Diagnostic VDI, VNCI, MDI with MG4

Hello, my friends. Do you think someone would be willing to make if possible a video tutorial on how to update the infotaiment and also downgrade it? Such a step by step tutorial. Thank you for considering such an idea...
Hi, there is a differet thread with a step by step guide for the Trophy/Luxury model.
Thread: Trophy/Luxury 22/23 FICM loading guide
 
I didn't have this problem, and I registered two accounts because sometimes the credentials given to me weren’t working.
Have you checked your spam folder? If not, try using a Gmail account.
Yes, I tried it but I still don't have access and I don't know what else to do.
Bad luck having bought the VNCI that is not going to be of any use to me.
 
Yes, I tried it but I still don't have access and I don't know what else to do.
Bad luck having bought the VNCI that is not going to be of any use to me.
If you want, we can try doing this registration together in chat. I just tried, and I was able to create another account and immediately received the verification code. Just to verify, can I ask if you followed these steps in this exact order?
  1. Open: https://rmi.mgmotor.eu/
  2. Click Login
  3. Click Register an account
  4. Enter First name, Last name, and Email, but do not enter the phone number yet.
  5. Click "Click to start verification" next to the email field.
  6. Verify your email.
  7. Only after email verification, enter the phone number and the other required information.

P.S. Feel free to reach out to me in chat if you need any help
 
If you want, we can try doing this registration together in chat. I just tried, and I was able to create another account and immediately received the verification code. Just to verify, can I ask if you followed these steps in this exact order?
  1. Open: https://rmi.mgmotor.eu/
  2. Click Login
  3. Click Register an account
  4. Enter First name, Last name, and Email, but do not enter the phone number yet.
  5. Click "Click to start verification" next to the email field.
  6. Verify your email.
  7. Only after email verification, enter the phone number and the other required information.

P.S. Feel free to reach out to me in chat if you need any help
It did not follow that exact order, it filled out all the fields and then verified the email to later complete the entire registration.

Finally, following your instructions, the registration worked, thank you very much.
 
Well I’ve read and read and read. Downloaded alll of the bits and bought my time. Thank you

The SE may be getting the treatment tomorrow. Any tips or watch outs ?

I’m pushing it up to R38 1st via usb. Battery charger on with a charger on the laptop and USB to the VCI. Might even make a long cat5e to my router. Any watch outs or just go for it with the one touch ?

It’s been a LONG time since I flashed an ECU - last time was with Testbook and the cds !!
 
Well a few modules failed 😞 I tried to drive it an it stuck in neutral, mega squeaky bum time. Ran through again and the after routines thankfully it would go back into park and was drivable. Oh that wasn’t nice.

FVCM keeps failing. Tried with a replacement “failed with a negative response”. Huuum
 
Last time I did the FVCM it took 2 hours
The FVCM & IPK are the 2 that seem to have the most issues for people and can take multiple attempts. I've known it take 5

If any fail part way through you have to program it as a replacement rather than attempt an update on further attempts
So far no one has said they haven't been able to rectify a programming issue but garages have given up when it's failed for them and replaced modules

Suppose why loose a tech for possibly 2 days when you can change a module in a couple of hours

Have you tried power cycling if it won't program as a replacement? Either leave the car locked for 5mins or disconnect 12v battery
 
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Last time I did the FVCM it took 2 hours
The FVCM & IPK are the 2 that seem to have the most issues for people and can take multiple attempts. I've know it takes 5
If any fail part way through you have to program it as a replacement rather than attempt an update on further attempts
So far no one has said they haven't been able to rectify a programming issue but garages have given up when it's failed for them and replaced modules
Suppose why loose a tech for possibly 2 days when you can change a module in a couple of hours
Thanks I’m on attempt 4…

Yes sorry cycled between and pulled the 12V on one go.
 
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I've taken about five attempts in total with FVCM over a couple of different weekends to no avail. Everything else has more or less updated ok for me. Last couple of times I set it up running from the passenger seat and was coming back checking it every so often - best I've managed is to about 33% (20 mins or so) before failing. Will give it another go tomorrow and disconnect 12v for a few mins beforehand to see if that helps.
 
