I have no issue with the brakes. Sometimes a perceived problem is derived from an inadvertent comparison with another car that is driven regularly.
In the co!d weather recently the excellent (electric) defrost of windows and then the whole car is so much better than any ICE car.
Well I have the older shorter range model purchased January 2020 and I can honestly say that we have had none of those problems. One door handle, and that's it.
I understand the latest podpoint has protection against the risk of "floating neutral" supply which is important for EV chargers. Others may have it too.
Difficult question.
I was always told Koni are very good.
But you need to get the right model of shock absorber to fit.
Find a sports or tuning specialist supplier near you.
I don't think the P light comes on when in autohold? As Zoomy says, they are different states. I have not tried it, but I presume when in Park, you can press the accelerator all you like but nothing will happen.
Dave, are you sure you did not flick "ACC re-engage" on the left bottom lever when signalling left on the indicators?
Of course that doesn't explain the power loss.
I assume you did not push the power off button?
I suppose if you took it to MG they could interrogate the computer which might show...
I think auto-hold does have an issue in the about half- second delay while the brake disengages. This inclines the driver to accelerate more, thus the car jumps forward.
This is particularly obvious if you usually do not use auto-hold, like me.
That is the internal warning of something approaching the rear flank of the car.
It is nothing to do with the car warning pedestrians etc of an approaching car.
The first picture in Joebar's account appears to show a U/J with a missing circlip which means the needle roller cage is free to fall out of the yoke. In a steering component this is lethal, and shows a real quality control problem.
The other issue where the height adjuster is improperly fixed...
Looming at the pictures, it seems the fixing bolts include a thick rubber washer, probably to reduce vibration on the steering wheel. Tightening these bolts will obviously reduce the damping effect, although that may not matter. This may also explain why the noise returns.
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