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If it was built in 2020, it is the Mk. 1 model. As far as I know, this model neither has the 360 camera nor is it compatible with the app. Those features came with the Luxury/Trophy trim on the Mk. 2 (starting in 2021).

The last 20% of charging are the most stressful for a battery. That is true even for LFP chemistry, but to a lesser degree than for NMC. I make it a habit to not plug the car in if the battery is above 75-80% when I get home (unless I know I have a long trip coming up the next day). Anything...

Unless you start with 10% before the mountains, it's not going to be a big deal. You will use some more battery than usual on the incline, but will get quite a bit back on the way back down.

I would really recommend against that. The tyre fix kit is for emergencies to allow you to limp the car to a shop. It will a) not last and b) gunk up the inside of the tyre, making a proper repair or replacement (which will be required no matter what) more difficult and expensive.

Yes, my EVCC (not the CCU!) was swapped from 11408732 to 11505199 for free, but only after a lot of back and forth with MG headquarters. See this thread for more details: MG ZS missing V2L function

Your ZS may not have functioning V2L. See this thread: MG ZS missing V2L function

Please be aware that a 11kW (3x16A) cable will only charge the ZS at 3.6kW. You need either a 1 phase 7kW cable (1x32A) or a 22kW cable (3x32A) to charge at max speed on AC.

There is also an embossed image of a valve next to the larger slot.

The update zip file is the same, you just get a different PDF depending on your choice. I guess the UI differs between Luxury and Comfort, because Comfort doesn't have the connected features. The german "Luxury" trim is more or less equivalent to the UK's "Trophy Connect".

I just took at look at the comma python code required to support a car brand. This seems more like a reverse engineering problem, not just python knowledge. You need to figure a whole lot of CAN bus messages for the various modules (camera, radar, steering, etc.) to control the car. And since...

That is a third-party webpage, and it is incorrect. It also claims 100kW CCS charging power, which is also incorrect.

The battery heating system is not a heat pump. Heat pumps are for the climate control system, as a (more efficient, but more expensive) alternative to the electric heating elements.

Are you sure? I never heard of any model of the ZS EV having a heat pump.

My Carlinkit 5.0 is running version 2024.01.18.1053, which is the latest available right now. I'm also using the included cable (Type A). A black screen that goes away by itself doesn't sound like a cable problem, and more like a software issue. Whether it's the software on the MG, the...

I get that, but I'm not even comparing it to the long factory antenna, but to my little aftermarket stub antenna, which is already significantly worse. Since it apparently can't even match that, I cannot recommend it at all.

It's not just a good idea. If you don't do it, the car will give a somewhat oblique message about how you "did not meet the conditions for upgrade" and refuse to even start the process.

I tried to install my Supershark yesterday, but my DAB reception basically died when I connected it. A bit disappointing since everybody said the reception was fine for them. I guess I'll stick with the short stick antenna that I had before.

The update zip is the same for everybody. The VIN is only used to gate off the download. Make sure to use a known good 32GB USB drive, format it freshly with exFAT and put the "maps" folder from the zip in the root of the drive. Also, as I've learned, make sure to put the car in "Ready" mode...

Fast chargers (aka DC chargers or CCS chargers) have the cable permanently attached to the charging point, since they have very specific demands and are often actively cooled. What you may want is a Type2 cable to be able to use AC chargers on the road. Just be aware that those are not really...

The car generally won't let you lock the key inside the car. The door will refuse to lock by button (and honk at you) if the key is still inside. (I imagine this is not fool-proof, but nice to know the car tries to look out for you.)