Reverse Camera SE LR

Yea, I had to replace the full cable from the glovebox to the camera.

I replaced the existing camera with the new one, ran the new cable from the glovebox to the camera, and cut the orange wire on the camera to make CVBS mode as I ordered the 1080P version. The hole required for the new camera is bigger than the previous one, so I had make the whole bigger.

One thing I did differently from you is that I never removed the spoiler. I just thread the camera wire from outside hole through the existing hole on the inside where reverse wire come through. - the wire you are pointing at here

The new cable is very similar to the old one. On the glovebox side, its the same yellow RCA connector that goes into the video plug with a power wire forking out which goes in the same pink power wire. On the camera side, its the 4 pin small connecter

I want to mount the camera without removing the spoiler - sounds like the cable can be threaded but how did you tighten up the nut on the back of the camera? I was wondering if I could reach inside by removing the number plate light but I can’t see how that’s done, either?
 
I want to mount the camera without removing the spoiler - sounds like the cable can be threaded but how did you tighten up the nut on the back of the camera? I was wondering if I could reach inside by removing the number plate light but I can’t see how that’s done, either?
I didn't use the bolt. Instead, when drilling the hole, i made it slightly smaller so that the thread of the camera would "screw" into the hole. It's tightly screwed in and so I didn't feel the need for a bolt
 
I was wondering about the bolt too and in the end decided to remove the spoiler. Right close to where the camera comes through there is a sort of oval hole (15mm approx) in the metal which is covered by a 50mm rubber patch on the other side. You could break the patch for better access but still don't think you could usefully tighten the nut to any degree.

Also in that area you may find the wiring looms are different to the video. Mine has an equal number of wires in each of the body to boot lid corrugated hoses.

I think there is a 99% chance of me damaging the other cables trying to get the phono connector through them, which would be really bad as I think some of them are aerial leads ?.

After looking at other options I decided I had to cut the phono off. I'll find out if the video is degraded when I solder them back together on another day. On the plus side I used the left hose and didn't have to route under the seats.

If I had a sleeve expander of a large enough diameter and length, that may have done the job. Looking on line it would cost about £55. The searches also brought up animal castration rubbers pliers for about £15 which had good diameter and 4 prongs, but small length. Also they didn't look quite man enough ?.

Regarding the troublesome white connectors on the spoiler removal: There is a latch on the right of the side facing you and another on the left of the side facing away. You can just use a screwdriver to release the front ones and tilt the spoiler a little to get the latch in to the hole.

For the rear latch on the RHS of the car it is angled a bit towards you and a screwdriver can be used with a bit of patience. For the left clip, rear latch you would need something like a screwdriver with a 5 to 10 mm bit at right angles on the end, perhaps cut out from a bit of metal or perspex? I took the easy way out and bought the suggested tool ?. (Still a bit fiddly but was always going to work).
 
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I didn't use the bolt. Instead, when drilling the hole, i made it slightly smaller so that the thread of the camera would "screw" into the hole. It's tightly screwed in and so I didn't feel the need for a bolt
This seems to have worked ok for me, too, although my hole was too close to the boot lid so I couldn't rotate the camera to screw it in, but with some flexing the thread has gone in and I don't think it will come out. it also doesn't sit totally flush with the black section but at a bit of an angle, this means my rear view is actually better (less rear bumper on view). The plug I was able to get hold of by slitting open the black oval of plastic on the inside of the boot lid. Still need to fish the cable through the rubber joining boot lid to frame (I have some stiff wire I am hoping i can feed through first and then pull the camera cable through with.

Not sure if it's co-incidence but my DAB reception is terrible now - wonder if the camera signal cable is interfering with the aerial cable in some way?
 
This seems to have worked ok for me, too, although my hole was too close to the boot lid so I couldn't rotate the camera to screw it in, but with some flexing the thread has gone in and I don't think it will come out. it also doesn't sit totally flush with the black section but at a bit of an angle, this means my rear view is actually better (less rear bumper on view). The plug I was able to get hold of by slitting open the black oval of plastic on the inside of the boot lid. Still need to fish the cable through the rubber joining boot lid to frame (I have some stiff wire I am hoping i can feed through first and then pull the camera cable through with.

Not sure if it's co-incidence but my DAB reception is terrible now - wonder if the camera signal cable is interfering with the aerial cable in some way?
Not had a problem with DAB, camera cable running through drivers side corrugated boot.
 
