MG4 Discharge Cable

JimW

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Location
St. Minver, Cornwall
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MG4 Trophy ER
Hello Everybody,
As storm Darragh played hell with our electricity supply in Cornwall and we were without power for 15 hours, it occurred to me that we had an EV sitting outside with a battery at 75% full. So, I was wondering if anybody had ever purchased a discharge cable for the MG4 and if so where/who did they purchase it from and also how successful was it as a supply of mains power for the house. (kettle, lights etc)

Thanks in advance and any help/comments would be appreciated.
 
I got this one a month ago just in case of local power cuts, but apart from testing it when I bought it, I haven't had to use it yet. I guess in most situations, I'd need to plug an extension cable into it, but it's nice and compact.
 
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I bought the MG cable from the dealership, expensive but I don’t fancy some random piece of plastic that should be fine. I haven’t tried it yet, but consider it something you should have in the car (like the granny charger) because you don’t know when you’re going to need it.

Technically speaking the MG4 does not support vehicle to grid (V2G) or vehicle to home (V2H) bidirectional charging. It only supports vehicle to load (V2L) so the output is limited. I believe it only supplies about 2 to 3 kW of power so may not sustain your house fully. There are more knowledgeable people around with the actually answers to this, but running your whole house off the car might not be an option.

The manual interestingly enough does not seem to mention any limitations, they just talk about “discharge” and using the discharge kit. I wonder if the car is able to support V2X bidirectional charging but it’s just software locked for now?
 
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Just a technicality ... the power output is in kW and not kWh. :)

And the onboard charger/converter is bidirectional, so will output 6kW+ if the V2L cable/plug has an appropriate resistor value. (Yes, it is rated to something like 2.2kW, but it will actually provide more).
 
Just a technicality ... the power output is in kW and not kWh. :)

And the onboard charger/converter is bidirectional, so will output 6kW+ if the V2L cable/plug has an appropriate resistor value. (Yes, it is rated to something like 2.2kW, but it will actually provide more).
A more knowledgeable person came along! 😃
 

They managed to get 10 kW in this test, that make me hopeful for the future as they are expecting bidirectional chargers to become more available here in Australia in the next year or so
 
I have the genuine MG V2L adapter. Works perfectly. Power outage and via extension cord, powered fridge freezer, some lights and 75" TV no issues and doesn't put noticeable load on vehicle at all. Also used it to power garage sectional door when no power and stuck in garage 😀. Powers 2kW induction hotplate with ease.
 
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Hello Everybody,
As storm Darragh played hell with our electricity supply in Cornwall and we were without power for 15 hours, it occurred to me that we had an EV sitting outside with a battery at 75% full. So, I was wondering if anybody had ever purchased a discharge cable for the MG4 and if so where/who did they purchase it from and also how successful was it as a supply of mains power for the house. (kettle, lights etc)

Thanks in advance and any help/comments would be appreciated.
Yeah got a cheap one off ebay.

Used it on arrival to test it.

Used it for real when we had electrical work done to power the router so I could continue to work from home.

Now have home backup power so will be less useful (albeit the Givenergy battery which powers the backup system seems to have stopped working for the last week or so, though that is another story).
 
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AC V2H is coming but for now V2L will do, could be useful in an emergency or camping for sure. If only the car had camp mode…
 
I bought the genuine mg one with my MG4 here in Australia. I think it says 13 amp max on the adaptor. So about 2.5 to 3kW max. I haven't had any issues using it to power a number of devices at home. I have looked into using the generator input on my home inverter/battery setup that allows limiting the power draw so you can keep the home battery going longer. I would be cautious about random eBay/Amazon products. Electricity can be dangerous and it's just not worth the risk to your family and property if something goes wrong. It is annoying that MG don't say in the manual or on the website anything about the capacity of V2L. I even direct chatted them and they couldn't give me an answer and the local dealers couldn't tell me either.
 
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I bought the genuine mg one with my mg4 here in Australia. I think it says 13amp max on the adaptor. So about 2.5 to 3kw max. I haven't had any issues using it to power a number of devices at home. I have looked into using the generator input on my home inverter/battery setup that allows limiting the power draw so you can keep the home battery going longer. I would be cautious about random eBay/Amazon products. Electricity can be dangerous and it's just not worth the risk to your family and property if something goes wrong. It is annoying that MG don't say in the manual or on the website anything about the capacity of v2l. I even direct chatted them and they couldn't give me an answer and the local dealers could tell me either
I suspect they don’t put any hard numbers on it because the car can do more than the adapter allows for. I’m holding out hope the car infrastructure can support V2H/V2G but they don’t want to admit that yet because… for reasons I don’t know.

Tesla seems to be doing a similar thing, someone in I think Norway managed to do bidirectional charging with their Tesla without any modifications, but officially Tesla can’t do that. It might be a similar case to Apple HomePod mini suddenly being able to tell temperature and humidity after a software update, proving that the hardware was there but just software locked.

