MG ZS Steering Fault - clicking when turning

[Lovemyev]

Due to other commitments, I have not had a chance to test drive our car yet after making the adjustments.
I have become SO conditioned to the clicking noise by now ( on both Gen1 and Gen2 models ) that if it IS still clicking, I will pick up on it straight away !.
When leaving the house, I have to turn almost full lock straight away as I reverse off our drive way, then almost full lock again, in the opposite direction, when on the road outside.
It is an absolute “given” that the clicking will be clearly heard when carrying out this procedure.
A permanent cure would be absolutely fantastic of course, but an improvement would be a small win I guess.
I know other members have had the steering columns replaced FOC under warranty, but I am not 100% completely convinced that this is ultimate fix either TBH.
As best as I can tell, this has been a problem on the early ICE models, prior to the Gen1 ZS EV being released.
It should come as no surprise then, that the problem migrated across the Gen2 facelift version.
The opportunity for MG to investigate and rectify this problem via a design update etc has long passed !.
They will just keep replacing them on demand until the new model is released.
Hopefully the new MG4 platform based model will not have the same system ? ( unlikely I would have thought ).

 

[xichas]

Has I said before I think that the steering column is ok and the replacement procedure or new washers or screws or torque used on it, is what solves the problem. In my search everywhere over the internet, never found information about the part itself of steering column or any wrong specification of an old steering column. Never found any difference between an old steering column and a new one. MG is spending lots of money in new steering columns with no need. If not, I request to all members that had their steering columns replaced to come and show the difference between old and new ones, or any change on the mounting screws or washers used in the replacement. Will certainly help other users to decide to ask a replacement under warranty or find the alternative solution that can help other users that have warranty expired! Regards!!!

 

[Lovemyev]

Has I said before I think that the steering column is ok and the replacement procedure or new washers or screws or torque used on it, is what solves the problem. In my search everywhere over the internet, never found information about the part itself of steering column or any wrong specification of an old steering column. Never found any difference between an old steering column and a new one. MG is spending lots of money in new steering columns with no need. If not, I request to all members that had their steering columns replaced to come and show the difference between old and new ones, or any change on the mounting screws or washers used in the replacement. Will certainly help other users to decide to ask a replacement under warranty or find the alternative solution that can help other users that have warranty expired! Regards!!!

Totally agree ?.
I have to say that I am a little disappointed that some dealers are unable to carry out a structured, stepped process of diagnosis, in order to correctly locate the problem ??.
With some simple checks before asking MG CS to authorise and then order an expensive complete steering column assembly ?.
Maybe they have struggled to get reimbursed for carrying out the simple check tightening functions in the past, so therefore have learnt to make a straight request to install a complete column ?.
MG CS will have a complied a history of this problem and therefore follow down the path of deciding to replace the entire column ??.
This should initially provide a fix of course, but because all the same factory torque settings have been used again, then after the car has covered some more miles, then the problem returns, to the customers disappointment.
Of course if the problem returns again, it’s extremely unlikely that the column will be replaced for a second time, just not going to happen !.
My comments are only theoretical until proved right or wrong of course ?.

 

[madmanacrossthewater]

I just had mine 'repaired' yesterday but it is still knocking although not as bad. Very disappointed.

 

[Lovemyev]

I just had mine 'repaired' yesterday but it is still knocking although not as bad. Very disappointed.

What did they do to try and fix the problem ?.
Have they replaced any components or just made some checks ?.

 

[Narrowgauge725]

My clunk is definitely getting worse, just got to wait until 21 Nov for the column replacing.

 

[Tim Green]

If its the UJ's, then surely you should not be using the car?

 

[Tread Softly Terran]

Just had my 2nd service for MGZS EV 2022 LR Trophy.
The MG service centre said the ratchet noise I had on turning, (particularly on full lock), just required loosening, greasing & re tightening. I appreciate this might not be the same clonking others have experienced, but thought I'd pass on what they said.

