Imagine this!

Still lots of bearings, casings, shafts, diff oil to warm up on an EV is these will heat up go an optimal operating temperature and then of course tyres need to be warm to provide optimal grip.
 
Still lots of bearings, casings, shafts, diff oil to warm up on an EV is these will heat up go an optimal operating temperature and then of course tyres need to be warm to provide optimal grip.

Agreed, but the warm up is not as critical as in an ICE car IMO.

Anyway, only a numpty would thrash a car or bike from cold.

I knew a bloke in the forces that would start his car and immediately wheelspin it away out of the car park from cold.

He had it 4 years and it never let him down.

Honda Civic CRX.
 
I used to have a ZRX 1100 , big heavy beast , heavy powerful toquey engine , needed heavy frame, wheels and suspension to resist all the forces, and of course powerful front brakes capable of stopping it from 130mph plus. Those said brakes , a bit grabby , if not careful, wanted to catapult you over the top at speeds less than 30mph. Did I mention the word "beast". :devilish:
 
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Heavier cars have stronger/heavier bearings, shafts, brakes etc. That's why they're heavier, even for EVs.
 
I had a Civic VTi, great engine, changed the cam to the higher power mode around 6,500 rpm and then went on to redline at 8,000 rpm, I think they let it rev to 9,000 rpm in the S2000
The S2000 had the F20C engine, and did (does still, I have one) indeed red line at 9000. When it was made it had higher piston speeds than the F1 cars at the time. I think the older non-turbo VTi's had a B series engine?
 
Talking weight reduction (always the best option to improve performance IMHO), has anyone tried removing the rear seats? The workshop procedure says to remove the two clips under the seat base (item 1 in the image) which is a bit vague and when I took a look, I couldn't see them so didn't want to risk breaking anything:
rearseat.png
 
Talking weight reduction (always the best option to improve performance IMHO), has anyone tried removing the rear seats? The workshop procedure says to remove the two clips under the seat base (item 1 in the image) which is a bit vague and when I took a look, I couldn't see them so didn't want to risk breaking anything:
View attachment 33516
You just pull the seat up and it releases from the clips. Issue is, it's quite a hard pull that's required. Like really hard!

Then you need to make sure that when it does release you don't pull the seat up too far as there are two cables that are attached to the underside of the seat (one on each side).

To fully remove the seat you need to unplug the cables from the socket in the seat.
It's a real PITA :oops:

How do I know? You need to do this to fit nice seat covers...

That being said, the rear bench seat is not really heavy at all.

Removing it doesn't reduce the weight by much. Certainly not worth the effort if that's what you are trying to achieve.
 
You just pull the seat up and it releases from the clips. Issue is, it's quite a hard pull that's required. Like really hard!
Thanks for the detailed description. I was more interested in knowing as it's the first step before removing the seat backs also (which seem a bit heavier). As you said, probably not going to make a significant difference, but handy to know the process. 👍
 
...I was more interested in knowing as it's the first step before removing the seat backs also (which seem a bit heavier)
You don't need to remove the bench seat to remove the seat backs.
You need to remove the left (dual seat back) side first and then you can remove the right (single seat) seat back.
There's a video that shows the process linked here somewhere... But I've only got my phone with me and can't find the link right now... Soz
 
Have a look at part 3 of the rear camera fitting video from this post.

I think I found that at least the small seat back just lifted from side, then with some wiggle it slid off the peg where the seat backs meet.
 

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