Help car not charging (either cable)

[NickyJ]

Have you tried using the granny charger previously? (you mention charging off solar but not sure if that was with the granny). Just trying to eliminate a faulty granny. As other have said, a trip to your neighbour would eliminate a local house problem.
Have you any internet over mains added recently? If so turn this off and try again, or try at a neighbours house who does not have internet over mains. This has caused many Mk1 users to have problems charging.
When you plug in the type 2 cable, can you hear the car locking the plug? If not, check the locking pin.
As others have said, the car may still DC charge on a rapid CCS charger as this bypasses the AC to DC power supply in the car. Worth trying as it keeps the car usable, but I take your point about not wanting to waste the remaining battery if it does not work.

Yes I was using the granny charger to ensure that charge rate was much closer to whar I was generating as while my charger had dropped off network it goes straight to the 7kwh and I don't generate THAT much

That trick work so it is accepting charge again from both sources

 

[Lovemyev]

Yes I was using the granny charger to ensure that charge rate was much closer to whar I was generating as while my charger had dropped off network it goes straight to the 7kwh and I don't generate THAT much

That trick work so it is accepting charge again from both sources

Remember - ABC !.
Always Be Carrying a 10mm spanner ? ?.
I have one in a plastic bag, tapped to the side of my 12 volt battery !.
EV’s are not really cars, they are computers on wheels !.
They sometimes need a CNT - ALT - DELETE.
Glad you are sorted !.

 

[NickyJ]

Remember - ABC !.
Always Be Carrying a 10mm spanner ? ?.
I have one in a plastic bag, tapped to the side of my 12 volt battery !.
EV’s are not really cars, they are computers on wheels !.
They sometimes need a CNT - ALT - DELETE.
Glad you are sorted !.

Yes, that was what I was hoping to find. The Factory Reset on menu I was hoping would be it but sadly not.

 

[Lovemyev]

Yes, that was what I was hoping to find. The Factory Reset on menu I was hoping would be it but sadly not.

The factory reset I believe only resets the head unit, by disconnecting the negative terminal on the 12 volt battery, it completely kills the power to ALL of the modules in the car and clears out any confusion in their heads .
10mm spanner for the win !.
Keep one handy, it could get you out of a sticky moment.
Glad your sorted anyway.
The forum works its magic once again .
Bit quicker than a three week wait for the dealership, thats a massive weight off your mind.
Great shout @Kithmo.

 

[Ayoull]

Another thing is try a rapid charger, as it maybe the Charge control unit at fault, if it charges on a DC rapid you can rule out that

 

[rvergara]

The factory reset I believe only resets the head unit, by disconnecting the negative terminal on the 12 volt battery, it completely kills the power to ALL of the modules in the car and clears out any confusion in their heads .
10mm spanner for the win !.
Keep one handy, it could get you out of a sticky moment.
Glad your sorted anyway.
The forum works its magic once again .
Bit quicker than a three week wait for the dealership, thats a massive weight off your mind.
Great shout @Kithmo.

Has to be the negative terminal? or can you alternatively disconnect the positive terminal?

 

[N2STY]

Has to be the negative terminal? or can you alternatively disconnect the positive terminal?

Normally the negative is the easiest to get to it's also the safest way and prevents damage to the electrical system
So best practice is negative off first and negative on last for the same reason any battery cut-off switches should only be fitted on the negative side

 

[Lovemyev]

Has to be the negative terminal? or can you alternatively disconnect the positive terminal?

This was taken from the Kia web site, but this is the recommend process on all cars really.
"If you need to REMOVE your 12 volt battery, then disconnect the black negative terminal first, then followed by the red positive terminal.
When refitting or reconnecting the battery, do it in the reverse order.
Fit the red positive terminal first, then followed by the black negative terminal”.
If you are leaving the battery in place ( and you will be in this case ) and only want to perform a "Full System Reset" to the whole 12 volt system, then just remove the black negative terminal for about 5 - 10 minutes, then refit and tighten is absolutely the right thing to do, as kindly pointed out by @N2STY .

 

[Kithmo]

"Hey boss, I was just trying to remove the battery and I welded the spanner to the red terminal" said the apprentice.

 

[Malcolm]

Hi All, came here in desperate hope for anything I can do. I have had my car for 18months and have done just over 15k miles.

Last night the car didn't charge -originally blamed the update pushed out to home charger. It didnt start charge via schedule nor when I pressed boost. I unplugged and retried couple of times and left in boost mode and went back to bed (was 1:30am!).

Tried a BP 7kw charger while daughter was swimming. Kept flashing between blue and green, then giving up. Failed to initiate charge. This was using same cable as at home.

Got home switched to 3 pin charger. Still same. The lights on charger show power, the green charging light is flashing and the fault light is NOT lit.

All this time car just reports "connected but not charging"

I have tried hoovering the connectors in case dirt impacting connections. Factory reset from car menu.

I have checked warning menu no error messages

My range now down to 50 miles. So enough to get to the nearest MG dealer at 20plus miles away but god knows how long before getting warranty appointment. Leaves me with no car in meantime as daren't drive any further now.

Any other things I can do at home?

Thank you

My MG ZS will not intiate a charge. It keeps saying "connected but not charging".

I have had the car 18months and done over 15K.

I have tried 3 different Type 2 7kwh charge points with same cable. One of these being my home one.

I have tried 3pin charger. This is not reporting a fault and the green light that indicates charging is flashing. I now can't recall whether that is solid normally?

I have tried hoovering the charge port on car just incase something was blocking a contact. I have tried factory reset via the car menu.

When I plug in car you can hear it locking the connector.

Please can anybody offer any other suggestions I can do at home? Thank you so very much.

