Charging MG4 issues

What are you classifying as a "non-genuine EVSE"? (The AC charger is built into the car).

Remember that the latest poster's issue is regarding a "granny" charge cable/box, not a 7kW EVSE.
 
What are you classifying as a "non-genuine EVSE"? (The AC charger is built into the car).

Remember that the latest poster's issue is regarding a "granny" charge cable/box, not a 7kW EVSE.
Apologies for not being clear, this was a 'granny charger' that plugs directly into the mains- I tried 2 different ones, the only one that worked when away from home was one of these.
 

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Hi guys, I am having troubles charging my SR MG4. I've seen this yellow battery icon (see picture attached) on the screen, is it possible to be the main reason why it won't start charging and what could be an easy fix solution? Thanks
 

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@dannyg3081 can you post here a couple pictures of the granny charger? To show us two things:
1) any lights to indicate a fault?
2) the granny charger’s specification.
There is no fault on the charger. Is a Taysla charger because the car didn't come with it's own granny charger, only with Type 2. What I could see is that is not recognizing the ground, the charger I had with my previous car, had no issue with that. The ground is very well done, because I have two solar panels systems.
 

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I think I've got it, the main battery is in shut off mode. I have no idea how to solve this issue. I wanted to disconnect the 12 V battery but since you need to start with minus, I've given up because I couldn't disconnect it.
 
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On my car (also a Standard) I had to set the clock to manual for the scheduled charge to work, otherwise the charge wasn't starting.

Since then I have been keeping it on manual time, not wanting to disturb something that has been working.
 
Are you allowed to charge at 16A in Romania?
The maximum here in uk is 10A from a 13A socket for safety reasons.
Yes, that's not a problem as long as you can have the proper infrastructure. I do have solar panels and I could get even higher, up to 20 A but I don't need that. My house is new and it was made to be able to take out up to 7 kW.
 
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Just throwing this out there to see if anyone has tried or thought about trying

245 width tyres instead of the 235 to get a little extra grip ..

Had this conversation with my MG dealer / service manager and was just looking to see feedback from others

Service Manager did say it could be done on the stock X power rims
 
On my car (also a Standard) I had to set the clock to manual for the scheduled charge to work, otherwise the charge wasn't starting.

Since then I have been keeping it on manual time, not wanting to disturb something that has been working.
How did you set the clock on manual? Do you ever had the HV battery shut off yellow message screen? What can I do in order to have that fixed? Thanks
 
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How did you set the clock on manual? Do you ever had the HB battery shut off yellow message screen? What can I do in order to have that fixed? Thanks
To switch between auto time sync and manual, it is right under the 24-hour mode setting in the general settings (the gear icon not the car icon).

I was never actively trying to fix my issues with the scheduled charging, either it fixed itself or it was my manipulation of the clock that did it, so I couldn't tell what was the indicators on the cluster.

From what you showed though, there is nothing anormal. If your car is plugged but not charging then the battery should be cut-off so the indicator should be lit according to that fact.
 
If you want more grip just change your tyres to a more performance oriented rubber.

The day I lost the back end was the day I decided to ditch the stock rubber.

I've since done 7000 miles on my PS5's and lack of grip has not been an issue since. (No matter how spirited or how wet it's been.)

Go up a size if you wish, especially if you're tracking it, but even on decent 235's, you won't get near the full capabilities of the tyre on the road.

(Unless you drive like a lunatic ?)

20240806_094858.jpg
 
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There is no fault on the charger. Is a Taysla charger because the car didn't come with it's own granny charger, only with Type 2. What I could see is that is not recognizing the ground, the charger I had with my previous car, had no issue with that. The ground is very well done, because I have two solar panels systems.
My problem was the granny charger(s) were not 10A, but 12A - hence why I said that the MG4 was fussy. Never had another issue once I got a genuine MG charger.
 
To switch between auto time sync and manual, it is right under the 24-hour mode setting in the general settings (the gear icon not the car icon).

I was never actively trying to fix my issues with the scheduled charging, either it fixed itself or it was my manipulation of the clock that did it, so I couldn't tell what was the indicators on the cluster.

From what you showed though, there is nothing anormal. If your car is plugged but not charging then the battery should be cut-off so the indicator should be lit according to that fact.
Tomorrow I've got an appointment to the dealer in order to solve the problem and also to update the software. Because I don't like the idea of having shown on the main screen 24°C but there is almost no heating until I change it to 26°C.
 
Tomorrow I've got an appointment to the dealer in order to solve the problem and also to update the software. Because I don't like the idea of having shown on the main screen 24°C but there is almost no heating until I change it to 26°C.
What’s the ambient temp?
I leave everything on AUTO except I manually select the windscreen and feet vents. If it’s a bit too hot I open the face vents too.
 
I didn't check the real temperature but it felt more like 18-19°C instead of 24°C.
By ambient temp I mean the outside temperature.

The temperature inside the car is around 3C less than indicated: the gauge numbers are wrong, there’s a picture in the quick ref manual showing 22 in place of 25 in earlier software versions.

Air from the windscreen and feet vents is warmer than from the face vents. But for efficiency the HVAC on AUTO seems to favour the face vents which in turn means a battle between the two.

If you manually control the vents, and select feet and windscreen when you want to maintain a mild to warm temperature, and all three when you want to maintain a cooler cabin, with occasionally face vents only when wanting to cool quickly, then that works much better.
 
By ambient temp I mean the outside temperature.

The temperature inside the car is around 3C less than indicated: the gauge numbers are wrong, there’s a picture in the quick ref manual showing 22 in place of 25 in earlier software versions.

Air from the windscreen and feet vents is warmer than from the face vents. But for efficiency the HVAC on AUTO seems to favour the face vents which in turn means a battle between the two.

If you manually control the vents, and select feet and windscreen when you want to maintain a mild to warm temperature, and all three when you want to maintain a cooler cabin, with occasionally face vents only when wanting to cool quickly, then that works much better.
The outside temperature was around 11-12°C. What is HVAC on auto? By the way how is during the winter, does the front windows get wet or filled with moisture?
 

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