Trophy 100% charge range etc

schaud

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Hi,
Can anyone who has got a Trophy tell me what the 100% charged range is please?
Has anyone noticed if any range is lost when the car is unused for a few days? My Tesla lost 1-5 miles a day even on summer.
TIA

Dave
 
I should imagine the calculated range will be different for everyone as it uses your recent data for driving, conditions etc. Based on my battery percentage mine is showing a maximum range of 250 miles, calculated at 203 miles at 80% charge. But I'm not likely to go below 20-30 miles range left, or above 80% regularly, so that gives me a range of about 170-180 miles to work with.

I've not noticed any lost range but use the car most days for a few miles at least.

For reference I am driving in NORMAL with regen 3, ac on auto at 21 degrees, heated seat occasionally, using it like an ICE car. Energy usage normally showing at 3.9-4.0 miles per kWh.
 
Hi,
Can anyone who has got a Trophy tell me what the 100% charged range is please?
Has anyone noticed if any range is lost when the car is unused for a few days? My Tesla lost 1-5 miles a day even on summer.
TIA

Dave
After a week mine said 263 I think, week later it said 287 miles. All depends I think on how you have driven the previous drives I assume.
 

Real Range Estimation between 160 - 330 mi​

City - Cold Weather *220 mi
Highway - Cold Weather *160 mi
Combined - Cold Weather *190 mi
City - Mild Weather *330 mi
Highway - Mild Weather *205 mi
Combined - Mild Weather *260 mi

Indication of real-world range in several situations. Cold weather: 'worst-case' based on -10°C and use of heating. Mild weather: 'best-case' based on 23°C and no use of A/C. For 'Highway' figures a constant speed of 70 mph is assumed. The actual range will depend on speed, style of driving, weather and route conditions.

 
75C07B70-33DC-4B77-A7B5-7D7DE317A777.jpeg
 
I charged my trophy to 100% Sunday night and didn’t use it until this morning (Thursday) it showed the same max range at both times so no loss over 4 days.
 

Real Range Estimation between 160 - 330 mi​

City - Cold Weather *220 mi
Highway - Cold Weather *160 mi
Combined - Cold Weather *190 mi
City - Mild Weather *330 mi
Highway - Mild Weather *205 mi
Combined - Mild Weather *260 mi

Indication of real-world range in several situations. Cold weather: 'worst-case' based on -10°C and use of heating. Mild weather: 'best-case' based on 23°C and no use of A/C. For 'Highway' figures a constant speed of 70 mph is assumed. The actual range will depend on speed, style of driving, weather and route conditions.

Thanks that’s very useful
 
I've noticed that when starting off, if you switch from Normal to Eco that the range can increase by a few %. It can only ever be a best guess though.
 
I charged my trophy to 100% Sunday night and didn’t use it until this morning (Thursday) it showed the same max range at both times so no loss over 4 days.
Just a word of warning as discussed elsewhere on the forum it isn't advisable for battery health to charge a Li-Ion Battery (which is the chemistry type used in the 64 kWh mg presently) to 100% and then not use the vehicle for more than a matter of a few hours. It is down to the chemistry. By all means, charge to the recommended 80% and leave it for 4 days and if you need the full range top-off the remaining 20% the night before. The 51 kWh batteries in Standard Range MG cars have a quite different LFP battery chemistry also known as Li-FePO4 chemistry and unlike the Li-Ion of the Long Range models benefit from regular charging to 100% and the charging screen on the car doesn't even have, as far as I know, the facility to set the "Charge to 80%" limit which the LR Li-Ion cars have.
The reason for these differences is that different battery chemistries are stable under different conditions and Li-Ion is most stable at 50% charge and LFP is stable at higher states of charge up to 100% Full. In fact, Fully charging LFP Cells reinforces the cell's internal structure whereas Li-Ion is weakened by very high or very low states of charge. And before anyone comments, yes I do know that manufacturers set so call "Buffers" at the upper and lower limits of the usable capacity and when we see 0% and 100% this is only usable and not the "actual" 0% and 100%, but it is very close and as battery packs age then individual cells can hit their physical 100% state of charge and be seriously damaged. I also know that periodically a Li-Ion pack should be charged to 100% to facilitate balancing or equalisation, but the pack shouldn't be left at that full state after the balancing charge has been completed.
 
If you charge to 100% to battey balance over night how far would you drive it to take it lower than 100% to look after the battery?
 
If you charge to 100% to battey balance over night how far would you drive it to take it lower than 100% to look after the battery?
That's an excellent question. It isn't practicable to drive the car until you take it down to 80% just because you have done a balance charge, although there used to be a YouTuber who posted every day I once followed who would schedule the overnight balance charge for his Tesla Model S to be the night before he needed to take a trip which would use at least 20% of his full charge. He planned to keep the car for the long term and I have to admit that over the first 100,000 miles his battery health degradation was only 2% or 3%. My practical approach is that I know I generally do longer trips at weekends and I have a Gen 1 ZS where 100% is 163 miles. So my practice is to pop it on charge any day when the range left is about 60/65 miles. My home charger is basic with a timer set to 3 hours so about 22 kWh charge overnight during the Octopus Go 4-hour slot. But on Friday night (technically early hours of Saturday morning) the timer is 6 hours the first 4 being at the Octopus Go cheap rate which will mostly top up the car to full and the last 2 hours at day-time-rate will allow the care to fully complete it's balance cycle and shut off. Remember that normal charging on a home charger is c7,000 watts whereas the Balance charge is a completely different process and runs at c300 watts or less so the balance charge portion of the charge time only costs a few pence. This has worked for me the past three years with my ZS but many people don't bother either because they don't care and they don't intend to keep the car more than a 2 or 3-year stint (perhaps on lease anyway). Or perhaps they do intend to keep the car and rely on the MG 7-year warranty, if so bear in mind that any battery warranty doesn't guarantee a 100% range/capacity after 7 years time, but only a capacity of 70% normally (I forget the MG figure). Also as with any other product if you don't follow the manufacturers' maintenance and service schedules the warranty can be null and void just as it would this a petrol engine if you didn't check and top up oil and water and failed to get it serviced.
 
