Dead MG4 This Morning

It was mine that got bricked by not charging it but luckily I got my money back. I have now bought a replacement by a "better" manufacturer and put a reoccurring reminder in the diary on my phone to remind me to re-charge it every two months.

This is the replacement one which is on offer during Amazon Prime Day.
 
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It was mine that got bricked by not charging it but luckily I got my money back. I have now bought a replacement by a "better" manufacturer and put a reoccurring reminder in the diary on my phone to remind me to re-charge it every two months.

This is the replacement one which is on offer during Amazon Prime Day.
Which one was it that got bricked?
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
It was mine that got bricked by not charging it but luckily I got my money back. I have now bought a replacement by a "better" manufacturer and put a reoccurring reminder in the diary on my phone to remind me to re-charge it every two months.

This is the replacement one which is on offer during Amazon Prime Day.
Hopefully it wasnt This One you returned. Really pleased with mine, not needed on the MG4 yet but my youngest boys girlfriend left her lights on in her Micra resulting in flat battery on Saturday evening. I triumphantly got the Gooloo jump starter out, soaking up the skeptical looks as the charger is sooo small. One minute later they are standing with jaws open as the car starts immediately, could not be simpler or more convenient to use.

Cracking bit of kit and £47.99 today on Prime Day, bargain.
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Me too as that's the same brand, but different model, that I've ordered. They come up well in comparison videos against the Noco and others
 
Which one was it that got bricked?

Hopefully it wasnt This One you returned. Really pleased with mine, not needed on the MG4 yet but my youngest boys girlfriend left her lights on in her Micra resulting in flat battery on Saturday evening. I triumphantly got the Gooloo jump starter out, soaking up the skeptical looks as the charger is sooo small. One minute later they are standing with jaws open as the car starts immediately, could not be simpler or more convenient to use.

Cracking bit of kit and £47.99 today on Prime Day, bargain.
Don't panic. It was a Ring branded one that got bricked. It was on offer at the time and as a recognised brand I thought it would be OK.
 
This might be a good place to ask a question. My battery booster is a lead-acid jump-start kit but I would imagine the operation is the same as these lithium ones. My problem is I can't find the instructions and I've forgotten the exact procedure.

Last time I used it was four years ago, and I had the instructions then, and I remember that one of the terminals had to be connected to the car's bodywork and not to the terminal on the battery. There was a stern warning that connecting the two crocodile clips to the battery terminals could damage the car. I think there was also a procedure about which terminal had to be connected first.

I intend to charge up the lead-acid contraption and take it with me when I park the car at the airport. Can anyone advise me of how I should use it, in the (hopefully unlikely) event of Caliban being moribund when I get back from holiday?
 
I've only ever seen instructions to connect to the bodywork/earthing point as an alternative if you can't connect to a negative terminal. When jumping from another vehicles battery which is basically what your jump starter is replacing you'd usually connect positive/red first, then the black, turn on your jump starter, then start your car.
 
I've only ever seen instructions to connect to the bodywork/earthing point as an alternative if you can't connect to a negative terminal. When jumping from another vehicles battery which is basically what your jump starter is replacing you'd usually connect positive/red first, then the black, turn on your jump starter, then start your car.
Yes, positive first connected to the battery. The only reason I've heard for connecting the negative to the bodywork or other earthing point rather than the battery is that when connecting you may get sparks and that those might not be a good idea if the battery is venting gases. I haven't jump started anything for ages but I always connected to the battery terminals, but I can see why it might be suggested to find an alternative earth.
 
So I could use it as one would use another ICE car to jump-start an ICE (connect positive first then connect negative) or connect the negative to the bodywork.

Then what? I'd turn the key and try to turn the engine over, and keep revving it until the car's alternator had put a bit of charge into the flat battery, then take it out for a run. But this is an EV. Once the jump-start battery is connected, what do I do?
 
So I could use it as one would use another ICE car to jump-start an ICE (connect positive first then connect negative) or connect the negative to the bodywork.

Then what? I'd turn the key and try to turn the engine over, and keep revving it until the car's alternator had put a bit of charge into the flat battery, then take it out for a run. But this is an EV. Once the jump-start battery is connected, what do I do?
I can't tell you from experience as I'm still waiting for my mg4 but I'd say get in your car and the sensor in the seat should register your there now there's power from the jump starter which in turn will allow the HV battery to fire up. Leave the car on, remove the jump starter and go for a drive to allow 12v to get recharged.

I'd probably use that drive to go to Halfords or euro car parts to get yourself a battery that's actually fit for purpose. I know you shouldn't have to with it being a brand new car but it'll likely be the best £60 you'll spend, other than a new li ion jump starter, in the next few years.
 
I know but I'd be concerned stingy mg will only allow a like for like replacement as well as having to keep the car over a week to even get it approved for a warranty repair.
 
No. I had suggested a drain but I think the 5 software updates resolved the issue. Certainly showing a consistently stable voltage now, although internal temp report is way off. 85C earlier.
 
I took a screen shot - 87C
 

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