Difference between Eco, normal and sport modes

[wattmatters]

Scientific debate has its place - I just think that this kind of forum isn't that place.

I don't think we should eschew such discussions.

There may well be more suitable places but people are free to not read an on-topic post.

Meanwhile not every post needs to be digestible for every reader. If someone does not understand but wishes to learn, they can always ask. If they are not interested then they can keep on scrolling. If the discussion were off-topic then I would agree with you.

Only have to look at threads on topics such as car connectivity and linking with customised software systems. My eyes glaze over when it comes to IT/connectivity stuff. I still read many of them though, I just might learn something but am not afraid to admit when it's over my head. But I do not begrudge for one moment the fact there are those who do post on such things. And by asking enough questions / seeking guidance I've been able to apply some of the in-depth stuff they've laid out for my own use. I learned something.

The original post asked about the "difference between Eco, normal and sport modes". Did the person asking the question expect an answer involving in-depth technical explanation and debate? Or were they looking for practical advice that they could make use of today? That's impossible for me to say. I suspect it was the latter.

You may well be right but why should a discussion be so narrowly defined?

Often great understanding emerges from asking what appears to be a simple question. And as we know, not every simple question has a simple answer. It's OK to recognise that we may not know, or that "it's complicated".

I definitely agree that providing something the lay person can grapple with is helpful but I see no reason to exclude the possibility some may also appreciate a deep dive.

 

[Rolfe]

I agree. There are threads that when I'm checking the posts all I do is give them a quick glance to make sure nobody is issuing death threats or anything, and move on, shaking my head in bewilderment. But many people do understand and are benefiting.

Also, we're not that strict about thread drift and keeping on-topic. If something gets out of hand we can always split it off into a new thread if it's interfering with the flow of the original thread, but I don't think that's the case here.

 

[clew]

Hi, I haven't seen this anywhere, so asking here.

There are eco, normal and sport modes - what are the differences? Is it just the feel of the car? I know sport steering is heavier than eco, but is the rest of it just down to a different throttle response, ie sport is harsher for the same throttle input? Or does sport mode actually have more power and acceleration?

If you drove all the modes in the same way, ie moderate acceleration, same cruising speed, same regen braking, would eco actually be any more economical (assuming the AC isn't set to go to eco mode at the same time) ? I haven't read anything to indicate why eco would be more economical.

Thanks

Just got a MG4 long range and the sport mode gives me a harder steering. Just tried it out but when I put it in sport mode it changes to snow mode after a couple of minutes. Weird.

 

[Tight Git]

Just got a MG4 long range and the sport mode gives me a harder steering. Just tried it out but when I put it in sport mode it changes to snow mode after a couple of minutes. Weird.

That was an issue raised with a few (all?) early models and was resolved with a software update. Looks like yours hasn't been properly updated.

 

[clew]

That was an issue raised with a few (all?) early models and was resolved with a software update. Looks like yours hasn't been properly updated.

Can I update it myself or do you have to go through the dealer?

 

[jackhill1]

Can I update it myself or do you have to go through the dealer?

If your car is new, the warranty should cover cost.

 

[clew]

If your car is new, the warranty should cover cost.

So you have to go to the dealer to get it updated?

 

[Tight Git]

So you have to go to the dealer to get it updated?

All updates have to be done at a dealer

 

[siteguru]

All updates have to be done at a dealer

Well ... owners can do some Infotainment updates if they're up to it.

 

[Tight Git]

Well ... owners can do some Infotainment updates if they're up to it.

Yea but best kept in another thread...

 

[Rolfe]

Are you sure it has actually changed to snow mode or is it just the display? When mine did last it was still actually in Sport but the infotainment display said Snow. A software update fixed it.

 

[crite40]

My 2022 ZS EV has the 3 modes. They do make a difference, though the acceleration in eco is still pretty high. According to the dash display you get about 15 km more range as you go from sport to normal to Eco. So about 30 km range extension in Eco mode. The steering does change but it is fine even for an old guy like me (I am 84) in sports mode. My car has just done 20,000 km and the battery is still at 98% according to its last test. My ZS is 96% solar powered as I have a 5 kW solar roof array and feed excess power to the car before returning it to the grid. NZ is a MUCH better environment for solar cars as we tend to have higher temperatures and a lot more sunlight at 36° South in my case, so I get quite concerned to see folks in places like Scotland trying to run an electric car. Expensive electricity and cold temperatures are a BAD combination.

 

[ozjohnd]

anecdotally Eco mode increases cruise controlled energy consumption on my 45km (110kph) highway driving to-from work (Mg4 LR77)

 

[crite40]

That's a thought ozjohnd! The top speed on almost all NZ roads is 100 kph and I don't do a lot of motorway driving. Perhaps pushing it in eco mode with a high cruising speed might upset the system. I presume that you know that regen is disabled when the cruise control is used? At least it is in my ZS. But Aussie roads are pretty flat by NZ standards so the effect may not be great. I still wonder why the cruise control disables regeneration, can't think why this should be at first glance and as a retired Electronics engineer who has built 4 small electric vehicles I do know something of motor control circuits.

 

[Coulomb]

According to the dash display you get about 15 km more range as you go from sport to normal to Eco.

I find that these are usually fixed percentage adjustments, same for heater/air conditioner use. So there is no usage data in that component of the range estimation, and possibly little science in it either.

Your actual range may vary.

 

[clew]

Are you sure it has actually changed to snow mode or is it just the display? When mine did last it was still actually in Sport but the infotainment display said Snow. A software update fixed it.

You are correct it doesn’t actually change. It just shows that it does, thanks.

 

[mj224]

I have to admit that when mileage is tight, I turn off the heating/climate system, and this gives me more mileage, or as you say, says it does. But it also gives me a warm feeling that I am going to make it....

Probably nearer the real range anyway...

 

[fnegroni]

On the MG4, ECO does a couple things to help save and recuperate more energy.
It can if you so wish be linked to the HVAC to automatically set that to ECO too.

I never noticed it consuming more when using ACC, if anything it used a little less or the same.
ACC on the MG4 does not disable regen coasting.

What does increase consumption is to have ACC constantly at a higher speed than the traffic in front. Due to its reduced elasticity, it’s best to set ACC to same or maybe let the car in front at times go a little faster. If the cars in front are also using adaptive cruise control, then no harm done. But if like most they keep changing their speed by a few miles per hour every few seconds, the ACC on the 4 will keep trying to match the speed unnecessarily.

When in traffic on the motorway in the UK I set the ACC to between 65 and 67mph: most drivers will be travelling at an indicated 70mph (real speed 67) and will keep creeping up to 72 and then down to 63 because they are coasting on a downhill or at the start of an uphill. I set ACC to the lower speeds I am comfortable with and then just press the accelerator to overtake. While I only increase the set speed by one mph at a time while traffic is speeding up.

 

[MattyS]

Very interesting discussion here. I have set up a custom profile and I've seen that theres a "horsepower" setting as well as pedal force setting so, if there was no difference in HP between modes, why would there be 2 options? Just curious. I'll do some unscientific testing (any excuse to drive my car tbh !!!)

 

[pjmmk]

Think the HP setting is more of a throttle response setting. Smaller movements of the pedal result in more power to the wheels. Pedal force seems to affect the brake assistance more than anything else. TBH I don't like high pedal force, it makes the brakes very grabby. I use custom mode all the time - sports setting for power, heavy for steering (which is still far too light IMO) and normal for braking (pedal) force.