Thankyou and Goodnight.

I can obviously only speak for my 33 years of driving that has involved driving, as part of my job on all types of roads, 24/7, at often extreme speeds both in the UK and abroad

I can obviously only speak for my 33 years of driving that has involved driving, as part of my job on all types of roads, 24/7, at often extreme speeds both in the UK and abroad

Renault formula 1 team?
 
Maybe the odd Ferrari, McLaren and Williams back in the day.
MG might be in with a shout now though everyone would spin out on with the oil it would leave all over the track
 
the zoe isn't a bad car in itself. If you're fine with the 0 stars, then look out for these:

  • My Zoe makes noises while turning the wheels slowly or while stationary, it makes a rubbing, cracking noise. It's the plastic shell of the strut bearings that make this noise, it isn't dangerous but it will develop into a loud crack and you'll eventually have to change them.
  • The rear door stoppers also crack sometimes when closing, so check them out by opening them wide or halfway then closing them. Open them wide, wiggle them a bit until you feel the resistance of overcoming the steps being harder, and then push it harder and it should make a loud noise. This requires a replacement a repainting of the parts, just applying grease won't help.
  • Boot door squeaks when it's cold, so give that a listen.
  • Rear brakes like to rust and are expensive to change due to the fact that the disks come with the rear bearings and are pressed on the axle. Check all 4 brakes on the car especially the rears.
  • The undercarriage has some kind of plastic which extends from it to the battery. Mine is bent outwards, even though I did no offroading or came close to anything there.
  • Check the battery for damage, scratches are ok, dents are not. If you have a bluetooth OBD dongle, download CarScanner and check the state of health. Beware, some zoes show atrociously bad SoH when cold, so use it in your favour. Renault expects a degradation rate at about 1% per year and 1% per 6000 miles, if it's off by that margin you can argue for a more degraded battery. Most of the time only the BMS will set a too low number, mine showed 91,5% at the end of the summer, now it shows almost 93% after 35.000 miles and 50% DC and 50% 22kW AC.
  • Check if the wipers are aligned correctly especially on the driver's side, the factory didn't seem to care so you'll see a different setting on each zoe. It should be parallel to the A-pillar.
  • Tyre wear, especially if it has michelin tyres, chances are that it will chew on the outside of the tyres more than the middle, even if you drive with the manufacturer specified air pressure. This pattern appears both on the front and on the rear, if it resembles the same pattern you can negotiate in your favour. Also, if the car has new tyres, drive with higher pressure to alleviate this issue. An alignment issue has been excluded multiple times by my dealer.
  • check for engine/transmission noises, mine makes a noise between 25 and 30 mph and it's most hear- and feelable in neutral at around 27mph. Drive up to 30, shift into neutral until you're just below 25mph, if it's silent, then it's good. Just remember to lightly keep the brake pedal depressed to reengage drive. You can shift into neutral but you cannot shift back into drive whithout lightly tapping the brake. If in doubt, simulate it while stopped to get a hang of it and then do while driving. Or keep the car at 0kW recuperation with the brake pedal.
  • I don't know how it's in the UK, but on the LHD versions, the drivers side carpet gets all loose and the mounting points for the floor mats also like to pop out. Check these out and use it in your favour if applicable.
  • check the buttons on the steering wheel, many of the zoes have the issue that these don't react only when you press them hard, even if you feel them click. If that's the case, you'd need a new steering wheel.
  • check the sound of heatpump/AC, it shouldn't be too loud or sound harsh. It should make the buzzing noise, that's normal.

I hope this list will help you get a good deal on one and be a happy owner. If I remember anything, I'll add but this should cover all the things that I know of.
That's all really helpful, many thanks for the advice. All the best. Andy.