DAB and FM both still good here. Cable running through passenger side corrugated boot. Note @DevonMG4 and my harnesses are quite different in the boot lid though.

On going in to reverse, the radio softens to almost inaudible which i assume is a very useful feature and not what you've observed?

From memory there were several aerial type looking connectors on both sides which might be worth checking.
 
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So as promised, updating the thread here showing the wireless reverse camera affixed to a registration plate frame. I attached the frame to the factory fitted bolt holes instead of the cowboy drilled into the bodywork holes that the dealer did (a story for and from another thread!), this allows enough clearance to mount the camera at the top of the registration frame and give enough clearance to still access the boot release catch.

I used the standard euroclip registration plate frame with 3M VHB tape affixed to the reverse camera mount behind it. Note that you cannot fully open the hinge of the reg plate frame with that installed, but you can sufficiently open it enough to insert the reg plate and pull down the sprung holders.



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Simple install and very pleased with outcome. Works out more cost effective to buy a pack of two reg frames...image of the front frame.....

View attachment 17479

And yes, there are a couple of spots on the paving to weed :-D
Could you link us to the frame, or similar product? Thanks
 
Thought i'd add some pics of how it actually looks now when reversing. As you can see the lens distorts the image quite a bit and the lines are in the wrong place - compare with the third pic of what you see in the mirror. I think it doesn't help that the video image is stretched to a ultra wide screen format, if it was in 4:3 with the lines in the same place they might be about right!
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Many thanks DevonMG4 for the excellent videos, and Edd B for the added information.

Got a new MG4 10 days ago (so MY2023), and ordered the AliExpress reversing camera which arrived today. Started fitting it as per the videos, and a few minor lessons I might write up on a sheet.

From the posts above I was left a bit confused, so might help others if I add:
1. Kit currently being supplied by AE is as Edd B i.e. no power cables from camera. Leaves you with a superfluous red/black at the camera end of the long cable which as has been suggested, will be best to isolate.
2. The pink REV POW works for me giving 14.2V in R :)
3. With pink REV POW attached to the red cable on the glovebox end of the long cable, camera works with the orange steering lines (only), which work when the wheel is turned.
4. The camera only has a white loop of wire, not the green one. The minimal instructions say cutting this adds the 'immovable auxiliary lines'... which I have just checked and does exactly that (y)
5. May look at the adjustable Camera suggested above

Edit: few comments that getting the phono plug through the tailgate rubber conduit difficult. Thoughts on going the other way, so only needing to get the black connector through?
 
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For anyone looking to change the camera to an adjustable one, I got 4.01£ 75% OFF|AHD 1920x1080P CVBS Vehicle 170° Car Rear View Camera Night Vision Fisheye Golden Lens HD Universal Reverse 12V IP68 Waterproof| | - AliExpress

As expected, AHD mode doesn't work, only CVBS. I tried to use the existing cable from the old camera but that didn't work. I had to do use the cabling from the new camera to make it work, even though both are the 4pin cable. No sure why the old cable didn't work.

I would say being able to adjust the camera to see more directly to what is behind me is much better. Anecdotally, the image quality appears to be brighter and better too
Thanks for that... The link currently offers 3 varieties of camera: B, D and E. E only offers a higher res AHD than D so not worthwhile. Do you know which you got?

D offers a CVBS 1280x720 which might address Edd B's concern about the ultra-wide screen... no idea of the resolution of the AliExpress one?
 
Got a new MG4 10 days ago (so MY2023), and ordered the AliExpress reversing camera which arrived today. Started fitting it as per the videos, and a few minor lessons I might write up on a sheet.
Excellent. Well done, big brave pill rqrd to take apart a 10 day old car (but after all it is just a car!!)

I still haven't found time to upgrade my camera to an adjustable.
 
few comments that getting the phono plug through the tailgate rubber conduit difficult. Thoughts on going the other way, so only needing to get the black connector through?
I thought about that but decided the diameters were quite similar. However it doesn't have the sharp edges of the phono which may help.

If you go the phono route, how about sacrificing a short phono extension lead: cut in 2, attach one half to the camera phono and tape together, then put the cut end through first as a puller? This also removes the sharp edges of the phono.

