TPMS

beth

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Driving
I have a warning of a fault with the TPMS on one wheel. Instead of pressure being shown as a number in white there are orange dashes. Has anyone had this and worked out how to fix this?
 
could be a faulty sensor, needs checking. I've got one that reads 0.2 bar low all the time.
 
I have a warning of a fault with the TPMS on one wheel. Instead of pressure being shown as a number in white there are orange dashes. Has anyone had this and worked out how to fix this?

you could try disconnecting negative from the 12V battery for a few min and see what happens
 
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All four of mine (MG5) show a dash for pressure and a dash for temperature in yellow boxes. It's due to go back to the dealer for diagnosis and rectification.

Oddly, while it was parked in a different location a few days ago, I found all four showing the same temperature (20°C) , but still a dash for pressure. The temperature reading has since disappeared. Perhaps it was reading a neighbouring car?

I had been told it would need about 20 miles of driving for the system to 'reset', but I've driven a lot more than that, and I still have the TPMS warning.

Is there a description of the negative battery terminal disconnect procedure/process somewhere I can follow. I can follow instructions, but I do need even the simplest 'mechanical maintenance' things spelled out to me in big letters, simple diagrams, and words of few syllables. And none of the 'assembly is the reverse of disassembly' (Haynes©), please.
 
Is there a description of the negative battery terminal disconnect procedure/process somewhere I can follow. I can follow instructions, but I do need even the simplest 'mechanical maintenance' things spelled out to me in big letters, simple diagrams, and words of few syllables. And none of the 'assembly is the reverse of disassembly' (Haynes©), please.

Hope someone can confirm this:

Have a look at this post by shpub - I haven't tried disconnecting mine yet but it seems that only the top nut (which he replaced with the black plastic knob) needs to be unscrewed and the wire on top of that little black box with "SAIC" on it taken off for a few minutes and then put back and the nut screwed on.

 
Thank you for that - in my naïvity I would have disconnected from the actual battery negative terminal - the consequence apparently being: "Removing the whole terminal from the battery causes the current sensor - black rectangular box - to have to go through a recalibration process."

Since I don't know what the calibration process involves, and whether it requires extra equipment or dealer/workshop intervention, I could have made an unfortunate choice.

As it is, I have a problem with the 12V battery system, as the car continually complains about low charge on the 12V battery, and while the voltage shown on the console display varies, the charge state does not, even when the 12V battery has been charged by an (external) 12V battery charger to 100%. It is another thing that requires diagnosis and rectification by the dealer.
 
As it is, I have a problem with the 12V battery system, as the car continually complains about low charge on the 12V battery, and while the voltage shown on the console display varies, the charge state does not, even when the 12V battery has been charged by an (external) 12V battery charger to 100%. It is another thing that requires diagnosis and rectification by the dealer.

bad 12v battery causes all kinds of problems and system error messages... Best to change it, not expensive.
 
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