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There is something odd with what’s going on. If the module was a pain I’d expect it to fail at the same point when it got to certain locations. Something is timing out or something is waking up imho because even with a fresh reprogram mine would fail at random intervals - 22%, 27%, 39%, 38% etc...

Well my 24h just up. It finally did it with a reprogram. Took over 8 attempts. I was so meh with it I left the OH with it as I had a stinking head ache. No battery charger on the car or laptop and it went through by all accounts. If it anything like the pain I’ve had today…. Possibly. As other...

Thanks I’m on attempt 4… Yes sorry cycled between and pulled the 12V on one go.

Well a few modules failed 😞 I tried to drive it an it stuck in neutral, mega squeaky bum time. Ran through again and the after routines thankfully it would go back into park and was drivable. Oh that wasn’t nice. FVCM keeps failing. Tried with a replacement “failed with a negative response”. Huuum

Well I’ve read and read and read. Downloaded alll of the bits and bought my time. Thank you The SE may be getting the treatment tomorrow. Any tips or watch outs ? I’m pushing it up to R38 1st via usb. Battery charger on with a charger on the laptop and USB to the VCI. Might even make a long...

Having trials and tribulations with a dealer (my issues were sorted but OH battling along with their HS). Found another dealer to try, mine needs warranty work again. Spoke about the HS and the service wasn’t logged ! Naughty naughty

On the old FIT ? Would be a very different story then

Afraid not. SEG = 15.1p/kwh. Still makes sense to sell my solar at that price and buy back at night.

I have found my SR on a freezing cold night would add around half an hour ish to the finish time in ismart estimated time (single phase 7kW). I assume it’s initially diverting some power to heating the pack up. What the cut off temp is I really don’t know but that says to me it’s in the 3kWh...

I have one of the Amazon immersion heater switches that are WiFi. It’s been working daily for 15months was around £20, works well only thing is the back box supplied is pants. You need a deeper one. It’s in a cupboard with painful access moving stuff so having remote ability is great (for clock...

I’m at the point of just agreeing with them. Yep silly me. Even when you present facts like the actual charging costs they come out with it’ll need a new battery in 3 years or they all burst into flames. Saving my breath now.

I bought my first off the boat SE near 2 years ago as an ex demo with 1200 miles on the clock. It was 22k The 1.5 Kia I wanted was 1k more (second hand with around 5k miles on iirc) but would cost extra on fuel and tax. Here we are.

My advice, don’t do it. Don’t ask me why but after 2 bags of plaster my Kia drove me crazy with random bongs on rear passenger seat. I don’t get it as a person would be heavier but hey.

Surely it can’t be compliant - I thought constant 13a on a 3pin was a no no, unless there is some clever trickery going on ?

Again not going to say I’ve investigated the engineering menu but I suspect you’d probably be hard pushed to get “errors” out of that area. Some high level diagnostics would be needed. Autel support the 4 now and there are people who have got Vcis from china at a good price but need you to buy...

I don’t specifically use this so can’t help on that front BUT the obd protocol is, as mentioned, there really for emissions issues and as such it operates in a different way than you may expect. It is a challenge response type affair. Hey car give me data on xxx then the car responds, that’s...

What is battery charge level ?

I meant this forum. Can’t remember where is was but found from a search on radio module initialising. Good job that it’s sorted.

Understood. This happened to OH car. My advice would be take battery off car definitely not worrying about battery saver, charge the thing up and see if it’ll survive but be prepared for it to no last. I say without the saver as some people have solved it with a battery off. As for that issue...

If you need to charge battery (is the display complaining?) or is it flat? If it’s flat it’s already got no power ergo no matter. If it’s complaining. Let the car charge for a bit possibly ? Basically why do you need to charge as you could be better off letting the car charge it or you may be...