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Tried to charge at a CPS site, plugged into the rapid, took several attempts to get the car to charge but eventually did at an earth-shattering 26kW or so, went back to the car an hour later to move it onto one of the numerous AC posts so as not to hog the only rapid. Post authenticated the...

Or if the charging had stopped/failed to start for some reason, and you hadn't noticed. I've had failures to start charging a few times due to my charger/it's API being a pile of junk. That said I usually check it beforehand if i'm going on a longer trip so the effect was it just cost me more...

Either you have been very unlucky with cables/your replacement was of poor quality or someone needs to get an engineer out to check that charger as it may have a loose connection on the charger side causing excessive heat.

I managed to get mine showing 13.8 by the time I got home once, I think at one point it had hit 22. Just so happened that most of the journey was either flat or downhill (The figure going there would have been a lot less impressive)

Some of the newer smaller dongles use a LOT less power than the older ones. I've had a few of them now, a carlinkit mini v3, then couple of the Android AI boxes and now some generic usb stick looking one. The latest one is rated at only 300ma and seems a lot more stable than any of the others...

On the pre facelift usually driving it a few meters or so is enough to clear them. As long as they clear pretty quickly I wouldn't worry about them, it's just various Ecus starting up cold, presumably they don't store various sensor readings or something like that so need to wait until the...

I believe you should get the MG assist (AA) as long as the car's been serviced by an MG dealer. But it probably needs the dealer to update the records correctly to show this.

I have, I think pulling the 12V cleared it for me, but that said I don't listen to the radio anyway so as long as carplay/bluetooth works...

I usually just disconnect the negative cable directly at the battery (I.e the clamp that's on the negative terminal)

Trip computer was showing 13.8Miles per KWh at the weekend, but then I guess a 7.6Mile trip where it's pretty much either flat or downhill will do that... Pretty sure it was much more abysmal on the way there...

I thought it used regen breaking at first with the brake pedal even on kers1? Doesn’t the kerbs setting just control how aggressive it is without touching the brake pedal

Worth checking the port on the phone side as well, they seem to attract pocket fluff.etc I rarely use wired CarPlay (have an android box thing instead) but when I did I’d usually find connection issues were caused by a bad connection on the phone side.

Try the unlock button on the keyfob that usually releases the cable for me unless the cars throwing a hissy fit

It does if the floor is in the raised position (Not sure if you have to have the exclusive to have that option?)

On my pre facelift it only takes 30 seconds or so of driving to clear the faults, the facelift might take longer I guess.

I usually have no problem removing it, but then again mine spends most of it's life under the false floor as I removed it to let the dog in the boot.

Even without the subscription they are often cheaper than a lot of the other networks.

As far as I understand it from having read through most of this thread I'm afraid so.

Yep not sure if the cell monitor is setup correctly for the 5, soc seems accurate, I set module sleep for 12V. Also the WiFi and cellular shut off has been set to 1 and 3 days anyway to avoid excessive 12V drain.

Put the OVMS module back in, it's currently in the void in the centre console sitting on top of whatever ECU/Device sits in there (Didn't seem to bother it last time). Still can't poll when the car is locked without setting off the alarm :( and unless there's a way to disable OBD2 traffic...