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Tethered. I’m not worried about it though. Even the Ohme app says max AC charging 6.7kW with my car selected and that’s basically what it draws. Thinking about if it can go 7.4kW but the charger thinks it can only take 6.7kW that would explain it.

Nope that’s all the car is taking. I had a Cupra Born before and that would draw 7.4kW

I’m not misunderstanding you. Mine doesn’t. I’ve never seen my EVSE go over 6.6 with my car and the car says it’s charging at about 5.8kW

Strange, perhaps they changed the spec because mine definitely can’t take 7.4kW. My last car could do so its not the charge point. I looked up the specs when I noticed it charges slower than the last car and it’s doing what it’s supposed to.

I’ve got an SE and a 7.4kW (32A) charger. Off the top of my head the max the charger states is 6.6kW and the car reports it’s charging at 5.8kW which must be due to losses. It’s the 51 kWh battery, so the 6.6 kW charge rate is correct.

The number of times that one has caught me out! I find it utterly baffling how it’s been decided that all these safety systems that just aren’t technically ready yet have to be defaulted on. I don’t blame MG so don’t get annoyed at them LKA is basically dangerous. It’s terrible on all cars...

Apparently that’s the sweet spot but probably not practical for most people. If you have the SE it will likely cause problems with the battery % indicator if you don’t go to 100% once a week or so. I can charge for free at work so have come up with a compromise that works well for me. I charge...

Jeff Dahn’s research says otherwise but they should last at least twice as long as NMC so still nothing to worry about. https://batteryuniversity.com/article/bu-808-how-to-prolong-lithium-based-batteries

Yep, I don’t think it’s anything to worry about so long as you run it down to <10% then fully charge every 6 months and charge to 100% once a week or so. LFP batteries don’t have much of a voltage change between fully charged and flat. If you don’t fully charge it frequently and near discharge...

Try unlocking the car twice. Sometimes mine won’t open and I have to press unlock on the key fob a second time. If I push the lower right of the flap it normally opens then.

They said they couldn’t find anything wrong.

The SE in the UK is R33 but the Trophy is R59. Should be on or the other though.

Congratulations. If it’s from an MG4 dealer try to insist they update the software to R33 before you collect it. Fixes a few issues and seems very stable to me.

Tell him to buy it then glue something into the USB port so they can’t never update it!! ?

I think it’s mostly down to so much new technology being involved. Everyone is starting almost from scratch. A lot of the driver assistance stuff just isn’t ready yet, but manufacturers are being forced to put them in. If the ID.3 didn’t have lane assist or front assist I’d not have anything...

One important tip for the OP though: If you go for an ID.3 (and I’m not saying you shouldn’t, I liked mine), make sure you test drive it at high speed on the motorway. The ID.3 I test drove juddered at high speed as if a wheel was out of balance. The new one I got didn’t. So assumed it was just...

Doubt we’d have much to say. Both got lemons of different cars. However, Volkswagen are historically perceived as reliable cars and they aren’t. They are riding on their past. If you buy an MG you’re expecting to be let down but both score about the same. Cupra are at the bottom… which makes me...

My first EV was an ID.3, followed by a Cupra Born. To drive the MG4 feels like something in between the two. I didn’t have any reliability issues with the ID.3 but loads with the Born (wish i never swapped to it), which is basically the same car in a Spanish frock. If I had a Time Machine...

It’s probably not coming from where you think. Mine has the same thing but it’s coming from the bit where the interior light is on the roof. Push that area in and it stops. Sounds like the passenger the B pillar for the driver and the driver side B pillar for the passenger! Mine is booked in to...

Used to be that you need a months worth of half hourly readings before they let you switch to a smart tariff, but may have changed. It’s certainly worth looking at getting your ducks in a row.