I've taken about five attempts in total with FVCM over a couple of different weekends to no avail. Everything else has more or less updated ok for me. Last couple of times I set it up running from the passenger seat and was coming back checking it every so often - best I've managed is to about 33% (20 mins or so) before failing. Will give it another go tomorrow and disconnect 12v for a few mins beforehand to see if that helps.

Well my 24h just up. It finally did it with a reprogram. Took over 8 attempts. I was so meh with it I left the OH with it as I had a stinking head ache.

No battery charger on the car or laptop and it went through by all accounts.

updating my BCM and the car dims mid way through and then the reprogram stops. Car doesn’t start up now?? Did I just brick my car?
If it anything like the pain I’ve had today…. Possibly. As other more experienced members led me. Try a reprogram again
 
If it anything like the pain I’ve had today…. Possibly. As other more experienced members led me. Try a reprogram again
I can’t switch the car on - whole thing is dead. Currently have positive terminal off the battery in hope it resets itself. So strange tho the car just switched itself off midway through
 
I've taken about five attempts in total with FVCM over a couple of different weekends to no avail. Everything else has more or less updated ok for me. Last couple of times I set it up running from the passenger seat and was coming back checking it every so often - best I've managed is to about 33% (20 mins or so) before failing. Will give it another go tomorrow and disconnect 12v for a few mins beforehand to see if that helps.

There is something odd with what’s going on. If the module was a pain I’d expect it to fail at the same point when it got to certain locations. Something is timing out or something is waking up imho because even with a fresh reprogram mine would fail at random intervals - 22%, 27%, 39%, 38% etc. Muchose thank you to Halesowenhamster for being a guinea pig, documenting the lot and helping (even the encouragement just to continue was needed!!!).

I can’t switch the car on - whole thing is dead. Currently have positive terminal off the battery in hope it resets itself. So strange tho the car just switched itself off midway through
Did you have a battery charger on ? Wondering if you have a flat battery?
 
Did you have a battery charger on ? Wondering if you have a flat battery?
I had a charger on and it’s reading 12.8v on the battery. SIPS was saying the battery was low before the car just stopped working? There still seems to be energy in the battery though?
 
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I had a charger on and it’s reading 12.8v on the battery. SIPS was saying the battery was low before the car just stopped working? There still seems to be power in the battery though?
Ahhhh. Well sounds like you are doing what I would which is leave the car to power down and see if you can get life from it after half an hour. As others have pointed out, if it failed on a specific module and you can get sips running, the module software showed 00000 on the one I had trouble with. Its replacement programming attempts multiple times as needed on the specific module to get it going.
 
Ahhhh. Well sounds like you are doing what I would which is leave the car to power down and see if you can get life from it after half an hour. As others have pointed out, if it failed on a specific module and you can get sips running, the module software showed 00000 on the one I had trouble with. Its replacement programming attempts multiple times as needed on the specific module to get it going.
Exactly that - praying that I leave it to power down then go for it again tomorrow
 
Personally, I have never had any issues updating the modules, hopefully, I’m not jinxing myself by saying this. I have never used the onepress function but have always performed programming and configuration separately, updating one module at time with a battery maintainer providing at least 10A. However, only once did the battery draw enough power to make the maintainer deliver 10A, and that was during the BCM update.
 
Exactly that - praying that I leave it to power down then go for it again tomorrow
I know why the dealers won’t do it unless they have to now. All day in this cold damp urgh. At one stage I took the negative lead off and everything was still on - really not sure of the mechanics of it but it must have got itself in a right knot and carried on drawing from the HV pack. Put the negative back on, locked the car (heard it clunk) then removed the negative and it died off.
 
I know why the dealers won’t do it unless they have to now. All day in this cold damp urgh. At one stage I took the negative lead off and everything was still on - really not sure of the mechanics of it but it must have got itself in a right knot and carried on drawing from the HV pack. Put the negative back on, locked the car (heard it clunk) then removed the negative and it died off.
I had this the other week - positive terminal off the battery, car still running - no idea how it happens.
 
I had this the other week - positive terminal off the battery, car still running - no idea how it happens.
It has happened to me several times. I found that the way to completely turn off the power is to open the hood, lock the car (I leave the window open just in case I wouldn’t want to get locked out), wait 5-10 minutes with the car locked and the keys far away, and then disconnect the batteries terminal.
 

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