So, Long Range you say ?

Then this happens

If you drive in Eco mode, the car tends to steam up because one of the energy savers is to reduce the power of the HVAC. Also make sure that the air recirculating button shows that it is in the correct mode and the arrow in the button has a gap to show that air is being drawn from outside and not the same air in the cabin.
 
So glad I got a long range.
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I've done 202 on a MG5 SR, with 11% left on the battery. and it said 181miles range when I started! All depends how you drive it.

If you drive in Eco mode, the car tends to steam up because one of the energy savers is to reduce the power of the HVAC. Also make sure that the air recirculating button shows that it is in the correct mode and the arrow in the button has a gap to show that air is being drawn from outside and not the same air in the cabin.
You crack the front windows open when it does that, and the condensation clears...

I've done 202 on a MG5 SR, with 11% left on the battery. and it said 181miles range when I started! All depends how you drive it.
A good way to save range/heating in winter is to put a fan heater in the car the night before, and switch it on 15-20min before you leave. Then the car will be toasty, and you're not using your precious HV battery to heat it! with the windows closed, that heat can last an hour or more...

It's all good. Been driving ev for 5 years now, 4 of which were in a 30kwh battery vehicle, all year round with a 500 mile round trip every 6 weeks, recharging every 50 miles, so the MG4 is a real treat. My bladder gives out far sooner than my battery charge.
This weekend I am driving Hayle - Wolverhampton - Oswestry- Hayle ( down through centre of Wales ) . I am fully aware of the vagaries of GOM.
Reset it this a.m. at the beginning of the trip, having been doing local 30mph trips all summer. GOM gave me 295@ 100%. Was going to go for trying maxing out range but realised it wasn't going to happen, so went to the other end of the scale and hammered it up here. Obviously the resultant figures of 200 miles @ 100%(ish) are based on that ( and much lower temps) . Still loving Tesla chargers ( and the car) . Will make the whole journey with every charge being Tesla apart from that one above, instavolt on electroverse, so quite smug about that.
Buy a 600-mile range Aptera, and you won't need to stop at all for charging!!!
 
A good way to save range/heating in winter is to put a fan heater in the car the night before, and switch it on 15-20min before you leave. Then the car will be toasty, and you're not using your precious HV battery to heat it! with the windows closed, that heat can last an hour or more...
I can't be arsed with all the faff of trying to eke out every last available mile, I drive to speed limits, use heating and Aircon as I need it, charge when I need to.

I don't see the point of driving everywhere slower than I used to in an ICE car, not using heating, keeping windows open to clear them.

All that proves is the anti EV brigade's point.
 
I can't be arsed with all the faff of trying to eke out every last available mile, I drive to speed limits, use heating and Aircon as I need it, charge when I need to.

I don't see the point of driving everywhere slower than I used to in an ICE car, not using heating, keeping windows open to clear them.

All that proves is the anti EV brigade's point.

Agreed. If you're doing any of that, you bought a shorter range car than you need. If you're charging at home your fuel is a lot cheaper than the fuel for your previous ICE car, but would you have done all that to squeeze out the last few miles from the tank? I doubt it.

Drive as you want to, and charge when you need to (or when it's convenient).
 
Agreed. If you're doing any of that, you bought a shorter range car than you need. If you're charging at home your fuel is a lot cheaper than the fuel for your previous ICE car, but would you have done all that to squeeze out the last few miles from the tank? I doubt it.

Drive as you want to, and charge when you need to (or when it's convenient).
The latter - charge when you can, not when you must.
 
Well, I suspect it's probably better for the battery to let it go down a bit before recharging rather than plugging in every time you get home after doing the school run. Like, I think I got back on 94% yesterday from a short journey. I'm off to Glasgow tomorrow, but I don't need that extra 6% for that journey so I'll just leave it. I think everyone has their routine about when they think it's worth plugging in, based on how low the car is and their anticipated usage. So I don't think it's all about always charging whenever you can. When you need to, and when its convenient covers most situations.
 
