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Its in the youtube comments [email protected]

I bought heko sourced in the UK free delivery https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166961453757?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=cZit5HsFTvK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=gXseXcSfR-S&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Fitted in 20 mins including watching the instructional video.

Yeah piece of cake. Scan original wheel then place next to new one and send the code then repeat for the rest. Took 10 mins tops. I didn't bother buying one as I would have little use after coding mine. I have just switched back to summer wheels and it worked with ho errors or recode needed.

I had a good idea they would depreciate when i bought mine but i plan to keep mine for 7 yrs or so. Its got everything i want so why change. I just saw an MG4 X power with under 4k for 26500.

Mg4 wasnt listed when i used it last year but could have been uodated now. I used MGZS setting and it worked fine.

Autel TS508. I borrowed it from the company i bought the alloy wheels from. Great bit of kit though.

I have 2 sets summer and winter . I marked mine up as i removed them from the car. I havent put summers back on yet but when i put the original wheels on after the summer last year all worked well having marked them up. I programmed mine myself with the Autel scanner cloning each wheel like for...

I realise that but i wanted something more OEM without cables being seen in the cabin. A pet hate of mine if it can be done without seeing any wiring . My dashcam is wired so comes on as soon as you sit in the seat. Easy to do so ill go down that route i think.

For hardwiring to a switched fuse in the fusebox rather than taking up a usb socket. The intention to wire to the same fuse as the dashcam so as soon as you get in the drivers seat the strips come on. Not the exact one as you would probably need the 5v conversion type like a dashcam...

Thanks for that it looks realky good. I think i wil probably go for something like this and go straight to the fuse box as the usb is always in use for me...

I posted the original how to for the led reverse lamps and indicator led swap. The light clusters are cheap crap to be fair and i had rusting on screws behind them when I changed the bulbs . I couldnt see any drain holes but im not suprised they mist up.

I wouldn't bother doing any of that. Why should you. I removed both tail lights by unplugging the harness no different to what you are doing. Makes no sense what so ever. Regardless what people say it has no canbus for lights etc. I ran the car with lights disconnected with no warnings.

Mine still light up when I plug in. No idea if they illuminate whilst charging as I am asleep zzzz

No particular side. The seller did send a couple of images straight forward.

Mine had its first service a few weeks ago . Software was all up to date anyway but i did get similar messages when it was updated. I did get a list of things checked with an idea of the battery state which was 100 per cent after 8k.

They have both left now. I bought my MG4 from them last year and after having skoda for the last 20 years from main dealers they have a lot to learn. I wouldn't buy a wheel barrow from them now. They are fine if you are a 70 year old who has no idea about cars because they don't. They will fob...

It just illuminates the corner lights as per the image and not the strip across the back. Confirmed by the seller.

I am assuming it does. I'll message my man and report back.

I'm thinking about it. I contacted the seller as I have had a few bits from him. Just to clarify, only one is needed, which has been confirmed. Shouldn't cause too many issues during the day with the light, and it reverts back to normal at night.

Having had Octavia VRS for the last 20 years and each being mapped by REVO locally i did have a look but as its a normal aspirated engine im not sure the gains are worth it. Just enjoying a high reving engine at the moment and trying to get in and out gracefully.:giggle: