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I have no issue with the brakes. Sometimes a perceived problem is derived from an inadvertent comparison with another car that is driven regularly. In the co!d weather recently the excellent (electric) defrost of windows and then the whole car is so much better than any ICE car.

With Gen1 cars you can see the flap open when in the drivers seat.

Well I have the older shorter range model purchased January 2020 and I can honestly say that we have had none of those problems. One door handle, and that's it.

Coulomb is right, John Sauve is only charging at 3kW when not at home. Use tethered chargers which use both parts of the socket.

It could be a bit of a problem if you're expecting your car to be charged for trip and it hasn't been!

I understand the latest podpoint has protection against the risk of "floating neutral" supply which is important for EV chargers. Others may have it too.

Difficult question. I was always told Koni are very good. But you need to get the right model of shock absorber to fit. Find a sports or tuning specialist supplier near you.

Most people like it reasonably soft, but it could do with better dampers. Change to uprated shock absorbers on all wheels.

Its the MG badge that gets brighter and less bright in a breathing pattern as you charge. Rate of breathing is driven by rate of charge. Simples!

I would try a 12V battery disconnect to see if a system re-boot would help. Worth a try.

I don't think the P light comes on when in autohold? As Zoomy says, they are different states. I have not tried it, but I presume when in Park, you can press the accelerator all you like but nothing will happen.

Dave, are you sure you did not flick "ACC re-engage" on the left bottom lever when signalling left on the indicators? Of course that doesn't explain the power loss. I assume you did not push the power off button? I suppose if you took it to MG they could interrogate the computer which might show...

I think auto-hold does have an issue in the about half- second delay while the brake disengages. This inclines the driver to accelerate more, thus the car jumps forward. This is particularly obvious if you usually do not use auto-hold, like me.

That is the internal warning of something approaching the rear flank of the car. It is nothing to do with the car warning pedestrians etc of an approaching car.

My Mk 1 does not emit a noise when reversing. (UK)

The first picture in Joebar's account appears to show a U/J with a missing circlip which means the needle roller cage is free to fall out of the yoke. In a steering component this is lethal, and shows a real quality control problem. The other issue where the height adjuster is improperly fixed...

If its the UJ's, then surely you should not be using the car?

Looming at the pictures, it seems the fixing bolts include a thick rubber washer, probably to reduce vibration on the steering wheel. Tightening these bolts will obviously reduce the damping effect, although that may not matter. This may also explain why the noise returns.

MacD241 surely your car is not fit for purpose and should be rejected back to your dealer on that basis.

take it back to the dealer!