I'd like to know how much recent driving the range estimate is based on and how it is calculated.

Is it using the previous hour, or 50 km or what? What sort of averaging is it doing? I'd have thought an exponentially weighted moving average of the economy rate with perhaps an averaging constant of something like 20-50 km would be pretty useful. That way it factors in all previous driving but weights most recent driving the most, then uses that combined with the energy remaining to estimate range.
It take the last 50 kms , on that the next consumption is based .
 
I charged to 100% for the first time last week, and the GOM said I had a range of 320 miles and that is proving to be accurate at my consumption of 4.5 miles/kWh.
 
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Warm grey cloudy weather helps.
IMG-20241109-WA0004.jpg
 
A good way to save range/heating in winter is to put a fan heater in the car the night before, and switch it on 15-20min before you leave. Then the car will be toasty, and you're not using your precious HV battery to heat it! with the windows closed, that heat can last an hour or more...

...you could even run it off your battery using a V2L adapter giving you an in car heater that is electric, portable and not dependent on mains electricity! Win! Win! Win! :ROFLMAO:
 
I was driving a bit silly before putting it in the garage so lost some range :) but car is amazing on 225/40/18 wheels handles like a dream :)
Maybe late question, but going back to 225 40 tyre was a deliberate choice? Btw, you now run 105 kmh when your displays tells you it is 100 kmh..
 
Maybe late question, but going back to 225 40 tyre was a deliberate choice? Btw, you now run 105 kmh when your displays tells you it is 100 kmh..
It’s the other way around, the overall diameter has gotten smaller therefore the car is travelling slower than it indicates. The display will say 105 but the car is really doing 100.

1735304296798.png


It’s normally not advised to have more than 3% deviation from your OE fitted overall diameter, but could you check your speed @nexia201 with a gps Speedo app on your phone or something? And tell us if there is a difference in speed displayed vs speed you’re actually doing? We are having a yarn about it in this thread;


You would be our hero for putting it to the test! :D
 

Are you driving in ECO mode? Cars tend to steam up more unless in N or S. for all the difference in mileage I tend to use N mode at all times. My first MGZS had 163 miles range, newer has nearly 300 in summer. Don’t do many long distances in this car so range is never a concern. My advice is drive comfortably and enjoy the car. It drives much better in Normal with HVAC working much better. Have only used S mode infrequently. Too easy to induce wheel spin. (Fun at lights though when boy racers in their souped up Corsas try to out accelerate doddery old pensioner)😈
 
Not saying it's because I use Eco drive mode, but after year one (24k kms) with a total average of 18 kwh/100km including 9% charge losses, the average car consumption of my ER is nothing worse than 16,5 kwh/100km. Could be that low because I really do not care about children in 'souped up Corsas' .. ;)
 
(Fun at lights though when boy racers in their souped up Corsas try to out accelerate doddery old pensioner)😈

...but isn't it fun, 🤩I find I can really out pace them even in eco mode😈😁 I'm also of that brigade😆
 
The ER really is fast indeed. In ECO you simply need a heavier foot to match normal mode.
The initial reply was to explain one possibility for the vehicle steaming up. I get 3.7 miles per kWh over the year ranging from 2.9 in frosty weather to over 4.5 in summer.
 
Realistic or not what does it matter, only an absolute idiot would push their luck with any fuel type of car.
GOMs adjust as you drive not that it matters, everyone should have an idea of their cars capabilities and plan accordingly.
I think the point is resetting the trip computer to make it give you an unrealistic longer range is generally terrible advice!

It’s all fine and dandy if you’re familiar with driving an EV but there are people that aren’t.

If someone is doing a long trip for the first time in an EV and plans in a sensible charging stop, they are going to get pretty stressed out seeing the range plummet 50+ miles in a short period of time. They are probably going to be in for a bit of a shock if it’s on the motorway or winter. Let alone starting off with the car displaying official WLTP figures!
 

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