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Been through a few deep flooded bits in the last couple of days but nothing quite like that yet. What's killing the ICE vehicles seems to be bad technique to a large extent, far too fast through the ford. The Diesels are probably destroyed with bent con rods, water ain't compressible :oops: The...

Think this issue might defeat even my 8mm ☺️

Head scratcher is there's plenty of space towards the front of the car to mount the motor further forward. Were they trying to keep major mass within the wheelbase and didn't consider possible side effects ?

Are there any worth having to date ? The only thing I would really like is for that infernal auto locking to be disabled on the SE. Other than that my car behaves itself pretty well.

Anyone brave enough to pop a clip from one of the CV joints to check the grease levels ? After finding all 4 brake calipers completely devoid of grease on mine, nothing would surprise me. Still think its the extreme forward angle of the driveshafts though, this means that the balls inside the...

My one was creaking and rattling, drove me bloody nuts. It would fall silent if moved the car with the hatch open so at least that helped narrow it down. Adjusting the little pegs to their fully extended position didn't really do it but gluing a couple of thin rubber washers to them helped...

Indeed. My 10 yr old could do a better job with her craft paints I think :cool:

The great thing about electric motors is that fitting a high output one ( or two ) doesn't hit efficiency like a large capacity ICE does. The wider tyres and losses from the extra gear train coupled with the 150kg weight penalty probably accounts for the x powers range loss more than the total...

That is a pretty shocking state for a brand new car to be in, similar to mine now but at least there's 11k miles on the clock. The steel on these cars seems to be paper thin too, a nasty stone chip low on my drivers door has also left a slight dent. Even after carefully touching it in, the...

Really ? on a practically brand new car ? Maybe on something that's been exposed to a dozen summers in the south of france. My DIY panel repairs NEVER peeled in the subsequent years I owned the cars, and I'm someone using a fifty quid spraygun and wheezy old compressor in my garage. In no way...

Each layer of paint should chemically bond to the next when it's still 'open' ie, not cured. If a paint layer is left for weeks then it would need to be roughed up for another layer to mechanically bond. Your tri coat will have the base colour, pearl layer then clearcoat. Usually the deeper...

Stone chips happen but that massive area of missing clearcoat is surely unacceptable pressure washer or not. You should really need sandpaper to remove properly stuck paint. That's going to need a repaint, adhesion issues in that area at least IMO.

As bricktop mentioned, manufacturers always tend to design their powertrains so driveshafts end up as straight as possible. Yes, a constant velocity joint is designed to transmit rotational power through an angle but there's still losses and wear associated with that. Makes much more sense...

Even if the extreme driveshaft angle is not the cause of the vibration it still seems like a really odd thing to sign off. There will be constant parasitic losses in all 4 joints because the balls slide fore and aft as the joint rotates at an angle. Maybe it wont amount to much but it will be...

Cheers, I'll have a look at those. If I drive over rough ground with the hatch open, no funny noises, as soon as you close it, rattle and creak.

Bought from Dicksons Inverness, no idea what they're like for servicing but to be fair they were fine to deal with re the purchase .

Demonstrates how the ball cage has to slide when in motion to accommodate any angle off dead straight. Maybe 65 to 75 is the wobble frequency that sets it on the vibe ? Hopefully more simple though as you say :confused:

Yup, inner and outer CV joints will be constantly working, and despite their name I'm not sure thats a good design decision. You may well have identified the cause, only trouble is there's not much that can be done barring a clean sheet redesign :confused:

Utterly useless and annoying, often it's still in a tizzy about being in a 20 or 30 zone when you've been on a 60 for 2 miles :rolleyes: I cut a circle from black electrical tape and slapped that over it ;)

From day 1- Oil leak. Chirpy air con. Bonkers LKA. Bonkers auto lights. Now at 11k miles and I have an extremely annoying clicking noise emanating from the drivers side front wheel bearing and an equally annoying rattle from the rear hatch at low speed. Due it's first service in Dec but very...