 

[Narrowgauge725]

If its the UJ's, then surely you should not be using the car?

If it is my post you are mentioning then my garage assured me that it wasn't a safety issue!

 

[Joebar]

Hello,
First of all, I'd like to thank the people on the forum who put forward their solutions for the noise generated when turning the steering wheel left and right.
Without them, I would never have dared touch the steering wheel of my MG ZS.

I bought my car second-hand and immediately got the 2 noises described on this subject.
The “clong” and also noises like machine guns when I was driving on the freeway.
For the latter, it turned out to be the connection between the steering wheel and the shaft that steers the wheels that was faulty. The 4-point link was damaged, and the seal and circlip were missing from one of the axles. It was very serious.

I had a lot of trouble with the garage that sold me this car, and the official MG dealership couldn't, wouldn't or didn't know how to repair these problems. I don't know what the right phrase is.
Moderator, can i put the various videos of the problems I encountered after this message ? is this allowed ?

So several days ago I set about solving the “clong” successfully. I had a lot of misunderstandings, but everything went smoothly. In the end, it wasn't complicated at all.

Since then, it's been a pleasure to have no more noises when driving. A “normal” car at last
The MG mechanic had told me that the noise was completely normal, yes yes. He dared to say that!

Anyway, to help others who have this problem at the moment, here are some photos of my repair to the steering wheel.
The arrows show where to tighten.
I tightened the bolt (bottom right) that locks the height of the steering wheel to the maximum, just to allow it to be adjusted. You then have to press quite hard to lock it, but I think it was very useful.
As I acted on several places at the same time, I can't say which is the most important.
But it's been working ever since. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it lasts.
I hope this helps others.

 

[Rob24]

Thank you Joebar.
This is very detailed and will help if someone needs to do the same..
Rob

 

[Coulomb]

Moderator, can i put the various videos of the problems I encountered after this message ?

You can post links to relevant videos, sure. If you have relevant videos on your phone or camera, upload them to YouTube or similar and post links.

 

[Tim Green]

The first picture in Joebar's account appears to show a U/J with a missing circlip which means the needle roller cage is free to fall out of the yoke. In a steering component this is lethal, and shows a real quality control problem.
The other issue where the height adjuster is improperly fixed count also contribute to failed steering by putting longitudinal stress into the column, further stressing the U/J.

 

[Joebar]

Here are the videos of the serious defect.
The MG dealer had not seen this and had assured me that it was safe to drive this vehicle

They had “officially” changed the steering column (they kept the car 8 days for this).
It was I who, thanks to the messages on this forum, discovered this huge defect.
I'm not at all a mechanic or in the car business.

I went back and when I showed them the videos, they told me to leave the car there.
They kept it for 6 weeks to finally change the parts.

But the noise on the steering wheel wasn't his fault.

---

Steering column noise :

---

The faulty link :

 

[Lovemyev]

When the customers complaint is:- “A can hear a knocking sound coming from the steering column”.
Then you would think that the tech, knowing that the upper steering column connects / attaches to the tail of the steering rack, via a twin universal joint.
Then the integrity of this joint would be very FIRST component to come under close scrutiny surely, as any unwanted play in this part can be a serious safety concern.
IF the joint is proved 100% secure, then move on and inspect other items that could cause the problem, but don’t prove a serious risk to the driver and passengers.
I am struggling to understand how the excess play in this UJ joint was not picked up before ordering and then installing a brand new steering column assembly ?.
Free play at the steering wheel should have been really noticeable with some easy checks.
The noise I can hear in your video, is not the same clicking sound experienced by myself on both ZS EV models we have owned.
It is vital that IF you hear or feel that something does not feel right at the steering wheel, then it’s important that you get it checked !.
Emphasis that you especially want the UJ checking as a real safety concern.
It can be check in minutes ( if you know what you are looking for ).