The risk is greatly increased as you complete more miles.
Many who say they have driven for 30 years, have only completed the mileage during that time, that others would do in 5-10 years.
Also many never drive after dark, don’t go on motorways and don‘t go out if the weather is bad. They also do not have 30 years gaining experience - but 1 year repeated 30 times.
Using your car for short shopping trips and driving the same route over and over has much less risk than driving long journeys over relatively unknown roads.
You never know when you might need the best accident protection aids and your driving needs may change, so it makes sense to go for the best available if you can.
Those that drive old classic cars generally do very low mileage in them. I would not consider regular longer journeys in a car that didn’t have the latest safety equipment and crash test certifications.
I agree with much of what you say, and I believe that I am going for the best available (according to my budget and needs). As I said, it's still safer that what I'm driving now.
I could sum up my 30 years of experience as "Drive as if everyone else is trying to kill you."

Totally agree been driving for over 30 years and for the vast majority of that time none of the cars Ive had, had any safety kit, I know things have moved on, but it's not a the be all and end all.
Loads of people in the world still driving old classics with zero safety kit. The lack of safety kit actually meant you had to be a better driver.

Was in a supermarket car park the other day and a BMW reversed into the space next to me right into the parked car behind. The driver got out and the first thing he said was my sensors didn't beep!! What happened to using your mirrors and looking over your shoulder.
I've often thought the best feature that would make a person a better driver is a large spike in the middle of the steering wheel.
 
Seat belt or no seat belt, I wouldn’t feel comfortable with a large spike in the middle of the steering wheel!
 
Totally agree been driving for over 30 years and for the vast majority of that time none of the cars Ive had, had any safety kit, I know things have moved on, but it's not a the be all and end all.
Loads of people in the world still driving old classics with zero safety kit. The lack of safety kit actually meant you had to be a better driver.

Was in a supermarket car park the other day and a BMW reversed into the space next to me right into the parked car behind. The driver got out and the first thing he said was my sensors didn't beep!! What happened to using your mirrors and looking over your shoulder.

Im sure the fire service, who have to scrape bits of people out of crashed cars, would feel differently about safety features.

Deaths on the roads over the last 30 years since cars became “safer” went from around 5000 to 1500 a year, and not just because of the govts obsession with speeding.

The safety measures on my 1990 mx5 are seatbelts. No airbags abs seatbelt tensioners ncap rating roll bar etc etc. but it gets driven less than 2k miles a year where our other cars do well over 10k a year.

A new car - you can bet im going for ncap and good safety ratings as even small cars with batteries are becoming heavier and more destructive in accidents. Offer me an MX5 1990 safety spec and im laughing in the dealers face.
 
Im sure the fire service, who have to scrape bits of people out of crashed cars, would feel differently about safety features.

Deaths on the roads over the last 30 years since cars became “safer” went from around 5000 to 1500 a year, and not just because of the govts obsession with speeding.

The safety measures on my 1990 mx5 are seatbelts. No airbags abs seatbelt tensioners ncap rating roll bar etc etc. but it gets driven less than 2k miles a year where our other cars do well over 10k a year.

A new car - you can bet im going for ncap and good safety ratings as even small cars with batteries are becoming heavier and more destructive in accidents. Offer me an MX5 1990 safety spec and im laughing in the dealers face.
I did say things have moved on and made the point that driver experience/ability has suffered because people are relying on driver aids rather than using them to assist.

Ncap is certainly a great indicator but if you read into the 4's test, at that time you will see that it was second worse in test/class for child passenger safety and 3rd worse for adult passenger.
As you have said still better than a 1990 MX-5.
 
I’ve always found it amusing that people are now reviled by the Zoe.
I get it, removal of the thorax airbags isn’t a great move, but it seems a huge overreaction to cancel orders (as I’ve seen some say they’ve done)
If you like the car, maybe use it as an opportunity to get a good deal and enjoy what is still a great EV
 
I’ve always found it amusing that people are now reviled by the Zoe.
I get it, removal of the thorax airbags isn’t a great move, but it seems a huge overreaction to cancel orders (as I’ve seen some say they’ve done)
If you like the car, maybe use it as an opportunity to get a good deal and enjoy what is still a great EV
You can’t be reviled by a car. Wait a minute, on second thoughts…. Yes my MG hates me, that’s it!
 

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