

The MG4 is one of the cheaper EVs, not necessarily a cheap car, but a cheap EV. If you look at the cheaper end of ICE cars I wouldn’t expect to see many RWD cars. Maybe the GR86/BRZ but again that’s perhaps not really cheap for ICE cars. Not like Hyundai i10 or Peugeot 108.
 
fourevah said:
Also, I am used to front-wheel drive with my previous car.
Are there any tips/guidance for the fancy rwd because it seems like there's a sensation of a skid everytime I take a right turn at a specific location.
Click to expand...
Yes there is a big difference in the way FWD and RWD handle corners.
FWD goes into understeer with more power and oversteer with less power. RWD is the exact opposite.
So if you're used to accelerate a bit coming out of the corner with FWD to stop the car going into a spin. The that very action in RWD will cause that to happen

Driving fast with FWD you go into the corner fast, then ease off to promote oversteer, and control the amount with your right foot.
With a RWD car you go in a bit slower and accelerate as you go round to promote oversteer, and again controlling how much with the right foot
 
I'm so glad the MG4 has a big weighty battery in the middle to balance the weight distribution though, the last time I had a RWD rear engined car I wrote it off. :LOL:
 

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