An update on the increasing play on my loose steering column :)

[Paulie68]

You might remember my post about play in my steering column from a while ago. well it got gradually worse until it could be moved up and down about 5mm.

Today, I had the plastic panels off to wire in my auto dimming mirror, and sort out the buzzy rattle from the A pillar cover, so had a good look at it whilst I was under the dash.

The height adjustment lock seemed the most obvious starting point, it seemed fine. I did tighten the nylock nut just a little to make sure, but there was no play from the lock mechanism.

After much searching I did find the causes, which were twofold, and the second part of the reason wasn't at all obvious to see! I suspect a lot more people will be getting this issue over the coming months as the mileage increases and the wheel gets pulled around. It'll be interesting to see how good the dealer technicians are at getting to the bottom of it.

The steering column is attached to a reinforcing bracket that is welded to the cross tube that runs the full width of the dash with 2 bolts. The bolts actually go through nylon inserts that sit between the two pieces of metal. Although the bolts were tight, the inserts seemed to have settled allowing play between the column and the cross tube bracket. Further tightening of these bolts removed this play. So for so good. I should have taken pictures, as that probably sounds as clear as mud, but forgot to!

This alone though only removed about half the play, something was clearly still not right. After much head scratching and staring at everything with a bright torch whilst pulling the wheel up and down, I realised the remaining movement was the cross tube under the dash itself flexing, even though it is solidly bolted at each end of the dash. Now, it shouldn't be able to do this, as it has a significant structure welded to it bracing it at the point above the steering column....

So, after suspecting a possible failed weld between this bracket and the cross tube and contorting myself into a pretzel under the dash area, EUREKA!! I found the issue. There was play between the support bracketry and the bulkhead itself. Again I should have taken pictures!

And here is the bolt that holds the bracket to the bulkhead. It wasn't very tight at all! Complete with its two QC paint marks! I suspect they are using too low a torque setting allowing it to work loose. Hidden away under the scuttle panel, It wasn't at all obvious where to find it initially!

Anyway, the wheel and column is as tight as a drum now Don't know if this will also have cured the slight, random, clicking noise, as I've yet to road test...

 

[Allen78]

Brilliant job I have the same problem and the clicking noise when turning the wheel from left to right. It's been at the mg garage twice for this problem and they haven't found the fault yet I shall go back armed with this to see what they think and hopefully it will get fixed. ?

 

[Paulie68]

Brilliant job I have the same problem and the clicking noise when turning the wheel from left to right. It's been at the mg garage twice for this problem and they haven't found the fault yet I shall go back armed with this to see what they think and hopefully it will get fixed. ?

Well I don't know if the clicking has gone yet, I'll report back after I've driven it tomorrow. My clicking is only very slight anyway but the play started to creep in at about 1500 miles and got steadily worse.

 

[Allen78]

Well I don't know if the clicking has gone yet, I'll report back after I've driven it tomorrow. My clicking is only very slight anyway but the play started to creep in at about 1500 miles and got steadily worse.

Yes please do report back will very interested to hear if the clicking has gone.

 

[Paulie68]

I'm happy to report that the clicking does seem to have gone away as well!

 

[Allen78]

Well I don't know if the clicking has gone yet, I'll report back after I've driven it tomorrow. My clicking is only very slight anyway but the play started to creep in at about 1500 miles and got steadily worse.

Hello
I've managed to video the clicking I have does it sound the same. It is a strange noise I've emailed it to the dealer so hopefully we will get to the bottom

I'm happy to report that the clicking does seem to have gone away as well!

That's good to hear. I have recorded the clicking noise and emailed to the mg dealer so it can hear it and hopefully it will be 3rd time lucky for me.

 

[DangerousDoug]

I have this same problem - the clicking noise when turning the wheel. If I move the wheel left and right, i feel slight play and hear the same metallic clicking. I took it to my dealer but the tech misunderstood and was looking for play in the rack, so it didn't get fixed. I now have more ammunition and better descriptions to take to them - thanks a lot for the post!

 

[Mgkev]

Many thanks paulie68 for taking the time to inform us of the fix for this issue.

 

[Paulie68]

Nearly a month on, just to confirm, no play has returned and no clicking noises! Don't let dealers fob you off, the cure here is to tighten the three bolts mentioned, that's it, simple!

 

[DangerousDoug]

Thanks once again, Paulie68, for your detailed description of this issue. On the strength of your post my dealer took my car on Monday and lo and behold, they found the loose bolt! So mine is now click-free too! Hooraaayy!

