First edition MGZSEV 1st MOT

Well, that's 3 years with 17600 miles on the car and it just passed it's 1st MOT with Red immediate attention items as follows,
Front brake pads
Front brake disc corroded
Rear brake pads
Rear brake discs corroded
I assume the brake pads are because of the grooves worn around the discs. Not a good sign for a low mileage 3 year old car.
I honestly thought it would fail due to grooved discs. These are NOT covered by the 7 year warranty.
I have also noticed the front drivers side seat base at the side of the base has started to split, so not such hard wearing vinyl after all. Even 10 year old Fords I've owned didn't do that.
I have also discovered the rear wheel arch interior plastic covers (both sides) are split, looks like the seatbelt buckle got stuck when the seat back was pushed back up and this is the outcome. I don't think I did it but can't be certain.
Battery fully charged and equalised at -6c temperature shows full range of 140miles.
I know the range in cold weather is reduced quite a bit so hopefully range will improve in the summer.
I still like the car but I am now getting a bit wary about it's longevity.
 
Which I think make sense, but....

My Ioniq electric's brake pads and discs were like new after 3 years, so I'm not sure what MG are doing different.

Just to give a balanced view I decided to reply. I'm on my 2nd Ioniq (38kW), are your alloys pealing yet? Mine are at 17,000mls, my Hyundai dealer took pictures to send to Hyundai 2 mths ago, they haven't got back to me yet. Have any of your outer door handles fallen off yet? My o/s/r did exposing the internal mechanism so we couldn't leave it anywhere unattended. Or have you had to replace the 12v battery yet? I had to and it wasn't covered on the warranty. I was also glad to find out my Ioniq was one that didn't have a Traction battery that catches fire fitted, so luckily didn't need to have it replaced on the recall. I am on my 2nd MG, the Ioniqs were/are generally used locally. As to 'what MG are doing different'. See 'How long do EV batteries Last'. James and Kate. The car James reported on has done over 50,000mls and there was nothing wrong with them and also his battery was 97%, so all good there as well. I have liked my Ioniqs very much thats why I bought another one but my MG ZS and my MG5 have been great cars to, the Ioniq and MG do different jobs and cover my families needs well. I couldn't afford another Hyundai but the affordable MGs meant I can run 2 brand new EVs. Have a great xmas.
 
Just to give a balanced view I decided to reply. I'm on my 2nd Ioniq (38kW), are your alloys pealing yet? Mine are at 17,000mls, my Hyundai dealer took pictures to send to Hyundai 2 mths ago, they haven't got back to me yet. Have any of your outer door handles fallen off yet? My o/s/r did exposing the internal mechanism so we couldn't leave it anywhere unattended. Or have you had to replace the 12v battery yet? I had to and it wasn't covered on the warranty. I was also glad to find out my Ioniq was one that didn't have a Traction battery that catches fire fitted, so luckily didn't need to have it replaced on the recall. I am on my 2nd MG, the Ioniqs were/are generally used locally. As to 'what MG are doing different'. See 'How long do EV batteries Last'. James and Kate. The car James reported on has done over 50,000mls and there was nothing wrong with them and also his battery was 97%, so all good there as well. I have liked my Ioniqs very much thats why I bought another one but my MG ZS and my MG5 have been great cars to, the Ioniq and MG do different jobs and cover my families needs well. I couldn't afford another Hyundai but the affordable MGs meant I can run 2 brand new EVs. Have a great xmas.

I did have an issue on one of the rear alloys yes. It wasn't peeling but the corrosion was underneath the lacker in one place.

I never had any issues with the 12v battery, not even a hint.

It was the most reliable car I ever owned.

Given the choice between a cosmetic issue with a wheel and terrible software and to be stuck with a car that won't even rapid charge then I know what I would choose.
 
