Which charging cable?

[TetchyTechie]

As a result of an irritating layout of parking, I had to get a 10 metre CCS charging cable for the MG5. Which is fine: the dealer supplied one. It works.
However, I'd like a shorter one to travel with, as I reckon I'll be able to 'nose-in' to public 'low-speed' chargers - the 10 metre one is rather bulky, so I was looking to get a 5 metre one. The manual doesn't specify any particular kind (single-phase or three phase, 16A or 32A) - is there a quick, easy, and reliable way to find out, or will I have to ask the dealer (yet again).
Of course, if the cables are 'smart' - or at least, somehow indicate their capabilities to the equipment in the car and charger, then I don't need to worry - but I don't think they are. And anyone who has had anything to do with USB Power Delivery will be wary of relying on a cable to correctly describe its capabilities.

My old EV didn't have a high-power convertor, so the supplied CCS cable was pretty thin, so easy to roll up and carry in the car. I think the MG5 needs a more beefy one. It's a pity it can't be stored under the bonnet.

 

[Coulomb]

if the cables are 'smart' - or at least, somehow indicate their capabilities to the equipment in the car and charger, then I don't need to worry

They are smart in the sense that they indicate their current carrying ability to the vehicle. So you might carry a 16A cable because it's cheaper and less bulky, and an EVSE (AC "charger") might be capable of 32A. In this case, the vehicle recognises that the cable can only safely handle 16A, and reduces the charge current accordingly.

I'm almost certain that your MG5 will only use one phase, and is capable of charging at nearly 32A. So while any Type 2 cable will work, the 3 phase cables will be more expensive and bulky than you need. 16A might be annoyingly slow, so a 32A cable is probably best.

You can check your charging inlet to make sure your car only uses one phase. If single phase, the bottom two holes won't have pins in them. These two pins are used for L2 and L3, the second and third phases.

The below isn't a CCS2 socket, but the AC part of a CCS2 inlet looks the same.

Edit: I just realised you are from Norway, so there is a greater chance that your on-board chsrger is 3-phase. If so, you probably want a 3-phase cable, as charging will be three times faster than with a single phase cable. In this case, a 16A cable is sufficient. 32A 3-phase cables are very bulky and stiff.

 

[MickeySw]

The manual doesn't specify any particular kind (single-phase or three phase, 16A or 32A) - is there a quick, easy, and reliable way to find out, or will I have to ask the dealer (yet again).

If you want to get best charging speeds buy a 32 A rated 3phase cable, it will give you about 11 kW on 3phase (MG5 limit) but still 7 kW on single phase supply. They are usually advertised as 22 kW cables.

@Coulomb is correct, using the thinner 16 A cable will do the same in a 3phase vehicle but only half the rate otherwise.

I think the MG5 needs a more beefy one. It's a pity it can't be stored under the bonnet.

I store my beefy cable on top of the plastic cover under the bonnet, just fits and doesn’t move…

[ Edit moderator: environment → vehicle ]

 

[TetchyTechie]

@Coulomb - Thank you for that information about the cables. Given that I prefer to charge slowly overnight, I should probably have got a 10 metre single-phase 16A cable then instead of the 3-phase cable the dealer supplied. Oh well. It takes a bit of effort to roll out and roll up each time I charge (I have to reverse into the space, the wallbox is at the back of the space). I'm sure it's good for me. I use the 'roadie' method of coiling the cable, so I'm not dealing with a spring/twisted cable each time.

Is that automatic cable identification documented anywhere? I'm curious to see how it works.
As for three-phase support on the car, you could well be correct.
First picture is the wallbox, which looks to have metal lining in all pin-sockets, which is a good sign.

The next picture is the wallbox end of the charging cable, which has pins in each hole, The phase pins (L1, L2, L3) and Neutral (N) appear to have insulated tips, which is probably a safety thing. The CP pin appears to be shorter than the PP pin.

The next picture is the car end of the charging cable. It was difficult to take a photograph, as all the pin-sockets seem to be lined with shiny metal - but again, points to continuity on all phase connections. (I could get my multimeter and check, but not right now)

Finally, the car socket. All pin sockets are populated, and the phase pins (L1, L2, L3) and Neutral (N) appear to have insulated tips. Again, the CP pin appears to be shorter than the PP pin.

It also looks like there is some deposit/corrosion on the DC connectors, which might need dealing with.
So, all in all, it looks like there is nothing physical preventing 3-phase connection - but I can't speak for the gubbins in the wallbox (or the car, for that matter). The physical connectors look like they support 3-phase all the way.

