Unresponsive car

Does anyone else have a problem with their MG 4 not going into drive or reverse. This has happened to us several times at traffic lights, and even once at a road junction. The only way to clear it is to switch the car off with the main power button and start again, very embarrassing with traffic honking you to move .
No, but why would you move out of Drive at traffic lights? Just put the brake on.
 
I only had experience with Tesla one pedal driving.
I assumed that the MG4 with one pedal driving would have auto hold engaged automatically every time it stopped, right?
To engage auto hold, firstly it needs to be switched on in the settings. Then its a simple case of when stopped, pressing the brake pedal a bit harder to engage autohold.
 
To engage auto hold, firstly it needs to be switched on in the settings. Then its a simple case of when stopped, pressing the brake pedal a bit harder to engage autohold.
I think you misread my post, I was talking about one pedal driving where if you lift off the Go pedal, it slows to a complete stop without using the brake pedal.

In the Tesla, it stops and auto hold would be engaged immediately without giving the brake pedal a push to enable auto hold as we now need to do with the MG4.
 
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Are you sure autohold triggers the brake lights?
For the entire duration you’re stopped?
If so, that’s the only possible advantage to auto-hold that I could fathom (no dazzling brake lights) completely nullified.
It definitely does as it uses the footbrake by holding pressure in the ABS system not the parking brake and while the footbrake system is active the brake lights are on.
 
I think you misread my post, I was talking about one pedal driving where if you lift off the Go pedal, it slows to a complete stop without using the brake pedal.

In the Tesla, it stops and auto hold would be engaged immediately without giving the brake pedal a push to enable auto hold as we now need to do with the MG4.
Ah, ok. MG4 doesn't yet support true one pedal driving though.
 
Yes and most times the car just goes into drive and away we go, but on occasions it will not engage D , it will not engage R , and as I stated before, on at least 2 occasions, all three were lit up and I had to switch the car off and on to get it to do anything. I asked the dealer, but they said they hadn't heard of this, and in fact seemed to think I was making it up.
Being new to the MG4 I've had a similar (but may not be the same issue. I put my foot on the brake when I get in the car, everything lights up - try to put it into D or R and it stays in neutral. I realised after a few instances it was because the car was coming onto standby rather than fully switching on. Pushing the brake, releasing and pushing again seems to get it raring to go!
 
Does anyone else have a problem with their MG 4 not going into drive or reverse. This has happened to us several times at traffic lights, and even once at a road junction. The only way to clear it is to switch the car off with the main power button and start again, very embarrassing with traffic honking you to move .
My March 23 SE LR frequently does this on first start up, but as others have said, I find that if I lift my foot off the brake and reapply it, the car wakes up properly and goes into D or R as required. I also had it occur at a set of traffic lights - until then I hadn't been bothering to put the car into N when waiting at lights but for some reason I did that time. I had the footbrake applied throughout, and when I came to move off the car doggedly refused to go into D, regardless of lifting my foot off the brake etc, but eventually it did, and the lights promptly changed back to red of course.

So from now on I'll be very wary of putting it into N at any point during a drive, but it does raise the question, is there any real need to put an EV into neutral when you're waiting at lights etc if you're holding it on the footbrake or autohold with no accelerator applied?
 
My March 23 SE LR frequently does this on first start up, but as others have said, I find that if I lift my foot off the brake and reapply it, the car wakes up properly and goes into D or R as required. I also had it occur at a set of traffic lights - until then I hadn't been bothering to put the car into N when waiting at lights but for some reason I did that time. I had the footbrake applied throughout, and when I came to move off the car doggedly refused to go into D, regardless of lifting my foot off the brake etc, but eventually it did, and the lights promptly changed back to red of course.

So from now on I'll be very wary of putting it into N at any point during a drive, but it does raise the question, is there any real need to put an EV into neutral when you're waiting at lights etc if you're holding it on the footbrake or autohold with no accelerator applied?
Auto hold is all that is required whilst sitting at lights or junctions, and have your foot lightly resting on the accelerator ready for the off.
 
My March 23 SE LR frequently does this on first start up, but as others have said, I find that if I lift my foot off the brake and reapply it, the car wakes up properly and goes into D or R as required. I also had it occur at a set of traffic lights - until then I hadn't been bothering to put the car into N when waiting at lights but for some reason I did that time. I had the footbrake applied throughout, and when I came to move off the car doggedly refused to go into D, regardless of lifting my foot off the brake etc, but eventually it did, and the lights promptly changed back to red of course.