Have you not seen my post about this problem?
First thing to do is try a public rapid charger i.e DC. (tethered) If that works then the AC part of the on board charger is probably faulty. Mine was replaced under warranty FOC last week.

 

[leafowner]

Has to be the negative terminal? or can you alternatively disconnect the positive terminal?

The -ve terminal is connected to the car body.

If you start to remove the +ve terminal first then it could be quite easy for you to 'short' the battery by connecting the +ve terminal to the body and hence to the -ve terminal - this isnt good for the battery and can give interesting pyrotechnics.

 

[Charlie Delta Tango]

Hi All, came here in desperate hope for anything I can do. I have had my car for 18months and have done just over 15k miles.

Last night the car didn't charge -originally blamed the update pushed out to home charger. It didnt start charge via schedule nor when I pressed boost. I unplugged and retried couple of times and left in boost mode and went back to bed (was 1:30am!).

Tried a BP 7kw charger while daughter was swimming. Kept flashing between blue and green, then giving up. Failed to initiate charge. This was using same cable as at home.

Got home switched to 3 pin charger. Still same. The lights on charger show power, the green charging light is flashing and the fault light is NOT lit.

All this time car just reports "connected but not charging"

I have tried hoovering the connectors in case dirt impacting connections. Factory reset from car menu.

I have checked warning menu no error messages

My range now down to 50 miles. So enough to get to the nearest MG dealer at 20plus miles away but god knows how long before getting warranty appointment. Leaves me with no car in meantime as daren't drive any further now.

Any other things I can do at home?

Thank you

My MG ZS will not intiate a charge. It keeps saying "connected but not charging".

I have had the car 18months and done over 15K.

I have tried 3 different Type 2 7kwh charge points with same cable. One of these being my home one.

I have tried 3pin charger. This is not reporting a fault and the green light that indicates charging is flashing. I now can't recall whether that is solid normally?

I have tried hoovering the charge port on car just incase something was blocking a contact. I have tried factory reset via the car menu.

When I plug in car you can hear it locking the connector.

Please can anybody offer any other suggestions I can do at home? Thank you so very much.

Have you tried disconnecting the 12v battery and leaving for 20min then reconnecting. Size 10 spanner often useful to reset the car.

 

[Zing]

Had a similar issue with a 2021 BYD e6 wagon. This need for a "forced computer full reset by totally cutting off power from the 12v battery" appears as a common cure for computer errors in several/most/all (?) EVs, especially those controls associated with charging. The right size of ring-and-open spanner should be added to the essential tools kit.

 

[pollenface]

This was taken from the Kia web site, but this is the recommend process on all cars really.
"If you need to REMOVE your 12 volt battery, then disconnect the black negative terminal first, then followed by the red positive terminal.
When refitting or reconnecting the battery, do it in the reverse order.
Fit the red positive terminal first, then followed by the black negative terminal”.
If you are leaving the battery in place ( and you will be in this case ) and only want to perform a "Full System Reset" to the whole 12 volt system, then just remove the black negative terminal for about 5 - 10 minutes, then refit and tighten is absolutely the right thing to do, as kindly pointed out by @N2STY .

The reason being is that it's possible to short circuit the 12v battery if you get a spanner on to the POSITIVE terminal then accidentally tap the other end of the spanner against a conductive bit of metal in your engine bay while the NEGATIVE is still attached.

 

[Lovemyev]

I know ?.

 

[Tiny Tom]

As you have NO delay charge facilities internally on the Gen 1 we can discount that.
I am assuming you have a Smart untethered wall box at home of course, because you mention tying to use the “Boost Button” that is not responding to your command ?.
If I am correct, I was considering if you had a delay time set up for “Off Peak” charging times, but if I understand it correctly, the “Boost” button should over ride any delay time settings anyway ???.
You are using the SAME type 2 cable at home and for use on a public charger, just worth bearing in that one in mind for now then !.
But I think you said you tried using another 7 Kw public post with a tethered cable and that did not work either ?.
So, you have now tried the three pin Granny cable and that will not work either.
Very long shot, but you could try plugging in your Granny cable into your neighbours house next door ?.
At least this totally eliminates your house electrics ??.
If all these fail, then the only other suggestion would be trying to collect a charge from a local CCS rapid charger, if you have one close enough ?.
If this works, then this would suggest the problem is with the car on the A/C charging side maybe ???.
D/C rapid charging uses more direct route to charge the HV battery and the A/C side ( like used for your wall box / public / Granny at home etc ) is not required.
It does sound like an issue for the dealer to investigate to be honest.
Once the dealer has established the fault and reported back to MG themselves, they will authorise the dealer to order the necessary parts ( if required ).
The dealer could offer you a loan car, but if not available, they can contact MG after sales who can grant a loan car from a local hire company.
I found myself in a similar situation when we had a brake problem on our Gen1 model about 18 months ago.
MG after sales granted us a hire car until the two replacement parts arrived and was then quickly installed by the dealership.
The issue was resolved and the hire car returned, just three days short of one month !.

Seems like I'm in the same boat 3 Yr old mk1 zs ev. Not charging on granny or fast charging but fine with rapid charging so I assume its the AC port that's the problem. Hope its covered by warranty and doesn't take too long to solve.
Thanks

 

[CoolDudePT]

Thankyou so much. That did the trick. Really appreciate the help and to all others who gave input.

Yay!

 

[Oxleybrew]

Yay!

Just had the same problem "connected but not charging" I was starting to get worried then read this post, disconnected the battery for 10 mins all good . Thank You All

 

[fred12345]

Just had the same problem "connected but not charging" I was starting to get worried then read this post, disconnected the battery for 10 mins all good . Thank You All

?? Thank you for not just dropping the question without bothering to check other threads first. Some people turn up once and just drop their question that is already answered 10 times or it's in the instruction manual ...