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Can you turn on your intelligent battery heating though? I thought it was your cabin heating that was broken?

When’s the last time you did a <10% to 100% charge? The BMS might have drifted and be unsure of the real battery capacity? Not sure if that would show up as high consumption though, and not sure if it can drift enough to be that drastic.

I think @hojnikb means that the car can connect to a hotspot created by your phone (hence using the phone data not the built in data), and I think @Mouss is talking about the hotspot the car offers, in case you want your phone to use the built in data from the car.

What kind of driving are you doing? Speed, distance, elevation, traffic or lack thereof? Is intelligent battery heating on? It does seem strange the car is using that much

Which bi-directional DC charger did you get? I'm interested in getting one once we finally move.

Nope I have a Trophy 64. The trip left me with about 30% remaining, so I’m sure 250km would have been well within reach. Of course this was a relatively flat journey, so perhaps it wouldn’t have worked so well on @T1 Terry ‘s trip. I did mention to the missus during the trip how the 64 really...

I just did a 225 km one way run in the MG4, and back up two days later, with nowhere near using up a full battery each way, and doing 110 km/h most of that trip. So surely the MG4 would easily do 250 kms. Either way, compared to my full ICE 308 that returned roughly 600 km on a 50 litre tank, I...

This dude shows how to get into the settings for an Ottocast Mini 3 (according to google, I didn’t watch the whole video) It alluded to having a 5 or a 15 second delay on start up, I would definitely go for the 15, most people report a 30 second delay works most reliably on the MG4.

I suspect you’d need power to unlock the doors if they have been locked, they do this automatically once surpassing 15 km/h, I not sure if you can turn this off in the settings. But if the car is unlocked I don’t see why you couldn’t open the door. Always worth keeping an emergency hammer in...

I think those recent “range extender” EVs are even worse, that’s just a hybrid where the ICE doesn’t drive the wheels. They’ve just strapped a generator to the car really. I don’t see the appeal in hybrids, you get the worst from both worlds. You’re hauling around a battery pack (with the...

For those in WA (and perhaps others who would like to have them) I can highly recommend the EV tags from Just Add Noise. https://justaddnoise.com.au/products/5x-2-packs-of-ev-sticker-tags-10-tags-total-australian-made-bulk-pack They come with adhesive backing but also a pop rivet. The only...

I only ever see that light when I finish a DC charge, then when I tap the brake the light goes off. It’s very strange this light would come on whilst driving as it indicates (as far as I can tell) that the drive battery has disconnected. Which would leave you without drive power I would assume...

Or maybe they simply just don't care. Could be a slack technician feeding a load of BS to the front desk so they don't have to do the jobs they don't like doing. Either way it reflects badly on the service centre for sure.

If the data allowance is inadequate for standard use, wouldn’t most trophy owners complain about these issues? It strongly suggests that the OP is doing something out of the ordinary for the data to not last the month I would say.

Yeah I would say it’s the cover for where you attached the towing eye if you were to need it.

I sometimes wonder if this is caused by MG/SAIC being so in control of seemingly anything the dealership wants to do. It could be a clash of (corporate) cultures. Considering Chinese manufacturers used to steal designs all the time perhaps they are worried that others may steal their software in...

My longest regular(ish) drive takes 40% for a round trip, so in that case I just look at percentage,. On an unfamiliar route I check ABRP and check consumption figures mostly I think. I never really trust the GOM too much.

I have both the trickle charger and a type 2 cable in the frunk. If I didn't have a frunk though I probably wouldn't bother lugging the type 2 around. I got a 22 kw three phase capable cable, that way it'll work for any future cars too.

A vibration due to an imbalance in the tyres would come on at a certain speed but fade again when accelerating, so if it just gets stronger and stronger it won’t be fixed by balancing. I’m pretty sure there is a setting for vibration feedback (on/off) in, I think, the MG Pilot setting page. But...

I ordered these, but I’ve see them at Supercheap for $9.99 https://ebay.us/m/pMTyR9