Thanks for trying to enlighten me but I don't follow the logic TBH. My maths is pretty good but I don't understand the logic / process sorry.
Surely
100% = 90%+10%%+(some charging losses)%
my mileage is pretty low so bounce charging between 40-80% usually ie charge to 80% when it gets below 40%. Charge to 100% night before i do a long run or every month or two
would you mind explaining your calculation to me as i dont understand how you arrived at 41.99
what is 1.1 and 1.11?
what does 99.99% represent?
Surely DC charging losses are minimal?
37.83kWh for 90% charge sounds too little IMO
just intrested :)
There's a guy on YouTube recently. Rents/leases shipping type containers filled with second hand EV battery packs to power rapid chargers. The EV battery's are then trickle charged at 32 amps from grid. Brilliant idea to avoid DNO connection delays / problems
I have tried many BP pulse Ultra rapid charges without success. Don't know serial numbers but they were all 150kW with all the same modern big dual units and a huge screen/monitor. Dealer said there is a known issue and offered a free update.
I have booked my 1st year service in a few weeks. Quoted £95 which sounded OK.
They said they would update to fix BP pules charging issue and for LKA issue.
The plastic under tray has a slight warp, which didn't look too bad. :unsure: Granted i last looked months ago.
The infotainment has some...
I emailed dealer re not being able to BP ultra rapid charge 150kW. They said MG4 needs an update for this and to book it in.
I agreed to wait until service next month.
I recall bodging one of these many years ago on an MG TF by soldering in a new resistor from "maplin" (about 50p lol) to replace the failed resistor. They are usually located in the ventilation ducting, for cooling. worked a charm. Probably not possible nowadays
i bought on this affinity scheme. happy to answer any questions you have
i qualified as local authority employee. i just had to prove it with three bank statements. about £4k off + £1k for dest drive. the discount is just that no employer involvement
I always drive in Normal and find it accurate enough. I don't think Eco does much other than fiddle with heating/ventilation output.
Maybe someone with more knowledge could elaborate on what Eco actually does
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