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You need a SMET2 smart meter and one of the compatible chargers or a compatible car to switch to IOG. If you aren’t already with Octopus then you’re probably better starting a switch to them with a standard tariff first. If you don’t have a SMET2 meter then ask them to fit one as soon as you’re...

Since the Ohme has no API integration, the easiest way to make sure it doesn’t cut the power a 100% is to tell you want to add more than you need. I just add an extra 10%.

I’ve had a little look under my car and can’t see anything obviously wrong. I know this is a common problem but am struggling to understand why it even matters (short of it coming off). Why is this actually a concern? Does it tend to break off or something like that?

Good luck!

My advice would be to take it back in and insist that a technician come with you and demonstrate the problem to them at a rapid charger. Then tell them you don’t want it back until they can demonstrate it working on it. There is clearly a fault with the car that they have done something to fix...

Couple of things you could try… After starting the charge on the charger press ‘start charging’ on the car screen or try locking the car.

Mine has a steering column rattle and a sort of bump in the feel when turning to centre from about 180 degrees right. It’s booked in to be looked at under warranty.

Yeah, need to get it sorted really. It’s also go a rattle from the overhead panel that contains the interior light and glasses holder. Took me bloody ages to work out where it was coming from as it sounded like it’s from the passenger side and nobody I asked could hear it. Eventually one of my...

Mine has a rattle from the steering column. Seems to be worse with the wheel turned around the amount needed to turn at a junction. It’s also got a sort lumpy feeling when turning it back to the centre if it was near full lock (like a bump in the mechanism). I’ve not bothered booking it in yet.

Were you using cruise control? It could be that you had it in TJA mode instead of ACC so it would be trying to steer for you as well as maintain the speed. I doubt it’s that as you’d have felt the steering wheel moving on its own but it would otherwise do as you described. With lane assist off...

I would say much stronger, especially at higher speeds

Blimey, you got yourself a good fix there! ?

Me too. Though I’m really not a fan of the move towards shoving everything on a touchscreen that Tesla started and everyone else is copying. One of the things I much prefer with the MG4 over the Cupra Born I had is that it’s easier to live with ergonomically. Other than that the Model 2 seems...

I think the LFP pack only has a 250Wh bottom buffer to stop it being completely discharged if you run out of charge. They are a lot more tolerant of low SoC so don’t need it. I’ve read the same thing, that they initially degrade faster but after that initial drop they degrade much slower than...

Mine were at 2.7 so changed them to 2.5 as it states for low load levels.

Mine is always on normal. It’s an SE. It does seem a bit better now the tyre pressure is a bit lower. I’ve not been on the motorway yet since so don’t know if it has helped it from getting sucked in passing lorries yet ? Not just me then!

The tyres were a bit overinflated at 2.7 bar instead of 2.5 so will see if that has any effect. The under tray looks okay though.

That’s a good point will check that too!

Nah, I can’t stand lane assist. First thing I do when starting the car is turn the bloody thing off! Ta for the suggestion though.

It only does it when it’s windy or going past lorries on the motorway. It doesn’t pull or anything and goes in a straight line under normal conditions. The last time I checked the tyres was when it was colder so they could be a little firm. Will check them. Thanks for the suggestions though all.