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Probably the best degradation indicator could be to reset the total trip and check the GOM at 100%. It resets to WLTP values, so your value/rated wlp should net somewhat accurate degradation.

How did you came with that value?

did you try to run it in VDS or SIPS ?

I once (intentionally) went to 0% and maybe 1-2km on the GOM with 51kWh. Nothing really special, expect power being limited to about 70% or so. Never went beyond that. Looking at the OBD reading and cluster reading, there's about 2-2.5% discrepancy in SOC between the two (cluster being a lower...

Pretty much. I wonder if someone is brave enough to crossflash the modules from a newer model to enable that feature :D I doubt anything is fundamentally different HW wise.

I wish they brought this feature to early models as well. Surely this is just software.

How are you plotting this data? Just OBD left in the car and phone on and kept logging? I might try this (for science) if newer BMS versions act any differently.

The pack and cell matching must be pretty good. Even at 5%, i get near full power (almost certanly at least 80%). If cells were heavily out of match, BMS would not allow for such power at such low SOC. Even at 0% indicated, the car still went pretty well, but power loss was noticable. My guess...

Don't know. In any case, get the car updates, as you're not running the latest version.

Fully updated car with SIPS is the first prerequisite. After that, just unlock the car and click on keyless start in the app before you sit inside the car.

Standard with R40 and everything else up to date; Digital Key works flawlessly.

And they don't expose these things to service tools for good reason. There's no reason why 3rd parties or servicing shops would have to change these parameters. Factory likely tested everything beforehand and how it acts in the wild. Just modifying some crucial values could have adverse effects...

i dont see any settings you can change in the bms, at least not in sips or vds. So as always, AI is telling bull🤣

Yes, you need to update the BMS via SIPS. Don't have the revisions unfortunally. I've updated my whole car and didn't really bother checking that. I'd still say what you're seeing is normal. I highly doubt anything serious is wrong or configured poorly. SAIC likely woulndn't give you 8 year...

What kind of system access do you really want? We can already install apps and get into the android system. What more would you really want at that point?

A similar "argument" could be made for pretty much any car running AAOS. I don't think this lawsuit has any teeth.

It's pretty normal for LFP cells to go "out of balance" when you top charge them at ~3.6V. The difference in capacity between 3.45V and 3.65V is very small and even a % of difference between cells will cause lots of voltage fluctuations. As for balancing voltages; i would suggest updating the...

Uf you don't like the app, you can use home assistant instead. With MQTT bridge, you basically have the same functionality as the stock app, but you can configure it how you like. And with custom cards, you can mimic the design of the original app (there seem to be some floating around this forum).

No they're not. Only Luxury and above have heatpump as standard, below it's a regular PTC heater.

Also i'd be best to at least update the HVAC module, so your AC will work properly. But that requires SIPS