The usable charge / buffer can be determined from the usable kWh of the battery pack. I recall reading that they were something like:

SR = 51kWh rated, 50.8kWh usable
LR = 64kWh rated, 61.7kWh usable

Edit: ev-database has these figures too.

So this shows that the buffer in the LR battery is much bigger.
 
The usable charge / buffer can be determined from the usable kWh of the battery pack. I recall reading that they were something like:

SR = 51kWh rated, 50.8kWh usable
LR = 64kWh rated, 61.7kWh usable

Edit: ev-database has these figures too.

So this shows that the buffer in the LR battery is much bigger.
I agree and this illustrates the difference of the two chemistries. Now consider this: the SR 51 kWh LFP can be charged daily to 100% and the LR 64 kWh Li-Ion is recommended to be charged for daily-drive to only 80% then we have the following.

SR 51 kWh x 100% = 51 kWh
LR 64 kWh x 80% = 51.2 kWh

Makes you think doesn't it, especially when for most people long drives of 200 mile plus are not a daily occurrence? Add to this that LFP tech is generally expected to be good for 50%+ more charge cycles than Li-Ion.
 
I agree and this illustrates the difference of the two chemistries. Now consider this: the SR 51 kWh LFP can be charged daily to 100% and the LR 64 kWh Li-Ion is recommended to be charged for daily-drive to only 80% then we have the following.

SR 51 kWh x 100% = 51 kWh
LR 64 kWh x 80% = 51.2 kWh

Makes you think doesn't it, especially when for most people long drives of 200 mile plus are not a daily occurrence? Add to this that LFP tech is generally expected to be good for 50%+ more charge cycles than Li-Ion.
It does depend on your journey type but the LR charges significantly faster and in a 10-80% top up that will make a difference, you are unlikely to want to wait to top up your SR to 90%, let alone 100%.

Charge cycles are a red herring: 1,500 cycles @ 230 miles each for LR = 345,000 miles! Unless you are a taxi driver that keeps cars for years, will make no difference.

LFP is safer but battery fires are far rarer than ICE engine fires, so it is all relative.

I would have bought an LFP Trophy if that existed, SR is good enough for many.
 
It does depend on your journey type but the LR charges significantly faster and in a 10-80% top up that will make a difference, you are unlikely to want to wait to top up your SR to 90%, let alone 100%.

Charge cycles are a red herring: 1,500 cycles @ 230 miles each for LR = 345,000 miles! Unless you are a taxi driver that keeps cars for years, will make no difference.

LFP is safer but battery fires are far rarer than ICE engine fires, so it is all relative.

I would have bought an LFP Trophy if that existed, SR is good enough for many.
LFP are certainly safer than Li-Ion principle since the electrolyte in a Li-Ion cell (ie the solution between the Anode and Cathode through which the "Ions" of Lithium travel in the charge and discharge of the cell), is inflammable but less so in LFP chemistry. In fact, the BYD "Blade" LFP cell can have a nail driven through it without initiating any combustion - try that with Li-Ion and it will burst into flames.
That all said, the number of car fires involving EV v ICE is staggeringly small even though by far the majority of EVs have the less stable Li-Ion battery cell. In the USA they have had a worst time of it than in the UK because GM has had a big problem with the Chevie Bolt's LG-Chem batteries prompting a massive recall and battery replacement programme plus vehicle buyback. the Bolt hasn't been on sale in the UK so our percentage of EVs with any potential problem will be much lower.
But the numbers tell the story not hype and the media miss information. Even in America with the aforementioned Bolt issue, the numbers of EV fires are tiny per 100,000 registrations compared with ICE per 100,000 registrations. An extract from Autoweek reporting on the numbers in the US Insurance researchers tells an interesting story and something I'd not considered before that is Hybrids are the most vehicle fire-prone, I guess since they are at risk from both their ICE and EV and I imagine that the battery in a Hybrid being small is worked pretty hard.

"Researchers from insurance deal site Auto Insurance EZ compiled sales and accident data from the Bureau of Transportation Statistics and the National Transportation Safety Board. The site found that
hybrid vehicles had the most fires per 100,000 sales at 3474.5.
There were 1529.9 fires per 100k for gas (ICE) vehicles
and just 25.1 fires per 100k sales for electric vehicles."

(How Much Should You Worry About EV Fires?)

In other words, an ICE car is 60.9 times more likely to have a fire than an EV. Bear in mind also that a Hybrid car is 138.4 times more likely to have a car fire.

As I say these are American figures but other than the Bolt issue with would swing the numbers even more in favour of the EV I can't see why the figures should be very much different on UK Roads.
Just as a final thought. It isn't necessarily the fuel which causes a car fire. Many years ago a resident of the property next door to where I worked returned from a shopping trip and parked his car in the detached garage. minutes later thick smoke was seen coming from the garage but after the fire was attended by the brigade and extinguished the fire I spoke to the fireman. They said that the most common cause in a situation like this is that hydraulic brake fluid drips onto a hot exhaust pipe and will combust far more easily than diesel or even petrol which simply vapourises. EVs do not have any such super hot surfaces so are not at such risk, but I would hope that car makers of ICE vehicles would have by now designed this weakness out of their products.
 

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