MG ZS EV - Faults cannot drive...

[Lovemyev]

I have a choice of a courtesy through the AA but I want MG to supply one longer then 3 days, it's an utter joke, thanks for everyone to helping to get this resolved, don't really get much from the dealers/MG UK

Good luck and please keep us posted on your progress.
It’s not a good start to your ownership, but I am sure it will get sorted !.
The dealer can upload the data pack from the car, to the Tech Team at MG.
This should identify the problem and offer a resolution to the issue at the same time.
Tell the dealer to “Fix it, or keep it - Do NOT offer the car for return unless it is 100% fit for purpose !”.
I guess they will have it for a few days now.
They should have a EV demo car surely ?.

 

[Paulie68]

Looking at the simplest possible answer, your 12v battery has failed and as a result is unable to initiate the car properly. First job is to get a voltmeter on this, then load test it, you'd hope this was the first thing done, but dealer incompetence seems to beggar belief!

I very much suspect the battery has gone completely flat during the long transit at sea, then been quick charged by the port ops for unloading, then again by the dealer during PDI. As is often the case, it's then failed shortly after all this abuse.

Hope I'm right, as if so, it's the least hassle answer to your problems! Do let us know the outcome.

 

[Cocijo]

Yes - I did think 12v battery issue. I‘ve said before that I think that the way the start button is set up can also contribute to unnecessary drain on the 12v battery. I’d like to see the start button removed in the next version of the car - just press brake and it boots up - far less room for error and 12v battery issues.

 

[jamesie]

Given the raft of owners having 12v battery problems is there an argument for replacing the 12v with a new one at purchase. Seems a little crazy but may avoid breakdowns. Wondering if I should do this myself?

 

[Kithmo]

Yes, I let the switch go into amber then I push the brake down and hold and press start again for it to try go to ready mode hoping it'll run, I thought the errors were preventing me from going in running mode?

It sounds like you're going out of sequence there. You don't need to let the switch go to amber, you just press and hold the brake pedal first, then press the start button once to start up.

 

[Kithmo]

Yes - I did think 12v battery issue. I‘ve said before that I think that the way the start button is set up can also contribute to unnecessary drain on the 12v battery. I’d like to see the start button removed in the next version of the car - just press brake and it boots up - far less room for error and 12v battery issues.

But how do you turn it off if there's no button ?
I think the op's 12v is too low because he has the lights on and is not in Ready mode, if he turns off the lights it may regain enough to start it (which is probably what happened at the dealers).

 

[Cocijo]

But how do you turn it off if there's no button ?
I think the op's 12v is too low because he has the lights on and is not in Ready mode, if he turns off the lights it may regain enough to start it (which is probably what happened at the dealers).

Turn it off by selecting P getting out and locking the car

 

[Lovemyev]

A 12 volt battery check is the FIRST place to go !.
Don’t dive in and overthink it.
Unless the 12 volt battery has completely co-lapsed, then a slow recharge should bring it back to life.
The low SOC of a 12 volt battery will throw up a multitude of error messages on the dash.
This happened to my daughters Fiat 500 Abarth about 3 weeks ago.
Completely out of the blue, the car failed to start after a visit to the supermarket.
Nothing at the key and every warning light came on !.
Booster jump pack got her home.
Some of the cells in the battery just co-lapsed without an warning .
New battery installed, all warning messages disappeared !.
Car is still fine after three weeks.
The car is almost five years old, but has only covered 10,000 miles.
A lot of short trips and a lot of battery usage to start the car is the likely suspect in her case.
My guess is that if the dealer checks the OP’s 12 volt battery and it is flat, they will charge it and do a drop check on it the following day.
Or, just replace it period !.

 

[jase25555]

the AA did all the necessary checks of checking and the battery was reading 12v but in the car it wasn't. The car is now back with the dealer, with images and video sent to investigate further. I hope they can extend the courtesy car the AA gave me free of charge. I've asked the dealer to ask MG UK

 

[Mgzs ev]

Are you keeping your foot on the brake?

yes and after a few days the brake pedal is difficult to press so press firmly and it goes on ready

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[JodyS21]

I think I'd be very tempted to return it for a full refund. Then order another one.
I hate to say this, but given what we hear on here a lot, once you get a dodgy car it can be a nightmare experience!

