Anyone need brake pads yet?

@Bricktop X PWR Is that your dog guarding your bikes in your avatar?

He looks pissed at having yet another photo being taken of him ?

'She' was a natural born poseur and actually in that shot 'just wandered into the frame' (Again!) ?

From a pup, extremely obliging to me in the photographic department!

I have literally hundreds of videos and images of Seren that I still refer to on a daily basis, despite her having passed away April 23.
I still really miss her.☹️

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Back to brake pads...

... the Euro7 regulations that will come in during the next few years will have limits on particulates for EVs as well as ICE cars and will specifically legislate around tyre and brake particulates. This could force manufacturers to change materials and that could lead to harder tyres with less grip and shorter life pads, all depends what the material options are.

As EVs become more prevalent I expect brake pad makers will hike prices anyway to compensate for reducing business and lower competition levels.
 
Why neutral ?
If you roll the car in N then you're isolating the HV battery from the wheels, the current generated by the rotation of the motor has nowhere to go so it can damage the controller/inverter circuitry.
From the manual re-towing:
"DO NOT tow the vehicle with any of the driving wheels in contact with the road surface, this will avoid electric drive transmission damage. When it is necessary to temporarily push or tow the vehicle from a dangerous situation or onto the transporter, the speed must remain below 3 mph and be completed with in 3 minutes."
What bolloks is that , from when i leave my garage at 4 am with no traffic its all downhill so i put it in neutral all the way doing speed of40- 70kms and do 5 kms every dsy and arrive there still at 100% charge . Car is a cab and has done 85k kms . In N there is no electricity generated by the motor so cannot damage anything .
 
In N there is no electricity generated by the motor so cannot damage anything .
Sorry, not true if the motor has a permanent magnet. As far as I know, all MGs use permanent magnet motors. But the motor controller can deal with this when in neutral. It's not a zero power option, but compared with actually driving, it's very low.

Just don't turn off the car when coasting.
 
I always thought 'they' were referring to damage being caused to the motors by towing the car, if the car has no power (bricked) or not switched on.

I'm sure the handbrake being on, would stop them, but they have plastic skids to drag cars along don't they? and it's only usually a few feet, just enough to get it on the flatbed.

I regularly put the car into neutral at 70mph as part of my 'disc clean' routine.

Never gave it a second a second thought tbh.

Much cleverer people than I have already figured it out!
 
What bolloks is that , from when i leave my garage at 4 am with no traffic its all downhill so i put it in neutral all the way doing speed of40- 70kms and do 5 kms every dsy and arrive there still at 100% charge . Car is a cab and has done 85k kms . In N there is no electricity generated by the motor so cannot damage anything .
Really?

"So, having debunked the myth that urban driving gives the best range, another mythical idea I have come across is that you can increase your range by coasting. By “coasting,” people mean putting the vehicle into neutral and simply rolling down hills. In electric vehicles, although there is a selector, which is similar in appearance to an automatic gearbox, there is no gearbox or clutch of any kind in an electric vehicle. The motor is permanently connected to the driving wheels and the only gear is a permanent reduction gear to provide the required level of torque at the driving wheels. In an ICE car, the engine has to be started, so, cannot be permanently connected to the driving wheels. The neutral position actually disconnects the engine from the driveshafts, and the “reverse” position actually uses a gear to turn the driveshafts in the opposite direction, while the engine, of course, always spins in the same direction. In an electric vehicle, the “reverse” position operates an electrical switch to reverse the polarity of the motor to make it spin backwards. It is, I have found from my own experience, an alarming feature of electric vehicles that they accelerate just as quickly in reverse as in drive — though, thankfully, the top speed is generally software limited to about 30 mph in reverse.

In an electric vehicle, putting the selector into neutral does not disconnect the motor, but is, again, an electrical device, which isolates the motor from the control system so that the motor just spins freely, with neither drive nor regenerative braking. So, putting your electric vehicle into neutral and coasting does not allow the vehicle to roll more freely, as mechanical losses from the drivetrain remain unaltered. If you are going downhill faster than you would if coasting, then you are using some current from the battery. If you are going at exactly the same speed as you would if you were coasting, then even though your selector is in drive, you will not be using any current. And if you’re going slower than you would be if coasting, then regenerative braking will come into play, and you will be recharging your battery while going downhill. That being the case, there is no advantage in putting your car into neutral, and you may even be missing out on some much-needed recharging. If you actually use the brake to control your speed while coasting, then you are converting your kinetic energy into wasted heat rather than converting it into electrical energy for charging your battery, so this is actually less efficient.

The only time it would be more efficient to select “neutral” rather than “drive” is when stopped with your handbrake on, as even with your foot off the accelerator pedal, a low current is generally fed to the motor. This would be taking power from your battery with no movement, and so reducing your range. The same does not apply to using the brake pedal, as the motor management system cuts out any current to the motor when the brake is applied.

Another issue is, if you keep your vehicle from rolling back while stopped on a hill by using the accelerator pedal rather than holding it with the brake, you are taking energy from the battery, without moving, so are reducing range — and you might also damage your motor, as you are passing current through a single motor winding while the motor is not moving. In an ICE car, holding the car on a hill using the motor might burn out your clutch, but in an EV, it might burn out the motor."
 
What bolloks is that , from when i leave my garage at 4 am with no traffic its all downhill so i put it in neutral all the way doing speed of40- 70kms and do 5 kms every dsy and arrive there still at 100% charge . Car is a cab and has done 85k kms . In N there is no electricity generated by the motor so cannot damage anything .
I look forward to your next post about your blown inverter. :LOL:
 
I always thought 'they' were referring to damage being caused to the motors by towing the car, if the car has no power (bricked) or not switched on.

I'm sure the handbrake being on, would stop them, but they have plastic skids to drag cars along don't they? and it's only usually a few feet, just enough to get it on the flatbed.

I regularly put the car into neutral at 70mph as part of my 'disc clean' routine.

Never gave it a second a second thought tbh.

Much cleverer people than I have already figured it out!
Yes that advice is not to roll the car in N when it is turned off for towing. N can be used whenever you like when the car is on.
 

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