It's not in the manual, just in the compatible settings. You can increase the 'End Charge' time to prevent the issue with the Zappi thinking the car has finished charging and switch 'Infinite PWM' on to ensure the CP signal remains on while the car is plugged in.
The fault/reset seems to be an...
The Zappi seems to have a workaround to the timeout issue. The MG5 is clearly not compliant with the charging standards but the Zappi can wake it by doing its automatic reset that occurs when charging doesn't start as expected. There are some settings which can help to prevent the Zappi from...
I'm not sure what the issue is with applying a little bit of pressure on the power pedal. It doesn't actually take any power until the power meter passes zero, it just reduces regen for the initial part of the travel.
Personally I find the creep a little too strong, I'm often fighting against it trying to come to a gentle stop. So I've taken to flicking into neutral once I get below 5mph. As you don't get any regen at all at lower speeds you actually save energy by rolling.
Once stopped, if it's more than...
I don't think anyone is suggesting doing anything other than what works best for you. Those of us who pay a bit more attention to the state of charge are thinking more long term - how much degradation there will be after 5 years or so.
The main thing is that people make an informed choice...
There is no such thing as 'the true range' as there are far too many variables. The WLTP test is a standardised, controlled test which gives a basis for comparison but it isn't supposed to be a realistic target in the real world.
It's just a case of understanding how the different variables...
There's some compatibility settings in the Zappi to prevent the "charge complete' issue. Something like "charge end" which you can set to 90s to give the car enough time to resume charging.
It doesn't make any difference whether you do lots of partial cycles or fewer, deeper cycles. Just be aware that more (very minor) degradation occurs when sitting, charging or discharging at either end of the usable voltage range, especially when it's particularly hot or cold.
It's generally...
There obviously the double clunk of the HV battery contactors engaging. Maybe it was that?
Sometimes the brake pedal is stiff so you have to press it a bit harder to get the car to start.
What makes you think it's fully charged and why do you think it's still charging?
The car will continue drawing a small amount of power (about 300W) for several hours after it hits '100%' while it balances the battery. But there's nothing stopping you from simply unlocking and unplugging at...
I mostly don't worry about range, but I do worry about wasting energy. Ultimately saving energy will increase the range, but it's more important for me to keep the costs and the net emissions down.
You can reduce the minimum green threshold to lower and allow the grid to supplement the solar power. I tend to keep mine set at 60% which will pull up to 560W from the grid to make up the 1.4kW minimum charge rate.
Ignore the GOM. 250 miles is not your 'range', just what the car achieved in the standardised WLTP test. You might get over 300 miles driving slowly in warm, dry weather. But you might get less than 160 miles when driving fast in the cold. You'll soon get used to it.
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