 

[Kithmo]

I'm still puzzled by the "I let the switch go amber" bit ?

 

[Dave53]

I have a choice of a courtesy through the AA but I want MG to supply one longer than 3 days, it's an utter joke, thanks for everyone to help to get this resolved, don't really get much from the dealers/MG UK

Looks to me like you have a faulty 12-volt battery or needs to be charged to full power with an external battery charger to show fully charged 6 bars before the faults will clear, or you have a faulty DC to DC charger, I noticed in your pictures that the car lights are showing as being on that along with the rest of the 12v electrics won't take long to drain the battery to below the required power, I then believe the 12v battery ( I bought an independent car battery booster and keep it in the boot for that reason) must be independently charged to full power to be able to fully start up the non-12v power systems as the 12v runs the computer system that kicks them all in including the DC to DC charger.( this could explain why it was ok when it got to the dealers by the AA batteries often gain a bit of power from resting possibly enough to get rid of the fault lights, But then again who knows, will be interesting to see what MG's angle is on this. please update with their thoughts and remedies

 

[yosadistic]

Any updates on this? I have the same thing.

 

[Chrispydoc]

If it had been me, I would have plugged my (regular) battery charger direct onto the 12 volt..overnight. Just like on an ICE car.

Its just a dumb computer....if it thinks the 12 volt is too low...it just won't work. (in my opinion)

There is a common link here..new cars not yet used much, not got into a regular schedule of use and charging.....probably through 'standing' at the dealers.

I hope you soon get sorted.

My car frequently shows up all sorts of error messages..when I am in a rush to start it. I calm down, switch it off, foot on Brake and work my way through the starting again....it always works.

 

[yosadistic]

If it had been me, I would have plugged my (regular) battery charger direct onto the 12 volt..overnight. Just like on an ICE car.

Its just a dumb computer....if it thinks the 12 volt is too low...it just won't work. (in my opinion)

There is a common link here..new cars not yet used much, not got into a regular schedule of use and charging.....probably through 'standing' at the dealers.

I hope you soon get sorted.

My car frequently shows up all sorts of error messages..when I am in a rush to start it. I calm down, switch it off, foot on Brake and work my way through the starting again....it always works.

Had to go to work so no time to charge the 12v, happend this morning, after i charged it to 100% yesterday, i top it up every second day the HV battery so i thought it charges the 12v also. I have 20 km per day to work (10 km one way) on a 90km/h speed

 

[Chrispydoc]

I am not an expert on how the 12 volt normally receives its charge.....but I do remember going through a similar thing when I first got my car 2 years ago.

It can't do any harm to charge the 12 volt direct and may solve the problem.

 

[Lovemyev]

There is a common link here..new cars not yet used much, not got into a regular schedule of use and charging.....probably through 'standing' at the dealers.

This is very true @Chrispydoc .
We also have to remember it takes almost three months for the car to get shipped over into the U.K. also.
Yes - The car has a device fitted in transport that SHOULD prevent power being drawn from the 12 volt battery on route.
But as soon as the car docks, the transport device is removed from the 12 volt battery of the car.
From this point, the car is fully powered from the 12 volt battery and has to fend for itself !.
It only takes one of the many transport team teams to leave the door slightly ajar and this will drain the 12 volt battery in NO time at all !.
I am sure they have booster packs for this sort of occasion, but jumping the car to start, is nowhere CLOSE to the car receiving the full charge that the 12 volt battery really requires.

 

[yosadistic]

Update:
After charging the 12V battery for 24h (did not charge to full) i put it in the car, now it will not start at the first button press when i start with the foot on the pedal. First button press goes into power up and checks mode, second press gets the car in "Ready". Did not want to start new post so i hope i can use this one.

 

[Gomev]

Update:
After charging the 12V battery for 24h (did not charge to full) i put it in the car, now it will not start at the first button press when i start with the foot on the pedal. First button press goes into power up and checks mode, second press gets the car in "Ready". Did not want to start new post so i hope i can use this one.

Silly question, but was your foot firmly on the brake, and stayed there, when you pressed the Start button the first time ?
What you have described happened, would suggest not.