MG4 Trophy Speaker Upgrade

The front and rear are 6.5. Not sure what size the tweeters are. I used Vibe Slick 6C-V7 components. What's important is you choose 4ohm speakers. The Vibes are up to 90W RMS so if you pick within that range it should be ok for the factory head unit. For reference the factory speaks are 25W RMS. You will need spacers to mount the speakers, there's 3D prints available for the Vibes, you could base the screw mounts off those and adjust the height to suit.

Most people have only connected the Vibe crossover to the tweeters (it doesn't work without) and the woofer is just connected to the factory wiring. Seems to sound ok. Maybe the woofer is still receiving highs as well. I am getting a Match M 5.4DSP installed soon, and will be using it's active crossovers.


They should work. They are 75W RMS and 4ohm, mounting depth 63mm. The Vibe Slick 6C-V7 is 90W RMS 4ohm, mounting depth 61mm.
"25W RMS" - is that a typo or seriously factory speakers are just 25W RMS ? damn... that's cheap...

Im getting Orion speakers rated at 350W RMS (Orion XTR 6.5" XTX65) - Sounds like im getting an enormous jump in quality here.

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Hmm what about mounting depth? I see in your comment OEM speakers mounting depth is 63mm? these Orion says it's 2.96" which is 75mm... Can i use original spacers like the video owner or what can i get to space it properly?
 
"25W RMS" - is that a typo or seriously factory speakers are just 25W RMS ? damn... that's cheap...

Im getting Orion speakers rated at 350W RMS (Orion XTR 6.5" XTX65) - Sounds like im getting an enormous jump in quality here.
Off a normal car supply you can only get 25W, you have to step up the supply rails to get higher

Do you really think you can stand to sit in a car with 350W/700W RMS on mids? (Would guess they're 350W each), that'll be about 140db by their spec. On bass that's fine but not mids/tops

What amp are you going to drive them with? The 1kW RMS amps I used to use are fused at 100A.
Car battery & DC/DC converter able to handle the extra load?
I used to uprate the alternator but not sure if you can upgrade the 400V - 13.8V DC-DC converter.
 
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Off a normal car supply you can only get 25w, you have to step up the supply rails to get higher

Do you really think you can stand to sit in a car with 350w/700w RMS on mids? (Would guess they're 350w each), that'll be about 140db by their spec
On bass that's fine but not mids/tops

What amp are you going to drive them with? The 1kw RMS amps I used to use are fused at 100A
Car battery & DC/DC converter able to handle the extra load?
I used to uprate the alternator but not sure if you can upgrade the 400v - 13.8v DC/DC converter
Its 350W RMS as max... But that doesn't mean I'll use the max (and its not recommended - lifespan related)

And no, im not going to add any amps or subwoofer for now.

But I may do it in the future so these are there to be upgrade some day.

I've always added amplifiers and components and subwoofers to my previous cars - but i never used them at max power.

I like quality of sounds. Not high decibels.

I have autism. And a fine ear for sonic details.

So i aim for that - catch and playback of all hertz as possible - 140 Hz to 12 kHz is not a bad range for these speakers.

I wonder what the oem speaker specs really are from these MG4 so i can compare... But they do sound very cheap to my ears.

I enjoy electronic music. From videogames to House music. Alternative rock and other genres that uses electric sounds (electric guitar, synthesizers, etc)

We will see how I feel the difference once I install them..I can tell by now that tweeters are trash lol so I'm not even talking about those.

These I got from Orion have an integrated crossover and I have good faith on these.

P.S. I have to admit I'm worried about adding a connection to the battery to power an amp... Or opening the infotainment module and alter the cable's connections...

Considering this is a 100% electric car.

Is there any deficiency or issues I must be aware of?
 
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Tbh it's my first electric cut can't see there being any issues as long as you keep to the LV side

My last 2 cars were mainly Focal drive units, tweeters, 3", 5¼" up front, 4" coax in the back, the I had some locally made 6"x9" subs & 2x12" infrabass, 10Hz-35kHz.
Back had active xovers, front had passive
Main feed to the amps had a 500A fuse, had to get 3x 6x9's reconed & 4x 12's reconed but that was whilst fine tuning & playing a little too low.

Gone are the days where I opened the OEM headunit & soldered a opamp buffer circuit to the output of the onboard DAC to give line level outputs before the filtration/power amp circuit.
 
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Still wondering if I can find an auto audio installer who could upgrade the SE speakers. Mind you, I can hear detail in certain recordings in my MG4 that I couldn't hear in my Golf, simply because of the lack of engine noise.
 
"25W RMS" - is that a typo or seriously factory speakers are just 25W RMS ? damn... that's cheap...
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Here's a photo of the original speakers.

I don't like being destructive with original car parts so I 3D printed some spacers.


 
I like quality of sounds. Not high decibels
My main gripe with the factory sound was clarity. Changing just the tweeters helps significantly.

The factory head unit is tuned specifically to the average quality audio components. When you start changing those, adding new door speakers, sound dampening etc, the response is no longer flat, and there is only so much you can do to correct this with the 5 band EQ. This is where adding a DSP helps. The Match amp/DSP I installed has a 32 band EQ so the new speakers could be tuned more accurately. You can also tweak time alignment to change the sound stage to suit the driver, which for me is 90% of the time.

