Brakes

IanMK

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MG4 Trophy LR
What are your opinions on the brakes? My wife and I find they're rather spongy compare to our Audi A1. I mentioned to the dealer who said they would take a look but their comments made me think that we should lower our expectations.
 
What are your opinions on the brakes? My wife and I find they're rather spongy compare to our Audi A1. I mentioned to the dealer who said they would take a look but their comments made me think that we should lower our expectations.
I’ve not driven the MG4 for a lot of miles but I found the brake feel and operation to be good and well balanced.
On many EV’s the transition from regenerative braking and friction braking can be less than smooth. The MG4 seems fine. During the first light application (indeed as soon as you lift off the accelerator pedal) you will have regenerative braking followed by the conventional friction brakes.
The issue with many EV’s is that the friction brakes don’t get a great deal of use and can rust and seize.
Comparing what you had before can be problematic. I would give it a while to form a better opinion.
 
What are your opinions on the brakes? My wife and I find they're rather spongy compare to our Audi A1. I mentioned to the dealer who said they would take a look but their comments made me think that we should lower our expectations.
The MG4 is nearly 50% heavier (~500kg), but the brake discs / tyres are of similar size, so they will be spongy (i.e. less sharp) compared to your Audi A1
 
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Don't forget that you'll need to use the brakes a lot after a full (100%) charge as there's nowhere for any regen to go. :)

I saw a (fleeting) reminder to that effect as I set off this afternoon for a spin in the new car. Another reason to limit the charge to 80% if you're not intending to go far the next day, I suppose.
 
I’ve yet to come across an EV that doesn’t have very dead feeling brakes.
Whether it was either of my leafs, the MG or my born, I just cannot ‘bury the nose’ from high speed like I could in an ICE without pressing like buggery and getting a bit of an ‘oh shhhhhh…’ feeling.
Weight is obviously an issue in braking, but doesn’t explain the lack of feel which I believe is just down to the way EVs work and there’s sod all you can do.
I did want to experiment with brake pads in my leaf, seeing as the calipers were common to other Nissans, but never got around to it.
 
Don't forget that you'll need to use the brakes a lot after a full (100%) charge as there's nowhere for any regen to go. :)
Glad you said this… did a 100% charge yesterday and got a bit of a shock when the car didn’t slow down as expected when the foot was off the accelerator. I assumed it was something to do with less regen.
 
Glad you said this… did a 100% charge yesterday and got a bit of a shock when the car didn’t slow down as expected when the foot was off the accelerator. I assumed it was something to do with less regen.

Part of the reason for my joyride today was to get used to not using the brake pedal. They I saw the warning message as I powered up and thought, shouldn't have taken it to 100%, should you?

Does anyone know how far the battery has to drop before regen is at full strength?
 
Part of the reason for my joyride today was to get used to not using the brake pedal. They I saw the warning message as I powered up and thought, shouldn't have taken it to 100%, should you?

Does anyone know how far the battery has to drop before regen is at full strength?
All temperature of the battery dependent, you could have 50% SoC but if your packs at 3C you're getting reduced braking as the motor at regen 3 can kick upto 46kW back into the battery which when cold is bad
 
Part of the reason for my joyride today was to get used to not using the brake pedal. They I saw the warning message as I powered up and thought, shouldn't have taken it to 100%, should you?

Does anyone know how far the battery has to drop before regen is at full strength?

Somewhere between 2 and 5% I think
 
All temperature of the battery dependent, you could have 50% SoC but if your packs at 3C you're getting reduced braking as the motor at regen 3 can kick upto 46kW back into the battery which when cold is bad

Not sure I'm decoding that precisely. External temperature was between 6C and 10C but the car was being run. (When I got home it suggested I turn on battery heating to charge.)

Somewhere between 2 and 5% I think

That's an answer I understand, and yes, by the time it was at 95% I certainly thought I was getting braking.
 
Not sure I'm decoding that precisely. External temperature was between 6C and 10C but the car was being run. (When I got home it suggested I turn on battery heating to charge.)



That's an answer I understand, and yes, by the time it was at 95% I certainly thought I was getting braking.

External temperature doesn't have a massive bearing on HV battery pack temp unless it's been left for hours to acclimatize.

Essentially if it's been 3C all night sun comes up it's 7C, that battery is still going to he 3C for hrs after the sun's come up and started warming the air up.

Until the pack is atleast at 10C internally it classes itself as cold hence the heater request in the dashboard.

Regen is based on motor reverse powerflow, basically slamming the rotor into reverse in comparison to the magnetic flux of the stator and cause a a generation of electrical energy.

A battery is more sympathetic to power drain at low temps than it is at charging.

As such battery pack temperature is a big factor in regen potential regardless of soc
 
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