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My Quadlock was displaying similar behaviour recently. I checked for software updates but none where available so bought a Carlinkit Mini 5.0 and that has worked flawlessly since. It would certainly appear not all dongles are created equally. Forgetting the CarPlay connection from my iPhone and...

I think most things on your wish-list are do-able with one or two work arounds, but none of them are out-of-the-box options on an MG4.

“Not available low charge” is a confusing message though, I’m guessing something got garbled in translation there, similar to the car saying “please plug in charger” in the charging screen no matter what charge you’re at. But @MG Clive is spot on. The car will also flash a warning if you...

I always switch to Adaptive regen on highway/freeways when I use AAC, I feel like in smooths out the slowing down when the car comes upon another car and has to slow down a bit. Might be placebo. Around town I prefer regen 3, I've always been a heavy braker, so heavy regen makes me happy.

I think you may be an update behind on one or some modules (I don’t know what controls the ACC etc) but my car doesn’t slow down in corners, and long press changes the speed by 5km increments, which I believe indicates a different (newer?) version. I would’ve thought most Aussie cars would all...

I saw that one coming before I even hit the “post reply” button haha

This depends on the incline the car is on, in certain cases the car absolutely refuses to move unless you have your seatbelt secured.

I've used it once when the car for whatever reason didn't want to disengage the parking brake whilst in D. And I've used it once to test the emergency function. https://www.mgevs.com/threads/using-the-electronic-parking-brake-or-the-p-button-whilst-driving-at-speed.22669/post-389605

Scary, however I do think you need a neutral “gear” for the car to be able to roll freely, for instance for towing. I can appreciate hindsight is 20/20 but perhaps hitting the brakes is a safer option when something unexpected occurs. I’ve had it happen where I thought the car was in drive and...

From memory the usage tab (one of the tabs in the charge screen) shows the usage graph for the last 50 km, so maybe that’s all the GOM calculates with? It’s still strange it gets optimistic when the total accumulated total resets, because you’d think it would still have access to the last 50km...

It somehow gets very optimistic when it resets, I think my car shows something ridiculous like 485km even though the WLTP is 435km. I think the standard used in China is CLTC which is known to be much more optimistic than WLTP. Again this is just thinking out loud, I don’t have any proof for this.

I don’t know, I suspect the car’s software just goes “I don’t know anything about your driving so here’s what they’ve told me to show you” (WLTP or whatever formula SAIC uses). But that’s just my guess

Considering your mileage (kilometerage?) is around 12.000, perhaps your total accumulated drive time has reached 100 hours, because the display can’t actually show 100 hours it resets back to 0 and in doing so resets your averages, defaulting back to a very optimistic range. Maybe check the page...

The Dacia Spring would cover a lot of that, except the range, but most people don’t do 500+ miles a day so you are a bit of an outlier there I would say

Have you had the alignment checked recently? A curb, pothole or even speed bump can throw out your toe settings, causing uneven wear.

Im sure your dealer would be more than happy to not have to do any updates. If you ask for no updates and they do them anyway, please share with the forum as we may have found some secret code to get updates then 😆

I always really enjoyed the small steering wheel in my Peugeots, I think they called it the I-cockpit but don’t know if they’ve dropped that term by now

I would refuse to pay any charges to diagnose a fault they most likely caused. A fair amount of dealers seem to run updates via usb but then don’t reconfigure the car using SIPS, which I think is through a laptop, I’m not sure. I’m just regurgitating what I’ve read on this forum 🤭

I agree with the above statements but do wonder if (some) manufactures think they can save money with a tiny 12V knowing it doesn’t have to crank a heavy diesel engine, thus the batteries don’t last as well as ICE ones did. And I wonder to what extent EVs tend to use more of the 12V when parked...

Has the dealer done any updates? They may have failed, or some dealers don't run through the complete process it seems. Might be worth checking directly with the dealer seeing as the car has been there only days ago.