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Ok, so that's that theory blown out the water then :) can you take a pic of your front drivetrain ? Curious to know what it looks like and if its just the trophy unit with no changes.

Pretty much speculating re motor ;) Can't remember who but someone posted specs of the 3 motor variations MG currently use, 170, 200 and 240 BHP IIRC, I'm assuming uber cost conscious MG just threw the 240 in the rear and the 200 in the front, don't remember one with a decoupling geartrain...

The belief the front motor doesn't decouple or that current is induced when moving magnets near coils ?

Watched a munro live vid on the youtube where they estimated a $100 cost to Hyundai for fitting a decoupler in the front motor assembly. They also reckoned it made the drivetrain 6 to 8 % more efficient, equivalent to saving $600 in several kWh of battery capacity they didn't need to install (...

I believe the x power just uses one of the standard perm mag motors on the front, no fancy decoupling mechanism in the reduction box. If the motor is idle but still being spun by the cars forward motion, the magnets will still be causing electrons to flow in the field coils 'cogging' I believe...

I think the fact that it's a hatchback is the fundamental problem as speed increases. No coincidence that the model 3 and classic Ioniq with their streamlined bums can do much better at national limits, less turbulence and low pressure areas at the rear.

What's the default power and regen setting on the x power ? Full beans and max regen would be my preference but I'm guessing the fun police haven't made it so ?

Bugger....... all. At least it's relatively cheap and you get the breakdown cover. In a way the second year is the bigger rip off as they'll drain likely perfectly good brake fluid regardless of its moisture content and charge the best part of £200 for the nonsense. The bricks and mortar dealer...

As far as I know, the field windings are not oil cooled on these motors. I've had a £10 litre of synthetic auto tranny fluid lubricating mine for the last 8000 miles, pretty much what Tesla uses I think. Zero issues, quiet and smooth as ?

Aye, it's good to see all those virgin fixings before the road salt does its dirty business ? Got mine in December and spent an hour spraying waxoyl over all the exposed fasteners I could get to, seems to have helped as there's no surface rust on the treated ones. Nice to have clean threads and...

Haynes used to be useful but you're right, the increasing complexity of modern cars kinda put the kibosh on it. Was becoming somewhat irrelevant due to the internet TBH. I'm not sure how helpful it would be anyway, stuff like servicing the brakes and changing the gear oil is dead simple and...

Hmmm, are you a betting man... ? ;)

Indeed, especially as most are likely running around with 600 to 700ml of dirty oil. Even the low powered early leafs and classic ionics had over a litre of lube by design, not sure that these will be long lived assemblies even with the standard torque output :oops:

If what you're hearing is the high pitched 'wheee' coming from the rear of the car, then that's just the result of the inverter 'chopping' DC into AC for the motor. Totally normal and nothing to worry about.

Yep, it has quite a good balance of frisky oversteer dialled in, I always make sure the road is deserted and don't overestimate my abilities mind you. Downside is my rear tyres are 70% worn at just under 10k miles, they're pretty crap sono great loss anyway I guess ☺️

Not too droopy, thanks for asking ;) You really need to get a bit of thin aluminium plate or such to flatten that pesky centre section, fiddling around with screw holes or whatever they did won't cut it. Either that or it needs a revised undertray.

I know the lack of the rear spoiler on the SE helps efficiency but I can honestly say I struggle to get mine below 4 miles / kWh as long as its above 15 deg and dry. I gave it a light thrashing the other day running wifey to a late appointment. 50 mile round trip, 600ft elevation change en...

Molybdenum disulfide is a pretty effective extreme pressure additive, I poured some into a couple of ICE lumps in the past and it noticeably quietened the normal valve train and cam chatter. I believe the RAF used it in aircraft during WW2 as it would allow an engine to run for some time after...

Although if you use the official oil 1litre is more expensive than 5 litres of synth engine oil. Mine has ran on synthetic ATF for the last 6000 miles, tenner a litre, still smooth as butter. Make of that what you will but don't tell MG. ;)

Bearing failure on the differential then. Gears no longer aligned, broken teeth, jam, bang. Think I'll be changing the oil on mine every 20k miles for as long as I have it, it's no better than owning a fossil burner :)