The last consideration for audio fidelity is your sound source. How are you playing your music?
 
Or opening the infotainment module and alter the cable's connections...
The other good thing about the Match amp/DSP, there is a harness available for the MG4 so you dont need to cut any cables. Other manufacturers might follow suit, I haven't looked since I had mine installed earlier this year
 
My main gripe with the factory sound was clarity. Changing just the tweeters helps significantly.

The factory head unit is tuned specifically to the average quality audio components. When you start changing those, adding new door speakers, sound dampening etc, the response is no longer flat, and there is only so much you can do to correct this with the 5 band EQ. This is where adding a DSP helps. The Match amp/DSP I installed has a 32 band EQ so the new speakers could be tuned more accurately. You can also tweak time alignment to change the sound stage to suit the driver, which for me is 90% of the time.

The last consideration for audio fidelity is your sound source. How are you playing your music?
I use YouTube Music a lot. And also mp3 ive compiled over the years at 192 kbps rate.

So its via Bluetooth sometimes, usb cable other times (with android auto). And also usb pen drive.

How can i learn more about this DSP ? How is it installed, and is it an easy job for these mg4 with no risk?

As i mentioned earlier... I dont want to screw my car investment by "adding" new electric components.. EVs are relative new so there's risk involved.

Someone above even mentioned someone who works In audio not wanting to do work on these EV

25 rms is a joke.

I can forsee an improvement just by changing the oem speakers and tweeters without anything else.

Time will tell.

And yes, i am curious to see any specs on this infotainment. Whats the power output and audio features from the module behind the glove box.

hopefully someone can enlighten us.
 
The other good thing about the Match amp/DSP, there is a harness available for the MG4 so you dont need to cut any cables. Other manufacturers might follow suit, I haven't looked since I had mine installed earlier this year
Can you link me to this DSP with mg4 compatible harness so i can check it out?

So far any issues with your car consumption and errors? Or it works as if nothing is added?
 
25 rms is a joke.

I can forsee an improvement just by changing the oem speakers and tweeters without anything else.

And yes, i am curious to see any specs on this infotainment. Whats the power output and audio features from the module behind the glove box.
If the speakers are 25W RMS then I'd say the amp has 12V supply rails so outputs will be 18-25W per channel.
"Edit that would be for 8Ω speakers, just noticed the one pictured is 4Ω which on 12v could theoretically give 35-50w, if it's 2Ω stable it could have a theoretical output of 70w"

Generally higher wattage speakers due to the construction to allow them to handle higher power (thicker coils, stiffer suspension etc adds mass & rigidity) they're less sensitive.

If you swap speakers from 25W power handling to say 250W power handling on the same amp you could find the max volume before distortion has dropped by 10+dB.

You might prefer the sound but be disappointed at how loud it can go.

PS I generally have the volume at 15-20, about 23 the distortion is too high for me.

I may or may not fit my Focal mid tops but I'd be looking at amping it if I do.
 
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Hi. I have 4 x Pioneer TS-D65F D that handle up to 90 watts RMS (270 watts peak power) each. Can i use them with MG4 without any sound distortion? or i need an aplifier? Thank you in advance.
 
I see in your comment OEM speakers mounting depth is 63mm? these Orion says it's 2.96" which is 75mm... Can i use original spacers like the video owner or what can i get to space it properly?
I think you would need spacers that are 8mm less than the original ones. You could get the 3D printed ones I linked earlier printed smaller. Find someone local they should be able to resize it
 
How can i learn more about this DSP ? How is it installed, and is it an easy job for these mg4 with no risk?
Why DSPs are worthwhile


This is the DSP, best to get power directly from the battery and use an online fuse, rather than tap power from the fusebox of the car. It is small and can be installed near the factory headunit. I had mine professionally installed and tuned. Tuning is probably the part with the steepest learning curve.


This harness allows plug and play installation of the DSP without cutting wires

 
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Can you link me to this DSP with mg4 compatible harness so i can check it out?

So far any issues with your car consumption and errors? Or it works as if nothing is added?
No errors or change in consumption. I even went on holiday for a month and came back and the battery was still on 80% as I left it, so there is no standby power draw either
 
Resize the 3d model? Or use as these models are made?
Resize the 3D model. Originally I suggested shortening by 8mm, but actually I think you might need to go the other way and add 8mm, seeing as your Orions need more depth than the original speakers. But then they might not allow the door trim to fit properly. Its hard to say...you might need to take the trim off and do a test fit.
 
Has anybody fitted the MG specific Bose tweeters yet? I want to upgrade the tweeters on my SR MG4.
The Bose tweeters are a direct fit a and around 50 euros including shipping.
But I can't find reviews or something...

Another option would be the Hertz C26 tweeter, a couple of guys on the German MG4 forum have installed those and they are pretty excited about it. They fit the housing of the current tweeter but I need to cut the wires. Price is around 66 euros including shipping.
 
Hi! Does anyone know the part number for the woofer connector? I only found the one for the tweeters but I would like to put the original plug for the doors' speakers too.
 

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