The ZS should be less prone to disc corrosion than other EV's. On others pressing the brake pedal increases the regen before the friction brakes kick in at higher braking levels. On the ZS there is no increase in regen when you brake, so hit the brake pedal and you are using friction brakes straight away.
There's increased regen on my mk1 when I touch the brakes - you can watch it on the power dial?

If it's cold the amount of regen showing is reduced until, presumably, the HV battery starts to warm up...
 
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There's increased regen on my mk1 when I touch the brakes - you can watch it on the power dial?

If it's cold the amount of regen showing is reduced until, presumably, the HV battery starts to warm up...
Interesting. Mine is a mk 2 LR.
Since my original comment I have done more tests in KERS 1 & 3, watching the power meter and the Amps figure and I remain unconvinced that pressing the brake pedal does anything other than use the brakes.
Always happy to be proven wrong with data, in which case I'll be asking my local dealer to fix a fault!
 
Interesting. Mine is a mk 2 LR.
Since my original comment I have done more tests in KERS 1 & 3, watching the power meter and the Amps figure and I remain unconvinced that pressing the brake pedal does anything other than use the brakes.
Always happy to be proven wrong with data, in which case I'll be asking my local dealer to fix a fault!
I've not driven the mk2 yet but I believe some test drivers reported the regen not being as strong as on the mk1
 
I've not driven the mk2 yet but I believe some test drivers reported the regen not being as strong as on the mk1
No it’s not !.
A bit more foot brake use is required on the Gen 2 model.
On a positive note, it will help reduce the rust build up from forming on the disc rotors so quickly though ! ?.
 
No it’s not !.
A bit more foot brake use is required on the Gen 2 model.
On a positive note, it will help reduce the rust build up from forming on the disc rotors so quickly though ! ?.
Silvery looking linings ?
 
I did have an issue on one of the rear alloys yes. It wasn't peeling but the corrosion was underneath the lacker in one place.

I never had any issues with the 12v battery, not even a hint.

It was the most reliable car I ever owned.

Given the choice between a cosmetic issue with a wheel and terrible software and to be stuck with a car that won't even rapid charge then I know what I would choose.

I can assure you that being stuck on the side of the road with a dead 12v battery is not 'cosmetic'. Nor is supplying cars with traction batteries that can catch fire and not being able to leave ones car out because the osr door handle fell off exposing the mechanism, is also not cosmetic. If you are going to troll MG owners about how much better other cars are, you can expect some on here to challenge you. By the way I am on my second MG over the same period as the 2 Ioniqs the MGs have been more reliable.
 
I can assure you that being stuck on the side of the road with a dead 12v battery is not 'cosmetic'. Nor is supplying cars with traction batteries that can catch fire and not being able to leave ones car out because the osr door handle fell off exposing the mechanism, is also not cosmetic. If you are going to troll MG owners about how much better other cars are, you can expect some on here to challenge you. By the way I am on my second MG over the same period as the 2 Ioniqs the MGs have been more reliable.
Qué?

I said the wheel issue was cosmetic.

I didn't have the 12v battery problem. Ever.

So no idea what the rage is about
 
Had my first MOT and 3rd service on ZS mk1 yesterday. Picked a dealer who was about 50miles away but have proven themselves reliable in the past. Deliberately did a bit of hard braking on the way to the dealership when safe to do so to remove any surface rust.

Sailed through with just a few advisories. Advised disks are lightly pitted and may need attention when pads replaced (unlikely to be for another year at least). Even tyres are fine after 28K miles.

Total cost for service and MOT was £127.07 which included the usual one year AA membership. Thought that was reasonable.
 
Had my first MOT and 3rd service on ZS mk1 yesterday. Picked a dealer who was about 50miles away but have proven themselves reliable in the past. Deliberately did a bit of hard braking on the way to the dealership when safe to do so to remove any surface rust.

Sailed through with just a few advisories. Advised disks are lightly pitted and may need attention when pads replaced (unlikely to be for another year at least). Even tyres are fine after 28K miles.

