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Agreed, it’s rather an issue with this specific pack than a general problem: https://www.mgevs.com/threads/what-depth-of-water-can-an-electric-car-mg-go-through.14115/post-239517

Modern HV battery packs are waterproof. That’s an easy fix, open the lid and let it dry out? That’s most likely the price for a replacement pack, not a repair The battery is temperature controlled by a liquid medium, not sure what color it is? The important word here is ‘can’, if this is...

Just the balancing message or tortoise mode @ SoC > 10% as well? Did you do a hard reset already?

As mentioned, the actual work can be done in a day. What takes time is to get ‘all your ducks into a row beforehand I.e diagnose the problem correctly, get authorisation from MG to proceed, organise necessary tools/spares and find someone qualified and certified to do this job. From experience...

It’s possible to remove a HV battery, open it up and replace a faulty cell within a day (I have done that myself, not on an MG5 though). Most EV manufacturers actually don’t train ordinary technicians to do this kind of work as one has to cut trough a mountain of red tape to do this ‘above...

Better to look at it then for it, 2 hours charging @11kW vs 7kW makes a difference if there is no Rapid nearby.

The only modes the heating is actually working (not just blowing air around) is when the car is READY to drive or during the preheat function via the app (car locked).

When you say stopped, was the car still ‘Ready’? Heating won’t work without HV battery connected…

It’s highly recommended to externally charge even a brand new 12V aux overnight as you don’t know how long it’s been sitting on a shelf. The car will shut down immediately once the 12V aux goes below a certain limit (11.8V is too close for comfort imho), regardless of the SoC of the main battery.

The CCU (Combined Charge Unit) in a MG5 has two functions: provide low voltage power (14V ish) when driving or charging convert AC mains voltage into DC battery voltage during Type1/2 charging You’re correct, it certainly looks like the CCU is defective (or fuse ‘M’ under the hood has blown)...

It looks like the car successfully balances the cells in an hour and a bit. Can you confirm that all looks good when you turn on the car, e.g. the message only pops up when reversing? This could indicate that (at least) one cell’s voltage drops significantly under load (car moving) and...

There is no app, SoC limit or schedule on a PFL MG5. Something similar happened to ours last month; a hard reset (12V aux disconnect) sorted it.

If yours is a long range model, then a reported SoH of 98% seems (given the age and mileage) excellent as in ‘too good to be true’. If it’s a standard range, it could be more realistic if it has one of these rumoured ‘reject LR battery’ fitted. The ‘tortoise mode’ could be caused by either a...

‘Snail mode’ is a condition where the car limits the available power to prevent damage. A very common one is when a cell voltage drops below a safety limit which seems to be the issue here. A functioning car will let you fully discharge the battery before snail mode is eventually activated.

Moving the steering wheel fully left & right should clear all the errors that will appear after re-connecting the 12V aux, otherwise driving a few yards should do the job..

It’s rare, but I have heard of MG5’s suffering from what appears to be a voltage imbalance caused by a weak cell. I would start with a hard reset, I.e. disconnect the (-) pole of the 12V battery for a few minutes. If that doesn’t make a difference, invest in a OBD dongle and check the cell...

… and sell the energy back to the grid to get rid of the stolen goods asap…

That’s odd, the book value of 250 miles should not be exceeded @100% SoC after a reset of the accumulated total? I wouldn’t worry about it though, as it reverts back to 240 after a driving few miles.

This wasn’t addressed to you, it’s a reply to post #38

Any pics?