Rust

M

mg4ld

Standard Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2024
Messages
10
Reaction score
4
Points
2
Location
Queensland
Driving
MG4 Standard
I had a puncture today. The repairer made a comment about the amount of rust for a new car bought 1 and 1/2 month ago. I take it this is not normal for a new car and I will have to take it up with the dealer. Thanks.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2159.jpeg
    IMG_2159.jpeg
    583 KB · Views: 170
mg4ld said:
I had a puncture today. The repairer made a comment about the amount of rust for a new car bought 1 and 1/2 month ago. I take it this is not normal for a new car and I will have to take it up with the dealer. Thanks.
Click to expand...
:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::cool:
The "rust" being referred to is that on the brake disks that accumulates way more on an EV than on a conventional ICE car due to the EV using regenerative braking rather than applying the brake pads (and so "cleaning" the rust from the disks) to decelerate.
It's a good thing.
You don't need to take it up with the dealer. I guess you could call them to express your thanks!
 
🤣
Rust?

You are referring to the tiny bit of rust in the centre I take it? (Drive shaft end)

I dreeeem of having such an immaculate brake disc!

Just wait til the rest of it starts to rust.

Don't embarrass yourself by complaining to your dealer!

Not pretty, but perfectly normal IMO.

20241221_094301.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks to the information previously posted on this forum ,the very first job I did on receiving the car ( less than 100km ) was to pull off the aero wheel trims , scrape and emery down the rust around the driveshaft areas , treat with rust cure all, then paint with black Hammerite. Worked a treat, 16 months later , still rust free.
It appears the the quality of the steel of the discs isn't the best and they do tarnish quickly, The areas where the pads touch will clean up with adequate usage ,unfortunately the rest will degrade quicker than you would normally expect for a new car. Its possible that the pads have a iron content which with use transfers to the disc and then when damp ,even overnight can show up as a rust bloom on the disc the day after.
 
OriginalBigAl said:
Thanks to the information previously posted on this forum ,the very first job I did on receiving the car ( less than 100km ) was to pull off the aero wheel trims , scrape and emery down the rust around the driveshaft areas , treat with rust cure all, then paint with black Hammerite. Worked a treat, 16 months later , still rust free.
It appears the the quality of the steel of the discs isn't the best and they do tarnish quickly, The areas where the pads touch will clean up with adequate usage ,unfortunately the rest will degrade quicker than you would normally expect for a new car. Its possible that the pads have a iron content which with use transfers to the disc and then when damp ,even overnight can show up as a rust bloom on the disc the day after.
Click to expand...

I was so very full of good intentions and was going to do the same, but despite having had all the wheels off, I just can't............

 
Last edited:
Bricktop X PWR said:
I was so very full of good intentions and was going to do the same, but despite having had all the wheels off, I just can't............

Click to expand...

Lax very very lax , in your defence though you do have to jack it up and de-wheel it! , and then treat each area individually, before replacing the wheel and moving onto the next. Pain. 😧
 
Ive got into the habit of occasionally turning the regen down to 1 and causing the brake pads to engage with discs just to keep them from rusting up.
 
Surfdog said:
Ive got into the habit of occasionally turning the regen down to 1 and causing the brake pads to engage with discs just to keep them from rusting up.
Click to expand...

You won't stop the middle or outer edge of the rear disc from rusting though, due to the contact patch of the pad.

I've done 11,500 miles now, and only the front discs are completely clear.(apart from a couple of mm in the middle)

The middle is still as rusty as the rears though.

20241221_114136.jpg
 
Last edited:
Kithmo said:
Maybe this is the real reason they now put wheel trims on the alloys, not for aerodynamics but to cover the rust up. :LOL:
Click to expand...
Anything is possible with MG

Bricktop X PWR said:
You won't stop the middle or outer edge of the rear disc from rusting though, due to the contact patch of the pad.

I've done 11,500 miles now, and only the front discs are completely clear.(apart from a couple of mm in the middle)

The middle is still as rusty as the rears though.

View attachment 33342
Click to expand...
I noticed that on the wife's rears and took a wheel off to have a look as I thought their was something wrong with how they were set up as you say it's just how they are, they calipers aren't the greatest.
 
The rust I am referring to is at the tip of the axle and bottom of hub cover, not on the disk rotor itself. Refer to attached photo. Thanks for your comments.
 
mg4ld said:
The rust I am referring to is at the tip of the axle and bottom of hub cover, not on the disk rotor itself. Refer to attached photo. Thanks for your comments.
Click to expand...

As per my comment in post #4.

Perfectly normal.

Undesirable? Probably.

But don't lose any sleep over it and don't waste your time complaining to the dealer.

Edit: You also mention that the car is 1 and a half months old.

It's not.

Have a look at the sticker under the rear parcel shelf.

It will have a build date on it.

The car could have been sat around for up to a year. Maybe more.

I mean, complain if you wish, and let us know what's said.
 
Last edited:
Bricktop X PWR said:
As per my comment in post #4.

Perfectly normal.

Undesirable? Probably.

But don't lose any sleep over it and don't waste your time complaining to the dealer.

Edit: You also mention that the car is 1 and a half months old.

It's not.

Have a look at the sticker under the rear parcel shelf.

It will have a build date on it.

The car could have been sat around for up to a year. Maybe more.

I mean, complain if you wish, and let us know what's said.
Click to expand...
Just looked at the sticker but I do not see a date on it
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20241222_193830.jpg
    IMG_20241222_193830.jpg
    681.9 KB · Views: 94
It's the date which is very faint and printed diagonally across the sticker. Alternatively look in the glovebox and see if there's a Certificate of Conformity in there. (In my car it was inside a plastic wallet). The car's build date is in MM/DD/YYYY format.
 
Doesn't the VIN include the build month and year?

[updated]

Hmmm. So they should but the VINs of our two MG4s don't align with the supposed VIN structure of other MG vehicles :(
 
Last edited:
siteguru said:
It's the date which is very faint and printed diagonally across the sticker. Alternatively look in the glovebox and see if there's a Certificate of Conformity in there. (In my car it was inside a plastic wallet). The car's build date is in MM/DD/YYYY format.
Click to expand...
Oeff... Difficult to read. But it look like it starts with yyyy.There was no COC at delivery. Plastic had a hole in it...
 
Last edited:

Similar threads

tsedge
Is rust a problem on early MG5s?
Replies
13
Views
722
CanyonReveller
C
Ethernea
Rear Wiper Missing Something? is this normal?
Replies
10
Views
1K
Ian Key
Ian Key
Z
Rust on MG ZS EV
Replies
0
Views
520
Zlappis
Z
C
Paint Warranty - Beware, you may need to request annual check to qualify!
Replies
7
Views
721
Conradu
C
Wendwell
Rust on Drive Shaft of Windscreen Wiper
Replies
1
Views
418
Alb
Alb

Are you enjoying your MG4?

  • Yes

    Votes: 911 77.7%

  • I'm in the middle

    Votes: 171 14.6%

  • No

    Votes: 90 7.7%
See comments…
Support us by becoming a Premium Member

Latest MG EVs video

MG Hybrid+ EVs OVER-REVVING & more owner feedback
Published
Subscribe to our YouTube channel
Back
Top Bottom