Chrisdriving
Established Member
Would be interesting to know, the RWD cars are what 170kW max?
So we are looking at double the power draw.
So we are looking at double the power draw.
That presumes the pack wasn't originally designed for the XPower. I think it was and cooling sized accordingly as it came out within a year of the original launch.Mmm have we had a pack tear down yet? I am convinced the battery is different, i suspect its using bigger interconnects and relays etc. also on mass the batteries would have been matched to their operation , to then ask the battery to pull double the amps and then slap a warranty on it ? I suspect the may at the very least have picked a slightly diff chem , or cooling. Im yet to have cooling issues slow the car down. im talking some hard driving too. Im leaning on some differences without doubt. Capacity, same yes, uprated interconnects yes, different chem , or cream of crop cells.
4.6! ? Get rid! ?On the way back from my service today, I managed to find a bit of clear road and saw 4.6 to 60mph at both 60% and 50%
Edit: Forgot to turn off ESC
Strange how turning off traction control made a huge difference at low battery percentage??View attachment 28377
35% charge (it's a coincidence that my phone was also 35%), could only get 6s with ecs on, turned it off and got 3.78.
Does feel slower than higher battery though, my stomach didn't go over.
It may have made a big difference at high percentage too, I've not timed any other launchesStrange how turning off traction control made a huge difference at low battery percentage??
The power curve / how its delivered would be more interesting to see. I'd personally like to have more from the rear as I don't think they've quite nailed the bias between them. Remember that they are not linked, so the front is only really assisting.Was just having a look at the certificate of conformity and it has 2 power values for the electric motors
Maximum net power Front:150kW at 7000rpm Rear:170kW at 6000rpm
Maximum 30 minutes power Front:68kW at 8000rpm Rear:84kW at 8000rpm
No idea what this means in the real World, but interesting that the front and rear motors are giving max output at different rpm
How did you time it? That in its own is still 1 second quicker than mine.On the way back from my service today, I managed to find a bit of clear road and saw 4.6 to 60mph at both 60% and 50%
Edit: Forgot to turn off ESC
I haven't tested between on or off. I've always had it on. I've tried playing around a little with it off, but I haven't really felt the need. Granted I'm mid 40's now and luckily got to my stupid stuff in fun rear wheel drive and hot hatches from the late 70's and through the 90's when there weren't all the cameras around. I miss cars which allowed you to make your own decisions. I find this like driving the old Daytona arcade game when the steering wheel used to try and add weight.Strange how turning off traction control made a huge difference at low battery percentage??
Not sure if you get the 7 year warranty there like we do. I don't expect the car to last past that anyway and see all these more modern cars as a through away item at 10 years. I'd say the motors and controls will be going into custom builds once the car falls apart. Hopefully batteries will be a lot cheaper by then too.Mmm have we had a pack tear down yet? I am convinced the battery is different, i suspect its using bigger interconnects and relays etc. also on mass the batteries would have been matched to their operation , to then ask the battery to pull double the amps and then slap a warranty on it ? I suspect the may at the very least have picked a slightly diff chem , or cooling. Im yet to have cooling issues slow the car down. im talking some hard driving too. Im leaning on some differences without doubt. Capacity, same yes, uprated interconnects yes, different chem , or cream of crop cells.
I generally don't launch this and normally just drive sensible. But........ I've paid a premium for the sports model; it should perform as it was intended regardless of how I chose drive it. I believe I have an issue with the car, so trying to get it sorted. MG dealer say there is no issue, but if it can't get any where near the performance it should, then I would've gone for a different, cheaper model. I only bought this one as it was supposed to be quick.Certainly sounds like BMS managing cell voltage drop, my Model 3 will pretty much do the same 0 to 60 regardless of SOC, there is no power limit even under 10%.
I want an X Power but no interest in keep pushing the 0 to 60 so this would be of no concern to me, i spend 95% of my time in chill mode on the Tesla and would be in normal with a light foot on the X Power equally.
But will follow with interest.
Battery % | available power | 0-100 | Launch available | regen | Temp | |
10 | 7 | |||||
19 | 64 | 7 | not effective | |||
24 | 89 | 5.9 | 66 | seemed ok | ||
27 | 6 | |||||
29 | 6 | |||||
29 | 6 | |||||
34 | 5.7 | |||||
47 | 5.4 | |||||
56 | 5.1 | 66 | sport esc off | |||
56 | 5.3 | 66 | sport esc off | |||
57 | 5.4 | 66 | sport esc on | |||
60 | 5 | |||||
68 | 4.8 | |||||
70 | 5.3 | |||||
79 | 5.6 | 66 | custom sport | 9 | ||
84 | 5 | |||||
98 | 3.9 |
How do you film it? Its a bit hard on your own and trying to use the phone. I also don't want to get caught by police. Does track mode have any timing? From what I have seen there really isn't much use to it.It's better to film the speedo and time the video with a crono. Just play the video at 0.25x of speed so you can be more precise.
The speedo is on par with GPS. Take the time from 1 to 100.
I managed 4.0 sec at 65% charge. Sport ESC ON.
Absolutely, I'd like to think that we would all be aware that the traction is essential at laying it down on the road, however, MG have given the performance of 3.8 seconds, it should be able to achieve this is in standard form on a good road surface. Obviously, you're not going to hit it on a wet / gravel surface. This is more about getting benchmarks across a wider range of vehicles and situations. I'd imagine Bricktop will be getting some nice results on a sticky track. To be honest, I think I have an issue with mine, so trying to get a benchmark so I can go back to the dealer with proof.I think you also need to look at tyres , road surfaces , condition's etc etc
So many factors that make up your 0-100km/ 62mph times ..
I’ve noticed trying to push 320kw /600nm through stock tires has varied results ..
I’m always rocketing off at the lights ( some say it gets old but nope when you leave that high end Audi or 340 kw R8 Holden club sport wondering what just happened)
While I’ve not timed my 0-62mph times I would say 8 times out of 10 I’ve lost traction to some degree be it terrible and esc traction control is struggling to keep traction to small chirps in the dry..
Any loss of traction is going to negatively affect times either through slippage or esc fighting to keep traction
Better tyres will help traction in all situations ( pilot sport 5s will be a massive upgrade) be it straight line performance and handling.
but be aware there’s a limit unless you’re going to put super wide boots on it say 265 or 275 (which is obviously not possible without flared guards ) there are limitations..
Most cars pushing anywhere near the power the X power is are on wider tires.