Lovemyev
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- N.Wales ZS EV ( Gen 2 ).
Is this not just because regen braking is not reduced even on a full charge on the 449v?



Is this not just because regen braking is not reduced even on a full charge on the 449v?
As others have said you should reset your GOM at every charge to get more accurate readings.
The range for an ICE vehicle would be calculated on the current mpg achieved (not the manufacturer's figures), so why not base your EV range on your current performance rather than the manufacturers.I reset the trip after each charge because it gives me a more reliable indication of range, the same way I would after filling my car with fuel.
My current driving will then either increase or decrease my range and that gives me the most accurate range predictions based on real time driving.
If you are doing pretty identical types of journeys consistently then in theory keep your trip data and allow the GOM to use the previous data.The range for an ICE vehicle would be calculated on the current mpg achieved (not the manufacturer's figures), so why not base your EV range on your current performance rather than the manufacturers.
Surely resetting after every charge just then gives you the same estimation (163 miles or whatever the current figure is)
I can totally understand if you doing the same journey in a very regular basis, in fairly similar weather conditions, then naturally you feel resetting the trips is unnecessary.I am not sure why many people advocate the continual resetting of the accumulated data.
When I charge and set off on a journey I want to see the estimated range based on my current/past driving performance which I intend to continue, not based on a factory set figure under ideal conditions.
The only time I reset the accumulated data is if I know my driving is going to be considerably different ( a 200 mile motorway journey rather than going round towns for example) so it can learn my performance for that particular journey
Everyone has their own preferences of course
Why? I don't drive around oblivious to gauges/indications/GOM. I can easily see when the battery is getting low even if GOM gives contrary advice.Keep your AA recovery card close by ?.
I think I said if the upcoming journey is going to differ from that on which the current range is calculated then a reset may be in orderThis is a new trip that you have never done before, it is over the mountains and you intend to use the predicted range on the GOM without resetting your trips ?.
Okay - I am curious to learn how do you judge your remaining range then ?.Why? I don't drive around oblivious to gauges/indications/GOM. I can easily see when the battery is getting low even if GOM gives contrary advice.
Worth saying what’s been said at other times for any newbies:Okay - I am curious to learn how do you judge your remaining range then ?.
Can I guess you using the white bars on the on the HV battery gauge then ?.
If so, then why not reset the trips meters at the beginning of the longer trips ?.
At least the predicted range offered by the GOM and the HV battery indicator gauge is working on a similar basis ?.
In bright sun light, the white bars on the HV gauge can be difficult to see, so you toddle the HV battery switch that displays the GOM reading.
You have not reset the accumulative range, so the prediction is over estimated.
This could create a small problem.
Nobody is suggesting that either method used is right or wrong, it’s what ever the individual is more comfortable with.
For first owners of an EV - I would suggest a reset of the trips to avoid any confusion.
Maybe we can agree on that at least ?.
Just a shame MG don't see fit to give us a battery percentage!Worth saying what’s been said at other times for any newbies:
The HV battery gauge/white bars are not a consistent scale for how much battery there is, which makes it very difficult to use it to simply see your remaining battery percentage.
Personally I don’t even look at it because of this.
In a smallish battery EV, the precise battery remaining is so important, it’s not a good idea to rely on a rough non linear gauge.
I'm glad I'm not the only one with a knocking from the steering column, I have read somewhere in here that the tilt mechanism needs tightening.So, had a knocking on my steering wheel. Took it into local dealer. Not sorted yet. They are ordering a part. However the car is fine to drive so I do have it back. However: before the car went in my GOM would show 213 on a full charge. On my first full charge since having it back, it’s down to 156! Showing 449v. Is it simply because they’ve reset everything and the miles will come back up shortly? I don’t know if they’ve done anything with the BMS - hope not! Will speak to them Monday to see but just wondering if anyone had any thoughts?
Shawn
I have it also, like a few other owners.I'm glad I'm not the only one with a knocking from the steering column, I have read somewhere in here that the tilt mechanism needs tightening.