Easiest solution I found was to add another USB C cable into the mix. I know that sounds bonkers but I haven't had a single issue since. So I have a USB C Male plugged into the car port then that has a USB C female end that I plug a standard USB C <--> USB C cable in to attach my phone...
Sorry if this has already been added but for me the car has to be locked. I then start the app, wait for the spinning refresh wheel (top left) to finish and then go to the status page and let that scan. Once that works, everything connects just fine. If it doesn't, I refresh and normally that...
Stupid question. I can see the privacy policy but where is the global data switch
It doesn't matter... I rejected then accepted the privacy policy and hey presto... the app works. Thanks @MrSpongeHead :)
Kind of hijacking the thread in desperation. But rather than being frozen, my charging flap won't stay closed so it seems to actuator has failed. Has anyone else come across threads on this topic or had the same problem out of interest? Maybe the cold weather affects that as well lol.
I think there are a lot of problems with iSmart at present and it has been pointed out that they get worse when the temperature plummets. No idea why that would be so I am scratching my head but it seems accurate.
If I can persuade myself to go out in the cold I will check the time on my...
I'm also affected by what appears to be a current general issue. I cannot connect at all despite using all the usual tricks. It has been stable for months and now I can't use iSmart at all. Interestingly the actuator in the charge door has failed but I will ask a separate question about that...
Hi @fnegroni
I've got the same Veepeak / car scanner approach as you (I'm android) and I can connect using Bluetooth just fine. When I try Bluetooth LE it doesn't connect to the ECU.
The main challenge I'm having is with ABRP and I wondered if you use that? When I try to connect that to my...
Happy to help @gravity. Worth noting that since that post I did get the clip replaced by the dealer as apparently this is a known issue and if it keeps recurring that is the fix. I've had no instances since then but if it has sorted yours then you can avoid a dealer trip 👍😁
For my part this was resolved via the connector clip under the driver seat being replaced. Hasn't occurred since. So if anyone has this recurring problem try the dealer.
A good point well made. Does it make a difference if there are multiple levels of warnings i.e. this is amber but red is a fail?
Mine has vanished for the last week anyway but is in the garage in the morning ?
Hi and thanks for the suggestion,
I did try that yesterday but even that (and the scan, refresh) didn't work which is worse than normal. I'll go through the motions of refresh, scan, unlock, lock and see if that helps the next time.
Fingers crossed!
Hi all,
I've had real problems with the app this week after a period of relative stability (actually being able to connect and control HVAC). Has anyone else experienced problems and are there any cast iron ways to get a connection each time it is required?
Thanks,
Rob.
I have had a lot of success set on max @Rolfe so my thanks for that and apologies for the delayed update. In the last week (just as it got cold!) the app has been terrible though and it refuses to connect.
I normally have to go in and scan the vehicle then it sorts itself out but this week it...
HI @KH11 - I have the same on / off problem and it is going into the dealer on Monday for a follow-up after them diagnosing a faulty clip under the driver seat. I had some success wiggling it (!!) but it stays off for a few days then comes on and off which is pretty annoying.
I was told (in my...
I think my small amount of charge is unlikely to impact the grid to be honest and the balancing is likely to be related to what people actually use, not what chargers (or people) say they will use.
If there's a better way than editing every single time I want to plug in my car then great, but I...
This could be a little cynical but based on them not sorting out potentially serious driver safety issues, I don't hold out much hope of them responding to any map feedback.
But.... it might be worth working out where they get their map data and feeding back to the source somehow i.e.: whoever...
I have Ohme Home Pro and IOG also and I just leave the car on either 70% or 80% max and the Ohme is always left on "add 80%" irrespective of whether I want 5% or the full 80%.
I don't have any routines set on either car or Ohme and so far this has worked perfectly so I would set the max charge...
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