 

[Joebar]

When I gave them the vehicle,
I made sure to show them the topics on this forum and tell them it looks very similar to what is described.
They obviously didn't take it into account. In fact, I don't think they know how to repair these vehicles. It's easier to say everything's ok and force the customer to go home than to spend time looking for the problem.
Yes, clearly, when I showed this video to a mechanic friend of mine, he told me to stop using this car immediately.
When I physically showed the fault to the workshop manager, he told me it wasn't his fault, that he'd just come back from vacation. And that I should leave the car there and pick it up 3 days later. In fact, it took 6 weeks.
When they say they're changing the steering column, what does that actually mean?
Just the upper part of the steering wheel?

 

[Lovemyev]

When I physically showed the fault to the workshop manager, he told me it wasn't his fault, that he'd just come back from vacation

Had the service manager NOT been on vacation, do we actually believe that HE would have checked the condition of the UJ himself ?.
I somehow I seriously doubt that to be the case to be honest.
It just provided the perfect excuse to avoid the issue.
But ultimately he is responsible for the actions of his technicians regardless and should be second thinking about the capabilities of the techs HE has employed.
Had there been any serious consequences of this part failing it would be him finding himself in court.
He may not be so lucky if there is a next time.
The steering column replacement involves replacing the complete inner and outer sections of the upper parts of the steering column.
The inner shaft is was your steering wheel is attached to basically.
The lower section has both of the universal joints and can removed and replaced without the need to replace the upper sections if they are not the cause of the problem.
It is unusual to be replacing the lower section due to U.K. failure this early in the cars life cycle.
Maybe that is why they missed it ?.
Did they “assume” given the low milage that the joints would be okay ?.
Assume nothing - check everything or it will bite you !.

 

[xichas]

Hi! New developments!

After my tightening procedure, the clicking sound was gone, and very slowly came back as I noticed the that the tightening clamp of the steering wheel was losing strength... The procedure of the user Joebar was an idea... an so there I was again! I bought these nuts and washers...

Decided to replace the old nut with new one and add a washer and a nut over as on the image:

Made the tightening procedure first bolt tightened until maximum force of the clamp and added a washer and a new bolt.... secured the first one and tightened the second one.... and then noticed that there was some movement on those two screws... And I thought that could be the friction point where the clicking sound happens and decided to do this procedure:

Unscrewed one at a time and in the gap signaled in yellow added one of those washers and tightened again... My first impression was that the steering wheel is more robust and tight and after some weeks clicking sound gone for good!!! I will keep you guys informed if clicking sound returns.... Regards!

 

[Chris H]

I notice most of the pictures on here show the pre-facelift model; I'm not sure my problem was exactly the same in my 2024 ZS EV Trophy. I had a clonk only when turning right, I haven't had the machine-gun type noises. Anyway, I took the car in to get it looked at (among other things) under warranty and they said it needed a replacement steering column. After several weeks waiting for the part it was finally done within a day a couple of weeks ago and happily the noise has now gone away.

 

[boira]

Hi! New developments!

After my tightening procedure, the clicking sound was gone, and very slowly came back as I noticed the that the tightening clamp of the steering wheel was losing strength... The procedure of the user Joebar was an idea... an so there I was again! I bought these nuts and washers...View attachment 32462View attachment 32463

View attachment 32464View attachment 32465

Decided to replace the old nut with new one and add a washer and a nut over as on the image:View attachment 32466

Made the tightening procedure first bolt tightened until maximum force of the clamp and added a washer and a new bolt.... secured the first one and tightened the second one.... and then noticed that there was some movement on those two screws... And I thought that could be the friction point where the clicking sound happens and decided to do this procedure:View attachment 32467View attachment 32468
Unscrewed one at a time and in the gap signaled in yellow added one of those washers and tightened again... My first impression was that the steering wheel is more robust and tight and after some weeks clicking sound gone for good!!! I will keep you guys informed if clicking sound returns.... Regards!

Nice! Please keep us updated if the clicking doesn't come back this time