Coulomb
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- MG4 Trophy ER
That's at switch on. There is no problem there. The problem us when you want to stop the charge and it's drawing some 10A. If you happen to time it such that the contacts are opening right around a zero crossing (50 Hz AC crosses zero 100 times per second), then that's not too bad. But you could equally be opening the circuit when the current is near 14A. The peak of a 10A sine wave is ±(sqrt 2)*10 ≈ 14.14A.When the Shelly relay switches on the granny charger doesn't respond for 6 seconds, it then draws 7.3 watts for exactly 8 seconds and then draws the full 2.16 kW.
So I don't think the relay contacts are getting hammered.
If you always charge to 100% so that the car turns off the charge electronically, then there is no problem, provided that you allow enough time to ensure that the battery does get to 100%.
There will always be cases where the current gets interrupted, for example a blackout, the breaker trips, and so on. The on-board charger can handle a certain number of these, I don't have a feel for how many. It might be a hundred average events, it might be ten thousand. But if you sre regularly interrupting a charge on a timer, then you are reducing the life of the on-board charger. It will cost at least £1000, possibly double that or more, to have it replaced. Maybe you can get that done under warranty, maybe not. I think it's crazy to risk this, when there are usually alternatives.
If you are handy with power electronics, it might be a moderately inexpensive repair (the movistor costs only a few pounds, but when it becomes ineffective, something far more expensive dies). Few people do this sort of component level repair any more. And the information needed to aid such a repair, like a schematic diagram, is often hard to obtain.
It's a worry that so few people are aware of this problem. There are probably thousands of timers on EVSEs right now, and because the problem doesn't show up immediately, it's natural to assume that all is fine.