Where did you get the info about it being a handshake issue caused by the MG?
I am curious because as I understand it, the problem is caused by non-compliance at the Tesla end where additional information is sent/expected that confuses the whole process. I have seen a lot of the reverse...
The problem is that all CCS chargers are not the same. Some are more compatible than others... Who then gets the responsibility for fixing the problems and what is to stop a charger company or operator from implementing some new feature that breaks that compatibility? Or the car manufacturer...
Yep and that included the recommendation to pour waste engine oil down the drain - from a 1950's Riley Owners manual! I'll report back when I get the upgrade done.
As I understand it the only PFL cars that need a new CCU are those SR versions. It appears that the LR PFL can have a software upgrade. My PFL LR is booked in for the upgrade in 10 days time. We shall see.
The problem is that the charging standards are widely open to interpretation. This used to be the case with the type 2 where I could design a type 2 charger that would work with all the local chargers near me but failed in Brighton for example which had different charger hardware that behaved...
You are right and I probably did not explain myself well. Rapid charging is fine within limits. Having seen what can happen when it is used when the battery is almost totally discharged - I would not risk the battery with a rapid immediately. If it is the only charger then you have no...
As an analogy it is very confusing. The long and the short of it is that the key point with maintaining a good battery is to keep the cells in balance and that only happens in the MG5 after the battery has been charged to 100%. If you don't do this the cells will not be balanced and the load...
First thing is that the SOC is not very accurate and is dependent on lots of things including temperature. It is very hard to measure as the battery discharge curve is almost flat. Coulomb counting is about the only real way but that is also quite complex. Same affect that you see on power...
That will be the battery voltage on its own which is below the threshold and is why it won't start (connect the HV pack). When the DCDC is energised, the voltage should be around 13-14v and then the HV pack is connected. If it can't be jumpstarted then I suspect the battery was faulty which is...
Contactless payments only work if the total amount of contactless transactions made is less than £300. As soon as you go over this , the card needs to be inserted and pinn'd to reset the limit. Fine when in a shop etc but at a charger that only has a contactless reader, the card cannot be used...
The main problem is caused by the fact that the battery provides the only source of power when the start/stop is pressed and is showing the yellow led. If the car is lights etc are then used, it can drain the battery quite quickly especially if auto lights and so on are on. The dealer had this...
Tight fit but it is the black lead that needs to be removed as that is the main feed to the car and disconnecting that is sufficient to reset the car. Removing the whole terminal from the battery causes the current sensor - black rectangular box - to have to go through a recalibration process...
Just replaced the m6 nut on the battery terminal with a M6 thredded knob that can be undone by hand without a spanner should the need arise. I then cable tied the original nut around the terminal so i didn't loose it. Means I can disconnect and reset the car without the need of a 10mm spanner...
While I waiting for an OHME charger install so I can go on Octopus intelligent GO, I charge my pre-FL MG5 with a granny using a BG Electrical Smart switch programmed for the Go cheap tariff. Just plug in the car. 1230 arrives and the granny starts charging. At 430 the granny switches off and...
The main difference is that wile the AC J1772 signalling is via deicated wires - cp in particular, the signalling is done over the AC power lines in the same way you can run Ethernet over the mains sockets in the home. This can be very fussy in terms compared to the AC version but both can...
If you reset the 12v supply, disconnect the black wire that sits on the rectangular sensor only. There is no need to undo the battery terminal itself. Make sure that everything is off to prevent/reduce any sparks. After the reset, don't be surprised if a lot of error messages saying the front...
The type 2 standard has several communications protocols associated with it that tell the onboard charger in the car how much power it take so that it doesn't melt the cable or set fire to things.
With a tethered charger (attached cable) the cable should be capable of taking the maximum...
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