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I'm very happy with Falken's e.Ziex. If you're after absolute efficiency, that's the way to go right now. Still pretty good grip for an eco tire and not that expensive.

You can also buy an obd dongle for your MG4 and feed data to the ABRP that way. It's not as convenient as the API option, but you could use it just to train the ABRP a little bit, so it knows your car and your driving style. This way you get an accurate reference consumption, so you use that to...

it's pretty easy actually https://xdaforums.com/t/mg4-electric-aaos-9-playing-and-possibly-other-mg-models.4697712/ As for data feeding; that requires a bit more setup, as you need a linux based server to get that script working. Usually th easiest path is via homeassistant, as it only takes an...

You sideload the application to the infotainment (basically runs natively as it would on a phone). This along with developer id option to push live data (via saic-mqtt-gateway) you can get around all paid restrictions.

Just sideload ABRP to the infotainment to get proper route planning. Bonus point if you can feed it live data for added accuracy.

https://xdaforums.com/t/mg4-electric-aaos-9-playing-and-possibly-other-mg-models.4697712/ Depending on your version; this should help you. Do note, that for some reason EQ is not working on the stock radio app. Just bluetooth streaming.

But infotainment worked fine with R42? I wonder what would happen if you updated FICM with R40, then afterwards updated to R42?

That's interesting! I thought MY22, MY23 had the same infotainment software branch. What issues did SIPS mismatch caused?

thx hopefully someone can figure out what changed with those!

Any changes? Where did you get the zip update?

any chance you can find the part number for the 13.6" infotainment, that thai and chinese cars have?

You don't need an active balancer or current limiting on the BMS side. A passive balancer is just fine (and is part of most BMSes anyway), as for current limiting; given that LFPs tend to hold their current flat up to ~90-95%, there's no need for that either. You just cut off charging at 3.65V...

That may be, but you still need less power for a given unit of heat, compared to resistive heaters, which are always only 100% efficient. Even if heatpump runs at 150-200% efficiency, thats still a lot better.

Maybe the charger was limited to 125A for some reason? Either that or the battery was still too cold.

With temps dropping below ~-5C and doing short trips with preheating, i'd be happy to get 100km of range on the 51kwh. Not having a heatpump kills efficiency pretty hard.

Exacly. So do i. Plenty of experience with LFPs and other chemistries. It's just a simple fact, that Na+ just isn't ready for primetim, unless you have a very specific application. Cost isn't an advantage, Wh/kg or Wh/L or equipment compatability neither. It might be a fun diy project, that...

Even if that were true (i run a 3 year old battery and it seems to be near perfect) you'd be still better off with an LFP based replacement. It's operating voltage is closer to lead acid, will offer more capacity for a given formfactor and will have plenty charge/discharge power for an EV...

Fact of the matter is; batery cant pull it's usable capacity with any of the standard equipment, unless especially designed around it. The battery in question doesn't even have a properly setup BMS, so me, as an end user will never be able to pull full capacity, regardless of what equipment i...

That's the dumbest thing i've ever heared. Why would you test a sealed battery at the cell terminals, bypassing the BMS? Nobody in practise will do that (why would they, they bought a battery, not a cellpack). So this was demonstration of the sealed product, not the cells themselfs. Also if...

My home LFP setup, consisting of 16S 280Ah cells (grade A-, since those were they cheapest i could source) still hold near full capacity after roughly 300 cycles. They did degrade initially to about 97-96%, but are still holding that after many cycles. And this pack is heavily abused; being...