I don’t really know why they wouldn’t just say the car is future ready for V2X, seeing as they keep saying the car can do OTA updates, which it doesn’t do… unless of course V2X is a dream on the MG4, although there was a test in Europe that got up to 10 kW through the car’s discharge mode. (See post #9)
 
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We live in north Scotland, so powering our CH oil boiler was important, everything else- nice to have. However, in addition to isolating the house mains circuits from the grid, the lack of an earth became the critical issue.

Our local electrical engineering company told me that, if mains power fails, the earth fails with it. So to make car battery powered house circuits safe, an earth spike driven into the ground has to be connected to provide an alternative. Apparently, it’s not just a case of banging in a spike somewhere and hoping for the best. Getting a satisfactory earth can be difficult and, in some cases, impossible.

So if I power up the oil boiler, can the radiators give someone a shock if the spike is ineffective. Not really the MG’s problem though!
 
I bought mine off ebay, and I've used it a few times now running a 2kW blower / space heater.
I use an RCD first at the V2L adaptor, then run my extension lead to the heater.
I had the heater on for about 6 hours the other day, the heaters thermostat made it cut in and out, so it wasn't fully continuous, and the car's battery only showed a 1% drop in capacity, from what I recall.
V2L is a very handy gadget to have around! ;)(y)
 
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there was a test in Europe that got up to 10 kW through the car’s discharge mode. (See post #9)
That 10kW was not through the car's on-board electronics, as it would be with V2L. They used some trick to get the car to energise its big CCS pins (probably by pretending to be a rapid charger) and used expensive external electronics to convert DC from the traction battery to AC, suitably synchronised and controlled so that it can push power into a grid. The traction battery is comfortable with a 10kW load; the car uses some 20kW cruising at highway speed.

So this was not via the car's normal discharge mode.

As a technical point, I'm surprised that the car's electronics that supervises rapid charges tolerated discharging. Maybe it wasn't happy with it, but knows that interrupting DC power under load is extremely harsh on contactors; they are typically rated at just two such interruptions. So it had no choice but to allow the discharge. That sounds wrong to me, so I'm probably missing some detail here. From the article, manufacturers like BYD were surprised that their vehicles allowed this as well.
 
My 2p's worth - though, please note, I'm not a sparky...
and also how successful was it as a supply of mains power for the house. (kettle, lights etc)
You can't use it as an alternative power supply the house unless you isolate the house from the grid.
Just to expand on @Ian Key's point.. connecting your V2L to the house, whilst the house is connected to the grid will most likely destroy your vehicles DC to AC inverter immediately.

And the onboard charger/converter is bidirectional, so will output 6kW+ if the V2L cable/plug has an appropriate resistor value. (Yes, it is rated to something like 2.2kW, but it will actually provide more).
I too saw some experiments on SpeakEV where greater power than the rated 2.2kW was achieved by using a non-standard resistor value in the discharge cable. Whether MG actually log discharge current and, if so, could use that to wiggle out of any future inverter failures is another question / concern :unsure:

Our local electrical engineering company told me that, if mains power fails, the earth fails with it. So to make car battery powered house circuits safe, an earth spike driven into the ground has to be connected to provide an alternative.
That is correct assuming your house has the most-common UK configuration of a TN-C-S earthing arrangement. It is not the case if your house has a TT-earthing arrangement. The latter is often found in rural locations where power is delivered via overhead cables.

Either way, you will need a transfer switch, a suitable earth, an RCD, N-E bonding on the supply side of the RCD and ideally a 'critical loads' panel that will supply the necessary low-power appliances (such as light, computer, boiler, fridges etc.) but not the high power devices such as ovens or kettles that would overload the V2L output. In the UK, this work, of course, must be done to BS7671 regulations, ideally by a suitably qualified sparky or otherwise very competent person.

An example of how this can be achieved is detailed in this forum...
(Mods... I assume I can link to other forums from here? If not, please remove it).

I use an RCD first at the V2L adaptor, then run my extension lead to the heater.
Whilst it is safe to use the V2L adaptor to power doubly-insulated devices without additional protection, an RCD is necessary for devices which have an earth connection, as a typical convection heater would required. However, without also installing a suitable earthing arrangement and N-E bonding, the RCD will not trigger in the event of a fault condition.

IMHO, the better and safer way to power your house via the MG's V2L connection is to use the V2L output to charge the low-voltage (48V) batteries typically found on a home PV/ESS system. This can be simply achieved if your existing hybrid inverter has a generator input. Alternatively the use of an additional charger can be used to charge the inverter's batteries in parallel with the existing inverter. A few members on here have done that already. Another benefit of that configuration is that the home batteries become a 'buffer' storage and the power that can be drawn by the house will only be limited by the existing home inverter's output, rather than the 2.2kW of the MG4.
 
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