I assume you've done this kind of thing before, but if not make sure the tape is applied from the end that passes through the hole last. That way the edges of the tape should be less likely to snag as you pull it through.

Lastly if you know an electrician they may have some Hellerine lubricant (not the grease) designed for this type of thing. It's certainly makes everything very slippery but costs nearly £10 from radio spares unfortunately. I've no idea of any down sides to using it.

In an earlier post I mentioned I had decided to cut the cable and should have reported the results. Basically it all went well and to my eyes the image quality didn't degrade as a result of me soldering them back together once I'd laid the cable. I also fitted a standard auto spade connector for the power (pink wire) to allow me to disconnect the camera quickly e.g. if I need the garage to fix an electrical problem with the car.

The signal wires are very thin however, and I had to use the soldering iron for less than a second at a time to tin and join the wires, to avoid the insulation from shrivelling back.
 

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> Well done, big brave pill rqrd to take apart a 10 day old car (but after all it is just a car!!)
Yes - but only happy to do it given your videos :)

Thoughts on going the other way, so only needing to get the black connector through?
I thought about that but decided the diameters were quite similar.

For various reasons e.g. time / testing, I have now done 2/3 of the job working backwards - rear seats removed / replaced, and the glovebox area now all replaced. So the camera wire is sitting in the boot, and the camera under a rear seat headrest, so essentially have to go black connector first.

Last job is to tackle the tailgate. I think I'll try and copy above and not remove the spoiler.

> I assume you've done this kind of thing before
Yes - as in threading wires / plugs through impossible holes in houses etc. Most impressive is the cotton wool and vacuum cleaner as a puller :)

> In an earlier post I mentioned I had decided to cut the cable and should have reported the results.
Thanks for those, I suspect I will need to cut the cable, either for routing and/or if I get an adjustable camera (£10 from AE). The resolution on the current one is not great, and it might be CVBS 1280x720 works and is better? BrownChair hints above it might be...

DAB still working fine, but have not done the tailgate. Rubber conduits both seem similarly full - of course the MY2023 has the rear wiper wiring to get into the tailgate.

>The link currently offers 3 varieties of camera: B, D and E. E only offers a higher res AHD than D so not worthwhile. Do you know which you got?
Sorry - I now see you got the E, so 1280x720CVBS... I'll order the D since the AHD advantage seems won't work.
 
I'll order the D since the AHD advantage seems won't work.
I've just done a photo of the screen with the E camera version and the quality is not brilliant when you look zoomed in. On the car screen it is much better but does have some shimmering and moire? type artifacts. I suspect there needs to be more filtering for the CVBS output.

Your decision to get the lower res version may help with the quality.

As you can see the fixed lines are different with the blue ones at 1.9m from the bumper.

Also are you aware the 2 cameras have the same connector but different pin usage? I put some info about that in an earlier thread. You may have to redo your cabling if you swap cameras.
 

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Also are you aware the 2 cameras have the same connector but different pin usage? I put some info about that in an earlier thread. You may have to redo your cabling if you swap cameras.
Thanks - yes picked that up from your thread (with delicate soldering!).

Your decision to get the lower res version may help with the quality.
The D (which I have just ordered) has the same CVBS resolution as the E - the E is only better with AHD. Thanks for that image... it looks pretty good quality to me.

My installation so far (propped on bottom of open tailgate rubber)... sorry about size but did not want to cut it down and alter resolution. Not sure about obsession with removing vehicle reg's but sure there's a good reason!) - I think yours is better resolution? As well as being adjustable and having Night IR (y)
 

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Thanks - yes picked that up from your thread (with delicate soldering!).


The D (which I have just ordered) has the same CVBS resolution as the E - the E is only better with AHD. Thanks for that image... it looks pretty good quality to me.

My installation so far (propped on bottom of open tailgate rubber)... sorry about size but did not want to cut it down and alter resolution. Not sure about obsession with removing vehicle reg's but sure there's a good reason!) - I think yours is better resolution? As well as being adjustable and having Night IR (y)
And this is what it should look like with the correct aspect ratio!
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I'm going to see what I can find in terms of a simple board/device that can take the composite video feed from the camera and squeeze the image down horizontally before feeding into the box to get this correct view. I have an old raspberry pi that may do it (has analog video out, not sure about the analogue in) but open to other ideas!
 
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