2kW charge?

Alun26

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Hi all

Is there any way of reducing the charge that the car accepts to 2 kW so I can take advantage of the sunny sunny weather with my PV system, as my Ohme Home Pro does not do this?
 
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You can also by a variable output granny charger typically 6, 8,10 and 13 amp. This way you can match your charger output to your solar production.
 
Is there any way of reducing the charge that the car accepts to 2 kW
Unless the facelift has an option for this, not really, no. You would need to change the duty cycle that the pilot signal is emitting, which is buried in the bowels of the electronics of the "charger". So generally, there is no easy way of changing that.
 
Hi all

Is there any way of reducing the charge that the car accepts to 2 kW so I can take advantage of the sunny sunny weather with my PV system, as my Ohme Home Pro does not do this?
Depending on if you have load balancing set up you can reduce ohme home Pro to 3kw
 
Hi all

Is there any way of reducing the charge that the car accepts to 2 kW so I can take advantage of the sunny sunny weather with my PV system, as my Ohme Home Pro does not do this?
I am in the same situation as you, i bought this charger

Charger

And it has a button on the side, where you toggle through what amperage you want.

It does 6, 8, 10, 13, 16 and you just select the desired "speed" before plugging it in.

Mine is usually set to 13A, which in reality makes it run at 11.8 amps (Probably to not trip the fuse, if it is a 13A fuse). This puts about 2400 Watts into the batteries (According to the MG app) and leaves 1200 watts in surplus for the rest of the house (I can not go above 3600 watts as the inverter can only deliver 3600 Watts into the grid and if i use more, i need to pay for it, which i am very opposed to :) )

Not endorsing that particular product, just saying, it is possible to get one, that is even adjustable.

I sometimes run it at 10A, if the missus needs to run the clothes dryer, it uses a constant 500 Watts so i need to lower the wattage of the charger a bit.
 
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Mine is usually set to 13A, which in reality makes it run at 11.8 amps (Probably to not trip the fuse, if it is a 13A fuse)
I find that my MG ZS EV Mk 1 draws a bit less than what the EVSE (wall "charger") specifies, by about half an amp. I also have a Nissan Leaf, which I charge through the same "charger", and it draws closer to the requested current.

My guess is that there is some legal requirement to never exceed the requested current. So MG find it expedient to have the on-board charger draw slightly less than requested, so they are always safe, and nobody has their plug overheat because of their MG vehicle. Personally, I find that annoying, but others may appreciate the slight additional safety.

I would think that a 13A circuit would likely not be protected with only a 13A fuse, though I can't speak for conventions in the UK. Perhaps I can be corrected on that. I believe that some UK plugs have an integral fuse, for example, which is never seen in Australia (as far as I know).
 
I would think that a 13A circuit would likely not be protected with only a 13A fuse, though I can't speak for conventions in the UK. Perhaps I can be corrected on that. I believe that some UK plugs have an integral fuse, for example, which is never seen in Australia (as far as I know).
Yes here in the UK are 3 pin pulgs are fused like 3amp 5amp 10amp and 13amp the sockets are normally supplied by Eva ring of 2.5mm twin and earth with 32amp mcb/rcbo or a radial 2.5mm twin and earth with 16/20amp mcb/rcbo and the 3 pin sockets will take max 13amp but only designed for constant current of 10amps that's why manufacturers supply granny lead with 10amps and sum will even have a thermal cut-out built into the moulded plug
 
I find that my MG ZS EV Mk 1 draws a bit less than what the EVSE (wall "charger") specifies, by about half an amp. I also have a Nissan Leaf, which I charge through the same "charger", and it draws closer to the requested current.

My guess is that there is some legal requirement to never exceed the requested current. So MG find it expedient to have the on-board charger draw slightly less than requested, so they are always safe, and nobody has their plug overheat because of their MG vehicle. Personally, I find that annoying, but others may appreciate the slight additional safety.

I would think that a 13A circuit would likely not be protected with only a 13A fuse, though I can't speak for conventions in the UK. Perhaps I can be corrected on that. I believe that some UK plugs have an integral fuse, for example, which is never seen in Australia (as far as I know).
i agree, my charger is connected to a 16A fuse.

If i set it to 16, i would understand that it only drew 15A to not go all the way to the line with the fuse.

If i do the calculations using the display on the charger, and adds the voltage and the amperage that is displayed, and i then compare it to the charge the MG app says the car is getting, i also see about 200 Watts less into the car, than the charger displays, but a bit of math again, says that this is a loss of about 10%, which as far as i have been able to read, is pretty standard.

The rest is lost to heat in the batteries, and losses in the car's AC to DC inverter.
 
So adjustable granny charger this look good if your in the market
 
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