If you want to get best charging speeds buy a 32A rated 3phase cable, it will give you about 11kWh on 3phase (MG5 limit) but still 7kWh on single phase supply. They are usually advertised as 22kWh cables.

@Coulomb is correct, using the thinner 16A cable will do the same in a 3phase environment but only half the rate otherwise.

I store my beefy cable on top of the plastic cover under the bonnet, just fits and doesn’t move…

Thanks @MickeySw - given how much empty space there is under the 'engine' plastic cover, it's a pity MG didn't at least put in a moulded depression for carrying the charging cable (and possibly even the granny charger) - far more convenient that storing them under the floor of the boot. The plastic mouldings there even look designed to prevent you using the space efficiently.

 

[MickeySw]

it's a pity MG didn't at least put in a moulded depression for carrying the charging cable (and possibly even the granny charger) - far more convenient that storing them under the floor of the boot. The plastic mouldings there even look designed to prevent you using the space efficiently.

There are various aftermarket DIY solutions available to add a frunk, below seems to be quite popular:

Under Bonnet solutions for your electric car

Additional 45l to store charging accessories. Innovative ideas for your electric car

www.evaccessoriesireland.com

 

[TetchyTechie]

There are various aftermarket DIY solutions available to add a frunk, below seems to be quite popular:

Under Bonnet solutions for your electric car

Additional 45l to store charging accessories. Innovative ideas for your electric car

www.evaccessoriesireland.com

Looks good.
My natural pessimism cuts in at this point and wonders if this affects the insurance (non-standard modification), MG's warranty, and potentially keeping the rain off anything that doesn't appreciate water if you raise the bonnet in a windy rainstorm (which Ireland (country of origin of the linked nice-looking frunk) never has) to get the charging leads out.
But yes, this is the kind of thing I'd like MG to have come up with themselves.

I also think that putting the charging connectors in the nose of the car was a 'brave' decision, given the possibilities of dust, water, snow, and ice ingression. My previous EV had it's side connector flap freeze up a couple of times, but that's Norway, where -20°C at times, and horizontal snow at other times is 'normal'.

 

[MickeySw]

Is that automatic cable identification documented anywhere? I'm curious to see how it works.

Fairly simple, just a resistor:

Proximity Pilot - IQLaad

Proximity Pilot (PP) serves as a charge cable detection and current limitation. The Proximity Pilot is implemented differently in Type 1 and Type 2 plugs. For Type 1 plugs only, the Proximity Pilot also takes care of mechanical locking and sparkleless disconnections. Charge Cable Detection It is...

www.iqlaad.com

The CP pin appears to be shorter than the PP pin.

Yes, by design:
a) to prevent ‘daisy chaining’ of multiple leads
b) to stop the charging process if one manages to pull out the type 2 connector

So, all in all, it looks like there is nothing physical preventing 3-phase connection but I can't speak for the gubbins in the wallbox (or the car, for that matter). The physical connectors look like they support 3-phase all the way.

Just plug in your 3phase cable and start a charge, if you see a rate above 7kW on the app/in-car display then all checks out…

 

[5teep]

Looks good.
My natural pessimism cuts in at this point and wonders if this affects the insurance (non-standard modification), MG's warranty, and potentially keeping the rain off anything that doesn't appreciate water if you raise the bonnet in a windy rainstorm (which Ireland (country of origin of the linked nice-looking frunk) never has) to get the charging leads out.
But yes, this is the kind of thing I'd like MG to have come up with themselves.

I also think that putting the charging connectors in the nose of the car was a 'brave' decision, given the possibilities of dust, water, snow, and ice ingression. My previous EV had it's side connector flap freeze up a couple of times, but that's Norway, where -20°C at times, and horizontal snow at other times is 'normal'.

I used to have a box ( ah la Jame and Kate ) But the dealer would get upset every time I put it in for a service "fire hazard" etc. When I changed car I didn't put the box back because it was easier just to store the cable inside the car.

 

[TetchyTechie]

Thank you for that @MickeySw. Especially the link, which is interesting reading (for me at least). I'll take a careful look at the in-car display when I next charge.

 

[M44LCY]

I just fitted a spacesaver kit to my MG, and there wasn't enough room left for my Type 2 cable under the boot floor. It's now sitting comfortably under the bonnet (in a large zip-seal bag), on top of the plastic cover. No sign of it pushing into the sound deadening, so all should be well.