 

[Mark Holmes]

Fantastic result from sharing experiences, well done

 

[Portgordon]

Excellent bit of investigation. Have to love your description of folding yourself into a pretzel under the dash been there many a time and that is a very apt description! Hahah

 

[Julian Gabe]

This sounds brilliant. The cure is found and I want to do this. Do you have to take the dash apart to locate the two internal bolts or can you do it just from under the dash area? I can do the pretzel thing but can’t see any obvious bolts to tighten.

 

[Paulie68]

This sounds brilliant. The cure is found and I want to do this. Do you have to take the dash apart to locate the two internal bolts or can you do it just from under the dash area? I can do the pretzel thing but can’t see any obvious bolts to tighten.

Unfortunately there is some dis-assembly required to access the bolts. Outside the wipers have to be removed, then the scuttle panel under the windscreen, to access the bulkhead bolt. Inside, the plastics under the dash have to be removed to access the 2 main bolts between the steering column and cross member, this is somewhat involved and not obvious to those who aren't used to how cars are screwed together. You first have to pull back the door seal, remove the dash end cap to reveal hidden screws that allow removal of the main lower panel beneath the steering column. The steering column panels have to be split and the upper section with the material lifted out of the way and held there with suitable tape on the dash binnacle so you can see and access the bolts. It's not a job for just anyone, and frankly I see some possible damage occurring by some who may be less skilled at this kind of work, (including dealer technicians!) All the plastics and snap in clips and such on this car seem to be quite brittle, so proceed very carefully.

 

[Julian Gabe]

Thank you ??

 

[sideways]

Do

Unfortunately there is some dis-assembly required to access the bolts. Outside the wipers have to be removed, then the scuttle panel under the windscreen, to access the bulkhead bolt. Inside, the plastics under the dash have to be removed to access the 2 main bolts between the steering column and cross member, this is somewhat involved and not obvious to those who aren't used to how cars are screwed together. You first have to pull back the door seal, remove the dash end cap to reveal hidden screws that allow removal of the main lower panel beneath the steering column. The steering column panels have to be split and the upper section with the material lifted out of the way and held there with suitable tape on the dash binnacle so you can see and access the bolts. It's not a job for just anyone, and frankly I see some possible damage occurring by some who may be less skilled at this kind of work, (including dealer technicians!) All the plastics and snap in clips and such on this car seem to be quite brittle, so proceed very carefully.

Do you think tightening the bolts underneath the scuttle panel would do the job and is it easy?, rather worried about taking the plastic off under the steering column.

 

[DangerousDoug]

I took mine into my dealer, showing them this thread. They did the work under warranty, and no more clicking

 

[Paulie68]

Do

Do you think tightening the bolts underneath the scuttle panel would do the job and is it easy?, rather worried about taking the plastic off under the steering column.

Taking off the scuttle panel and tightening the one bolt there is easy. Whether or not it will do the job, It wouldn't have in my case, but everybody might not have the same cause.

 

[sideways]

Taking off the scuttle panel and tightening the one bolt there is easy. Whether or not it will do the job, It wouldn't have in my case, but everybody might not have the same cause.

Thank you Paulie, scuttle panel straight forward?

 

[Paulie68]

Thank you Paulie, scuttle panel straight forward?

Yes, pop off the wiper arm caps, take off the two 13mm nuts, wiggle the arms up and down carefully until they crack loose (Grease the mounting faces when you re-assemble as bi-metallic corrosion builds up there, you'll most likely already have some) remove the wiper arms. Then undo the 6mm bolts each side on the scuttle, self tappers along the front edge, a couple of plastic locking rivet things to pop out at the sides, then carefully lift up the scuttle. You'll need to be careful with the washer jet pipe, carefully unclip it as needed and twist it off at the tee junction.

When you find the bolt, as shown above, it may seem already tight, but go ahead and tighten it some more, until it's really tight, you might hear some clicking/creaking of the metal as it compresses the sandwiched layers, this takes out the play.

Re-assembly is the reverse of the above obviously. I will stress, I'm not convinced this alone will solve your issue, it will stop any flexing of the crosspipe under the dash, that the column bolts to, but on mine, the column itself had play too and needed its bolts tightening a little more as well.

Be careful, if you have a "feel" for this type of thing, with an engineering background, you'll know how much you can tighten the bolts, to get them what I'd call good and tight, but without risking shearing them. Do this at you own risk and all that, if in doubt, get a (competent!) mechanic to do it for you.