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That's unfortunate. I'm still looking for the 12.3" display, that's found on chinese and thai versions of the car for a possible retrofit. Would make the search easier i had PN for all the possible versions.

Any way to get full PN number?

No full replacemnt available though?

are these replacement badges or covers/stickers for the original ones?

As discussed in a previous thread; the value you get is not totally accurate. It's a time based value, not actual degradation. In any case, should be fine.

Anyone got any info, what happens after 5 years, when esim expires? I don't see any paid options offered for now.

Just another reason not to kill even more aero with worse wheels. It's difficult to actually measure the difference in real world, but the difference is there. Otherwise manufactureres wouldn't bother covering them up.

that's actually a common misconception. Aerodynamic properties of the wheel and wideness of tire play a significant role in consumption. For example; tesla3 lr rws drops almost 10% of WLTP range when you upgrade to 19" wheels with more open design. And the faster you drive, the more effect...

What LEDs did you buy? Do note, that those open wheels will kill a lot of range. Not a very good thing when the car already has pretty small battery.

DAB+ is still spotty, so is deceting poor lane markers. But it's better than what it was originally.

As mentioned above; at least for LFP car's the most accurate value seems to be to reset the board computer and check estimated range at 100%. That compared to WLTP range will give you an indication of actual degradation. NMC cars seem to already report pretty accurate value from the carscanner.

State of health does affect that, but under normal driving conditions, you're not gonna be power limited until the battery is severly degraded.

I'd still say, that driving just like the rest of trucks isn't a bad thing though. As long as you stick to that and don't drive slow when there's no trucks or on the passing lane. But yeah, not a good image for EVs for sure.

This is just to remove as much variables as possible. In real life, you just don't drive like that, as it's a pain obviously.

Both datas are relevant, because you can easily calculate available full charge energy of the battery. And thus calculate real SOH. The problem with picking a longer journy is that there is just way way too much variables at play to say if the battery is still the same or not. You might do that...

As a driver you can fully charge the car + balance. And when the car is fully charged, immediatly go for a drive and run the battery completly. Resulting milage and consumption (along with energy spent on that trip) will give you a very nice indication on the actual energy battery has.

Were you able to fix it? Seems to have the same sound from mine as well.

Of course you can measure SOH. Very accuratly at that. Top charge to 100%+balance and then discharge to empty empty (BMS cuts off due to low voltage). The resulting discharged energy is your actual pack capacity. Actual pack capacity divided by nominal new pack = SOH in %. And BMS can...

Maybe NMC cars are different. Im pretty sure LFP cars, when you reset the consumption, range estimation defaults to WLTP minus degradation.

don't give too much stock into this info. If you want to get real degradation (or close to it) reset board computer and check the range. Your actual range divided by WLTP range of your car will give you a better idea of degradation. My suspesion is, that 51kWh cars include bottom buffer into...