So from now on I'll be very wary of putting it into N at any point during a drive, but it does raise the question, is there any real need to put an EV into neutral when you're waiting at lights etc if you're holding it on the footbrake or autohold with no accelerator applied?
Got to agree - I learned fairly early on in my MG4 ownership that getting out of neutral into drive/reverse is a challenge. So, I am careful not to take it into Neutral unless I plan on getting out of the car
 
My March 23 SE LR frequently does this on first start up, but as others have said, I find that if I lift my foot off the brake and reapply it, the car wakes up properly and goes into D or R as required. I also had it occur at a set of traffic lights - until then I hadn't been bothering to put the car into N when waiting at lights but for some reason I did that time. I had the footbrake applied throughout, and when I came to move off the car doggedly refused to go into D, regardless of lifting my foot off the brake etc, but eventually it did, and the lights promptly changed back to red of course.

So from now on I'll be very wary of putting it into N at any point during a drive, but it does raise the question, is there any real need to put an EV into neutral when you're waiting at lights etc if you're holding it on the footbrake or autohold with no accelerator applied?
Driving instructors these days teach the law which states that when at traffic lights the brakes should be applied. My son was taught to apply the brakes with his right foot only and sit with his left foot on the clutch and in gear. Easier to pass the test as fewer things to do but not what was taught when Adam was a boy. Leave the car in Drive and let Autohold do its thing.

Got to agree - I learned fairly early on in my MG4 ownership that getting out of neutral into drive/reverse is a challenge. So, I am careful not to take it into Neutral unless I plan on getting out of the car
Try it on a VW where Drive and Reverse are controlled with your right hand. Now that is a challenge.
 
Driving instructors these days teach the law which states that when at traffic lights the brakes should be applied. My son was taught to apply the brakes with his right foot only and sit with his left foot on the clutch and in gear. Easier to pass the test as fewer things to do but not what was taught when Adam was a boy. Leave the car in Drive and let Autohold do its thing.
Had the driving instructor got shares in clutch thrust bearings? And if he gets cramp in his left leg and slips off the clutch......
 
Of course, when I'm on a hill waiting at traffic lights I use the park button. I don't do this on the flat , I use the autohold , but after one incident where the autohold released and the car started to roll into the back of the car in front, I sometimes use the park on an incline. Is this wrong and I should only press the p button when I'm getting out of the car. ?? On my test , I was taught to use the handbrake, so I guess I should just hold it on the brake all the time now, according to everyone on this forum .
I have had may be handful of times that when I turn the gear knob the car does not go into drive or reverse. Usually pressing P and back again (couple of times) clears the problem. So I suspect it is a software issue. If you garage finds a solution please let me know what they said.

This happens to me when I start the car, because as many have said, I don't change gear while driving. Use Auto Hold. When driving do not use P or the handbrake. This is absolutely marvelous. I use it all the time at lights or uphill start.
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I tried writing the above , then got distracted by work. came back to it an hour later , posted, and then noticed there is many many replies on Auto Hold.... :) : 0
 
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I've only just discovered that the square ((P)) button is easiest way to hold the car at lights.
Roll up to the lights, brake then just pull the little ((P)) button and the car stays in D and puts the parking brake on. When the lights change just press the accelerator pedal and the parking brake automatically releases.
No need to use Auto hold, no need to hold the footbrake pressed, no brake lights (if that's an issue with you) and no need the select P when you stop and then having to faff about with brake pedal select D etc.
 
I've only just discovered that the square ((P)) button is easiest way to hold the car at lights.
Roll up to the lights, brake then just pull the little ((P)) button and the car stays in D and puts the parking brake on. When the lights change just press the accelerator pedal and the parking brake automatically releases.
No need to use Auto hold, no need to hold the footbrake pressed, no brake lights (if that's an issue with you) and no need the select P when you stop and then having to faff about with brake pedal select D etc.
Yes, this works. I prefer autohold though: just press a little harder and then no need to hold the footbrake and just press the accelerator to get away.
 
Yes, this works. I prefer autohold though: just press a little harder and then no need to hold the footbrake and just press the accelerator to get away.
I tried Auto hold when I had the ZS and accidentally caught the accelerator as I was waiting in traffic and it let go and I almost hit the car in front, so I gave up on it as a "needs more practice" job.
With my new ((P)) button method it takes quite a bit of a press on the accelerator to release it.
I may be wrong but I'm guessing it's because the parking brake is gradually winding off whereas the footbrake releases instantly with auto hold.
 
I tried Auto hold when I had the ZS and accidentally caught the accelerator as I was waiting in traffic and it let go and I almost hit the car in front, so I gave up on it as a "needs more practice" job.
With my new ((P)) button method it takes quite a bit of a press on the accelerator to release it.
I may be wrong but I'm guessing it's because the parking brake is gradually winding off whereas the footbrake releases instantly with auto hold.
Yes, it is slower to release the parking brake than autohold as the actuators have to fully release the handbrake rather than simply lift the footbrake.
 

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