Not proud of it, but hit 0% battery range a mile from home and made it back!!!!

I took the car down below 10 miles range to condition the battery yesterday. It was interesting that as I drove around the block in Sports mode, dropped to 9 miles, then the screen was flashing that I needed to charge, so I dropped into Normal mode and circled until that dropped out into warnings to charge, popped it into Eco mode where I again saw 10 miles range, but a couple more circuits and heaters blasting and I was below 10 and ready to go home for a charge.
Is conditioning the battery in this way something you do frequently?
 
Is conditioning the battery in this way something you do frequently?
After sharing a low battery near miss, the forum reminded me that it is good to condition the battery by taking it right down every 6 months.
I may have misinterpreted that as below 10 miles range, rather than below 20% battery SoC.
 
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So in a car that allegedly does 165 miles on a full charge, that is16.5 miles or less, in the absence of a battery percentage display in the car.
 
On the Mk1 ZS EV that I used to own the HV battery status consists of 8 blobs on the dash at the bottom of the power dial.
From all showing at 100% SOC the first 7 then disappear at 11% intervals with the last blob representing the final 23%. This final blob then flashes when about half used. Unfortunately there is no more accurate display within the car until you start charging, which then flashes up briefly the actual SOC.
So maybe drive until the flashing starts.
 
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Does the manual for the car mention doing full calibration charges (10 - 100%) every 3 to 6 months as well as the more frequent conditioning / balancing charge to 100% ? If not, doing the calibration charge may have no effect on your car.

On the MG4 the calibration only improves the accuracy of the GOM and the balancing charge improves the long term health of the battery.
 
I don't see how any GOM can be accurate if it doesn't get a long charge now and again. Imagine you're trying to keep track of the depth of water in a well by counting how much water flows in and how many buckets are drawn out. If you never see the bottom then after a while you're guessing. One day when a lot of buckets are drawn out you may suddenly see the bottom and get quite a shock.

Getting a good look at the bottom then measuring how much water flows in in a single uninterrupted fill is necessary to recalibrate your understanding. So it is with cars.
 
You would hope that is the case for the most recent designs, especially for LFP batteries.

For older designs they could be more basic, e.g. they could spot the high and low thresholds and use a standard curve in between. Maybe with the smaller batteries they assume you'll reach the low threshold on a regular basis anyway? For NMC it wouldn't surprise me if originally they simply converted from voltage to percent or kWhr with a fixed curve.

Hopefully one of the ZS drivers will have read something about it.
 
Hopefully one of the ZS drivers will have read something about it.
Yep. It's a bit complicated. :)
 
Quite an interesting backgrounder, thanks.

A lot of the article deals with conversion of SoC to range which most EV drivers who read around the subject get to grips with quite quickly. But there are some useful nuggets of information throughout and also some numbers to put the different factors in to perspective.

Regarding the calculation of SoC, one interesting bit was "The errors that occur in the estimation of SOC by current methods are relatively small (1–8%)", although it doesn't mention the battery type in question or if that included the need for regular recalibration.
 
Personally I don't think I have ever seen anything in any user manuals for the EVs I have owned re calibration. Certainly mentioned to charge to 100% for balancing in every one.
I understand what everyone here is saying and the assumptions/beliefs they are making to arrive at them, however wouldn't the manufacturers point this out to us ??

There is an old old thread on SpeakEv about this and someone on there seems quite knowledgeable, however I offer no opinion as I simply don't know.

Link to SpeakEv thread, see post #7

 
I don't see how any GOM can be accurate if it doesn't get a long charge now and again. Imagine you're trying to keep track of the depth of water in a well by counting how much water flows in and how many buckets are drawn out. If you never see the bottom then after a while you're guessing. One day when a lot of buckets are drawn out you may suddenly see the bottom and get quite a shock.

Getting a good look at the bottom then measuring how much water flows in in a single uninterrupted fill is necessary to recalibrate your understanding. So it is with cars.
I like your explanation
 
Just putting our MG4 down for the long sleep. 9% to 100% every 6 months. Sounds like good advice ? Every 2 two hours we’re betting on how far it’s got. The winner gets to visit the fridge ? the loser gets earl grey tea ?‍?
IMG_0386.jpeg


Ok, the result are in. Our Evnex session history reads as below. I make that 9 quid for 200 miles :) finished on time as predicted in the Ismart app. And still managed to use 11% solar to get the job done. But didn’t do the balancing thing this time. Mmmm wonder why?
Can’t say I’m impressed with how much renewable energy is being generated in Queensland on a Sunday. :(
IMG_0388.jpeg IMG_0389.jpeg
 
Well it seems that the battery percentage is more reliable than the range guessometer!
 
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