Lovemyev
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- N.Wales ZS EV ( Gen 2 ).
Hi - Can anybody explain what is the different between a wall box when it is sold as rated at either 7.0kw or 3.6kw unit.
Of course, I understand that the 7.0Kw unit can supply double the speed of the 3.6Kw unit, if the car can accept the higher load of course.
But my question is this :-
What internal components ( if any ) are interchanged to allow for the lower / higher Kw rating outputs of the units being sold.
If we use a Rolec dumb wall box as an example in my case ( steady now folks ! ).
Are still available in both ratings, either 7.0kw - 32 Amp or 3.6Kw - 16 Amp versions.
As I can see, there are only three main components inside of these unit's.
A communication module / RCBO breaker and the main contactor.
The communication module sold by Rolec is 32 Amps ( fixed no 16 Amp Version ) the contactor sold by them, is also single rated item at 32 Amps.
The RCBO is the same unit for both units as well ????.
A Type 2 cable IS sold as either a 16 Amp or 32 Amp carrying capacity, so is this the only difference then between both of these units then ????.
It would appear then ( please correct me if I am wrong ) that there appears to be NO internal controls that is built into the unit to make them either 7.00 or 3.60 Kw's ?.
Why not just stick with the single unit then ???.
You may think that this is a strange question to ask ?.
But ever since my car has received the latest BMS update about two weeks ago, when plugging in to charge it has taken on a strange behaviour pattern.
About 70% of the time, when plugged in to commence the charge, it will charge at the normal and expected 7.0Kw / hour.
For the other 30% of the time, it will commence the charge ( and continue the charging ) at only about 3.8 Kw's ?.
The finger of blame is firmly being pointed at the wall box !.
However, I am having a real hard time agreeing with this theory, as the wall box has never been a problem prior to the update.
Today, we returned from a short trip to the super market.
I placed the car on charge and straight away, it reported a charge time to complete at about 4 hours, given the remaining mileage on the car, I knew this was incorrect.
I then checked the house energy monitor and it verified my suspicious, because it reported a consumption of only 3.7 Kw.
So, I unlocked the car and ended the charge.
Re-plugged in the car and started the charge again within about 3 minutes, this time the car reported the charge would complete at 2 hours because the car was now pulling the expected 7.0 Kw's !.
Now maybe you can understand why I am questioning the wall box, if there was an item inside of the wall box or a issue with the cable that COULD reduce the power supplied to the car then this COULD be the reason why I am witnessing this behaviour, but in reality I think the problem lies with either the software of the BMS or the built charger in the car.
The car is performing just fine otherwise, I have owned the car long enough now to understand how it ticks.
Why it behaves like this NOW on a intermittent basis, I have absolutely NO idea.
This present situation makes it very difficult to judge just what length of charge I need, when I am using a delayed charging method of charging when charging on "Off Peak" electric !.
Am I getting 3.6 Kw's or 7.1 Kw's in the middle of the night ???.
I could well end up with only 50% of the range I needed to suit my needs because the car charges at the lower rate and leaves me short of range for my trip.
Yes, I could over come the issue by charging to 100% every single time, but I don't need or want that !.
Any opinions on either wall box ( other than Rolec is crap ) or the car would be gladly received folks.
Cheers.
Of course, I understand that the 7.0Kw unit can supply double the speed of the 3.6Kw unit, if the car can accept the higher load of course.
But my question is this :-
What internal components ( if any ) are interchanged to allow for the lower / higher Kw rating outputs of the units being sold.
If we use a Rolec dumb wall box as an example in my case ( steady now folks ! ).
Are still available in both ratings, either 7.0kw - 32 Amp or 3.6Kw - 16 Amp versions.
As I can see, there are only three main components inside of these unit's.
A communication module / RCBO breaker and the main contactor.
The communication module sold by Rolec is 32 Amps ( fixed no 16 Amp Version ) the contactor sold by them, is also single rated item at 32 Amps.
The RCBO is the same unit for both units as well ????.
A Type 2 cable IS sold as either a 16 Amp or 32 Amp carrying capacity, so is this the only difference then between both of these units then ????.
It would appear then ( please correct me if I am wrong ) that there appears to be NO internal controls that is built into the unit to make them either 7.00 or 3.60 Kw's ?.
Why not just stick with the single unit then ???.
You may think that this is a strange question to ask ?.
But ever since my car has received the latest BMS update about two weeks ago, when plugging in to charge it has taken on a strange behaviour pattern.
About 70% of the time, when plugged in to commence the charge, it will charge at the normal and expected 7.0Kw / hour.
For the other 30% of the time, it will commence the charge ( and continue the charging ) at only about 3.8 Kw's ?.
The finger of blame is firmly being pointed at the wall box !.
However, I am having a real hard time agreeing with this theory, as the wall box has never been a problem prior to the update.
Today, we returned from a short trip to the super market.
I placed the car on charge and straight away, it reported a charge time to complete at about 4 hours, given the remaining mileage on the car, I knew this was incorrect.
I then checked the house energy monitor and it verified my suspicious, because it reported a consumption of only 3.7 Kw.
So, I unlocked the car and ended the charge.
Re-plugged in the car and started the charge again within about 3 minutes, this time the car reported the charge would complete at 2 hours because the car was now pulling the expected 7.0 Kw's !.
Now maybe you can understand why I am questioning the wall box, if there was an item inside of the wall box or a issue with the cable that COULD reduce the power supplied to the car then this COULD be the reason why I am witnessing this behaviour, but in reality I think the problem lies with either the software of the BMS or the built charger in the car.
The car is performing just fine otherwise, I have owned the car long enough now to understand how it ticks.
Why it behaves like this NOW on a intermittent basis, I have absolutely NO idea.
This present situation makes it very difficult to judge just what length of charge I need, when I am using a delayed charging method of charging when charging on "Off Peak" electric !.
Am I getting 3.6 Kw's or 7.1 Kw's in the middle of the night ???.
I could well end up with only 50% of the range I needed to suit my needs because the car charges at the lower rate and leaves me short of range for my trip.
Yes, I could over come the issue by charging to 100% every single time, but I don't need or want that !.
Any opinions on either wall box ( other than Rolec is crap ) or the car would be gladly received folks.
Cheers.