Dashcam install

[Shanecb]

As a very simple solution these work well.
Amazon product ASIN B01CJOP914

Thank you, but these are rechargeable battery lights and would turn on each time I moved. I was hoping for an install similar to @AdamskiEM above with the orange glow, but only to come on when opening the door, but turn off soon after. I also know I'll never bother to charge them up so would need wiring in somewhere.

I'd better start another thread so as not to hijack @jamesc83 post.

 

[Cocijo]

Oh ok. I misunderstood. They’re useful in the boot, glovebox or other dark areas where there is only movement when accessed. Are the MG4’s interior lights poor?

 

[Shanecb]

Oh ok. I misunderstood. They’re useful in the boot, glovebox or other dark areas where there is only movement when accessed. Are the MG4’s interior lights poor?

Might end up putting some of these in the rear though as the kids need a white stick and a dog, just to put their seatbelts on...

The interior light is nonexistent in the back.

 

[AdamskiEM]

Is that 5amp fuse the one that switches off as soon as you lock the door?

A bit off topic re the light (apologies), but anyone know of any lights that don't stay on for long or have a timer? I'd like them on when the door is opened, but off when closed...in fact I think I've just answered my question, I'd need to wire into the door sensor or interior light I guess?

That’s the hope. I’m waiting on the piggyback fuse in the post so I can confirm.

I’m hoping to hook into the door switch if I can for my lights too. Will report back if I leave luck, and also whether the fuse is the right one.

 

[Shanecb]

That’s the hope. I’m waiting on the piggyback fuse in the post so I can confirm.

I’m hoping to hook into the door switch if I can for my lights too. Will report back if I leave luck, and also whether the fuse is the right one.

Thank you...I'm rooting for you ?

 

[Will]

Hi @jamesc83 , how is the rear picture from that camera location? Would it be suitable for reversing/parking? I have a SE and finding rear visibility poor, so thinking about a rear camera to help. Thanks, Will

 

[AlunJ]

Installed my camera in my SR today, far from the easiest install I’ve ever done that’s for sure which is testament to how well the interior is put together anyway as it took me long enough to work out how the panels came apart. Tapped into fuse F44 which is for the front console power socket, so it powers up and down with the car. Had some fun because the fuse tap I bought from eBay didn’t fit so the plastic required filing down a bit, but alas it’s in and working as I want it to.

 

[AdamskiEM]

Installed my camera in my SR today, far from the easiest install I’ve ever done that’s for sure. Tapped into fuse F44 which is for the front console power socket, so it powers up and down with the car. Had some fun because the fuse tap I bought from eBay didn’t fit so the plastic required filing down a bit, but alas it’s in and working as I want it to.

Oh yeah, the fuse slots are very tight.. I had to cut off a decent amount of plastic on either side of my piggyback fuses! Assume you've gone for one that just comes on/off with the car and not got one that records when the car is parked?

 

[AlunJ]

Oh yeah, the fuse slots are very tight.. I had to cut off a decent amount of plastic on either side of my piggyback fuses! Assume you've gone for one that just comes on/off with the car and not got one that records when the car is parked?

Yeah my camera is fairly old now, a blueskysea B1W. I believe it has a capacitor rather than a built in battery and doesn’t have any battery monitoring or anything so best not keep it live.

 

[AdamskiEM]

Hi. I’ve finally got the fuse. Ended up putting the “switched” one into its own socket - F46, which is unused by default. The permanent live is in F21.

From my testing, the switched fuses only become live once the car turns on properly, which is when it detects a driver in the seat and the infotainment and dashboard come on

This is perfect for a dashcam, but not so good for my footwell lights… I’ll have to find a solution for those…. But the main thing is that the dashcam is working as it should.

Here’s a photo of my fuses for reference. It’s hard to see exactly where they’re attached, since the piggybacks are 90 degrees to the fuse board.

 

[Cocijo]

Hi. I’ve finally got the fuse. Ended up putting the “switched” one into its own socket - F46, which is unused by default. The permanent live is in F21.

From my testing, the switched fuses only become live once the car turns on properly, which is when it detects a driver in the seat and the infotainment and dashboard come on

This is perfect for a dashcam, but not so good for my footwell lights… I’ll have to find a solution for those…. But the main thing is that the dashcam is working as it should.

Here’s a photo of my fuses for reference. It’s hard to see exactly where they’re attached, since the piggybacks are 90 degrees to the fuse board. View attachment 13943

Thanks for sharing. What are you using the permanent live for?

 

[AdamskiEM]

Thanks for sharing. What are you using the permanent live for?

Parking mode on the dashcam. Does 10 fps when the car is parked

 

[Cocijo]

Ok, that makes sense. How are you protecting the 12v from discharge?

 

[AdamskiEM]

It’s part of the hardwire kit for the camera. You can choose at what voltage it shuts off. There’s a little box that the wires go into before the USB lead

 

[Cocijo]

I wonder how long it will run before it shuts off?

Some installs that I’ve seen use a separate battery pack for the permanent live feed that is topped up when the car is switch on. That way the cars 12v is not used for the dash cam when the car is off.

 

[AdamskiEM]

Since it’s a USB device, it’s unlikely to be pulling much. I doubt any more than 1.5A, and even that seems a lot for what it’s doing. A coupe of days at least I would hope.

I’m at 12.6V now and 49% in the HV battery. Will see what it says in the morning. Hopefully exactly the same, and it’ll still be recording

Sorry for the multiple posts. I’ve just had a look. Someone has done a test before, they found it was using between 0.35 and 0.6A while in parking mode. If the 12V battery is 50Ah, it’d should be worst case 80hrs to drain a full battery.

 

[AdamskiEM]

I got paranoid and lowered the treshold on the dashcam last night to 12.4v. When I went out this morning, the dashcam had turned itself off. So at least I know it's protecting the battery voltage

I dont really know what a safe threshold is for the battery. When I checked the app it was showing as 12.1v, but it keeps fluctuating whenever I look, sometimes it goes to 12.6v...

 

[Cocijo]

Well at least it’s working. I’m not a great fan of always on cams. My experience is they are ok in short term usage but there’s always the nagging feeling your battery might be drained if you leave them longer.

 

[Deleted member 9692]

Well at least it’s working. I’m not a great fan of always on cams. My experience is they are ok in short term usage but there’s always the nagging feeling your battery might be drained if you leave them longer.

I feel the same on this. @AdamskiEM my knowledge of electrics is extremely limited, I am getting THIS HARDWIRE KIT for my Viofo A119. Can you tell me if I can just wire in the switched connection thereby only having the cam on when driving? Any issues with that? Which other parts will I need, I hear I need a “piggyback fuse” do you have a link by chance?

 

[AdamskiEM]

That's the same kit I have. I believe it works if it's just connected to the switched live.. Worst case you could wire both into the same one I guess.

For the piggyback, I got this pack from Amazon:
Amazon product ASIN B09VYQGPZZ
It's the Micro ones that you need.

Shouldn't need anything else