Total cost for service and MOT was £127.07 which included the usual one year AA membership. Thought that was reasonable.
I don’t think you can moan about the price of that to be totally honest !.
The full A.A. cover is probably worth about £75 - £80 and the MOT is going to be around £40 - £50 ( ish ) depending on your location in the U.K. of course.
Maths was never my strongest subject folks, but that makes the cost of the service at under £3 or even free !.
It looks like you could get grabbed for disc’s and pads next year maybe ?.
I doubt the pads will worn out by next year, but they will get replaced regardless if the discs get snagged again.
 
Yeah no complaints. To be honest we get free breakdown cover as part of the benefits of our banking account, it is the fact that I was not taken for a ride that was more important. Other garages have tried to charge for pads, disks or tyres that had plenty of life left in them or for screen wash when I had already filled it that morning. This dealer was polite, friendly and professional. They provided hot drinks and free wifi so I could work while waiting. It isn't rocket science, just good honest service.

Have an order in for a MG4 so will likely get one of those, or something else, before next MOT and service is due, but can happily move the ZS on when the time comes in the knowledge that it is sound.
 
To be honest we get free breakdown cover as part of the benefits of our banking account
Not that it really matter now anyway @WalkingBootWeather but just check the breakdown cover provided by your bank.
Does it carry the same full level of cover provided by the MG AA cover.
My son has breakdown cover with his bank, but it is only the very basic roadside assistance level.
No relay or onward travel / hire car / home start visits.
Which does make the service cost very reasonable I think.
Last year I had full cover with my car insurance with the RAC and the same level of cover with the MG Assist via the AA.
Because if this, I have removed the RAC cover from my car insurance premium and saved the £75 charges.
 
The "Go To" advisory / failure issue on MOT's on EV's has to be the rust / pitting of the brake disc's / rotors.
Lack of use of the foot brake ( due to the braking effects of regen braking ) is the real issue here.
Different models of cars ALL types and makes of cars, have there individual MOT failure "Hot Spot's" that testers can zoom in on, as part of their checks.
A very close friend of mine, who has owned his own MOT testing station ( who I served my time with over 40 years ago ) has just recently retired.
He said that he has tested SO many cars over over his long carer, that you you build up a second sense, of what car is likely to fail with on what issue, almost before raising the car on the lift for the inspection !.
Know proven failure points, happening on different makes & models, in a repetitive basis.
Good luck @Kithmo (y).
Is it being MOT'd at the main dealer, or by an independent MOT station ?.
Which would always be my chosen option TBA.
 
I have found over the years to clean up brake discs is to find a nice empty car park and drive in reverse and keep bringing car to a stop as it's the opposite to what the car normal does
Edit to add to this I would add a bit of spirited driving in regen 1 get them brakes working harder
 
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The "Go To" advisory / failure issue on MOT's on EV's has to be the rust / pitting of the brake disc's / rotors.
Lack of use of the foot brake ( due to the braking effects of regen braking ) is the real issue here.
Different models of cars ALL types and makes of cars, have there individual MOT failure "Hot Spot's" that testers can zoom in on, as part of their checks.
A very close friend of mine, who has owned his own MOT testing station ( who I served my time with over 40 years ago ) has just recently retired.
He said that he has tested SO many cars over over his long carer, that you you build up a second sense, of what car is likely to fail with on what issue, almost before raising the car on the lift for the inspection !.
Know proven failure points, happening on different makes & models, in a repetitive basis.
Good luck @Kithmo (y).
Is it being MOT'd at the main dealer, or by an independent MOT station ?.
Which would always be my chosen option TBA.
Spot on. Advisory on pitted rear discs but a pass.

I had during the week previous driven spiritedly in KERS 1 to make more use of the friction brakes and I always a precaution against disc pitting, take the car out for a couple of miles circuit of the town to dry off the discs.
 
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