MG5 won't turn off

[5teep]

This has just happened to me. Did you manage to fix it. I am desperate

OP was a flybynight, he never came back after his last post above.

Have you tried disconnecting the 12V battery?

The above has worked for an MG ZS.

 

[M44LCY]

My 5 is in the dealer's right now for much the same issue - four days working on it on & off. Mine started having the fault after the rear screen wash pipe popped from the connection at the windscreen pillar so it was probably related. Maybe yours has a smaller leak from the washer pipe? Or some condensation or other type of dampness caused by the colder weather?

 

[M44LCY]

Bit unusual this, normally when they break they won't turn on!

The car is sitting on the drive right now, and here's what it's doing:

Start/stop button won't turn off (light on button stays green, headlights stay on etc).
Keys won't lock the car, just honk the horn when we try (probably because it's still turned on!)
Pushing the start/stop button will turn air-con on/off, so it's definitely working as a button.
Battery voltage displayed on the dash is 13(ish)V so it looks like the 12v system is good? (Main battery is at 80% so that's fine too)
If i put the car into reverse the rear camera starts up, but pressing accelerator does nothing
While pushing the start/stop button turns air-con on/off, the dial on the display showing power (and regen) remains off (i.e. pointing down at the max regen position - I'd expect it to go to the 0 position when the car is ready to drive).

I've tried both sets of keys, tried the key in the recovery position (in the cup holder), and tried resetting the info system (bit of a long shot) with no change.


Any suggestions before I accpet failure and call a garage over Christmas?

Hi. Just wondering how it turned out? Did you have to take it to the dealer and, if so, did they fix it under warranty?

 

[ALANB]

I'm sure I read somewhere that having the boot open can cause this issue, so is the boot lid closed properly or is it not registering closed properly?

 

[CarlThom]

The horn honks if a door isn't closed properly and it also won't drive if that's the case . Maybe check all your doors are closed properly

Also honks horn if you've left spare key in or near the car. Try taking spare key a distance away and try again

 

[maskull]

Also honks horn if you've left spare key in or near the car. Try taking spare key a distance away and try again

Exactly . If I carry my spare key with me ( rarely ) , I always carry the spare in an RFID pouch ...problems solved .

 

[HarryTheGreyhound]

My 5 is in the dealer's right now for much the same issue - four days working on it on & off. Mine started having the fault after the rear screen wash pipe popped from the connection at the windscreen pillar so it was probably related. Maybe yours has a smaller leak from the washer pipe? Or some condensation or other type of dampness caused by the colder weather?

I've got exactly the same thing now! Rear washer stopped working and then the car didn't turn off. Did you work out what the issue was in the end?

 

[M44LCY]

I've got exactly the same thing now! Rear washer stopped working and then the car didn't turn off. Did you work out what the issue was in the end?

I got a detailed report, but it only said things such as "checked plug ABC, pin 123 for continuity”. They found continuity in a pin, which presumably indicated a short circuit. They removed the plug, cleaned it and refitted it - no more short.

Athe whole problem was that the rear washer pipe has a joint in the most stupid location, pouring water onto the Body Control Module and immobiliser. I'm not sure if either of these would cause the car not to turn off, but possibly the BCM?

Despite fitting cable ties to hold the pipe to the joint, mine came apart again in last week's cold weather. That was despite having more or less neat screen wash fluid, so I'm sure that the real issue is that the rear screen was nozzle is getting wet and icing up. The washer motor tries to pump fluid, the pressure in the pipe builds up and the joint splits.

Come the spring, I'm going to see if I can fit a continuous length of washer pipe from the 'engine bay' to the tailgate. Then, if the pipe pops a joint, it'll be well away from any vital electronics!

 

[BROC]

What size is the pipe? Would any of these fit?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spring-Clamps-5mm-9mm-Pressure-Silicone/dp/B0D8VLV1K3

 

[M44LCY]

What size is the pipe? Would any of these fit?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spring-Clamps-5mm-9mm-Pressure-Silicone/dp/B0D8VLV1K3

Those look like a better solution than cable ties. I'll get a set for myself!

I didn't measure the MG pipe but it looks about the same as normal washer tubing, which is 5mm internal diameter, 9mm external.

 

[kevin ellard]

My motorbike has a fuel pipe connection inside the petrol tank and it was extremely time consuming to get to, so I used something like these /https://www.amazon.co.uk/HSEAMALL-140PCS-7-20mm-Stainless-Fasteners/dp/B07R7VHG1K which once they are on, they stay on for good.

 

[Pebblefeline]

Silicone grip tape (emergency repair) is also good to wrap the connection, will also contain any leaks

 

[M44LCY]

What size is the pipe? Would any of these fit?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spring-Clamps-5mm-9mm-Pressure-Silicone/dp/B0D8VLV1K3

My clips arrived today and have them fitted. Although they were a tight fit, I thought that the 7mm ones would give the best grip and so were the best option. Photos attached - you'll see that I also popped in bits of sponge to catch any fluid if the joint should give way in the future.

Why MG would have a joint in the pipe at this point (or anywhere), I find quite baffling ... Hopefully, I can now relax and forget about it.

 

[Jomarkh]

Do you think cable ties would do the job?

 

[M44LCY]

Do you think cable ties would do the job?

Received wisdom is to use cable ties. I did that in December (after being with the dealer to fix it and finding all they had done was pop the pipe back on with no fixings!). It popped off again a couple of weeks ago (despite running neat washer fluid). I think the cable ties I used might have been a bit wide, so not applying enough pressure but I worried that thinner ones might not be strong enough. Also, it's quite awkward getting in to pull the tie tight.

The suggestion of these clips seemed a good one, and hopefully will be a permanent fix.

 

[kevin ellard]

Do you think cable ties would do the job?

Probably but the down side risk is quite high with screen wash spraying into the cars electrics. If I have to do it I'll use the clips with ears that you tighten with pliers.

 

[HarryTheGreyhound]

I got a detailed report, but it only said things such as "checked plug ABC, pin 123 for continuity”. They found continuity in a pin, which presumably indicated a short circuit. They removed the plug, cleaned it and refitted it - no more short.

Athe whole problem was that the rear washer pipe has a joint in the most stupid location, pouring water onto the Body Control Module and immobiliser. I'm not sure if either of these would cause the car not to turn off, but possibly the BCM?

Despite fitting cable ties to hold the pipe to the joint, mine came apart again in last week's cold weather. That was despite having more or less neat screen wash fluid, so I'm sure that the real issue is that the rear screen was nozzle is getting wet and icing up. The washer motor tries to pump fluid, the pressure in the pipe builds up and the joint splits.

Come the spring, I'm going to see if I can fit a continuous length of washer pipe from the 'engine bay' to the tailgate. Then, if the pipe pops a joint, it'll be well away from any vital electronics!

Thanks for the reply. Was the immobiliser, which was doing weird things to the control of the HV unit. Being repaired under warranty as we speak, and I might think about trading in for a newer MG4.